I belive i found the problem
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Postmaster
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From: STEPHENVILLE,TX!!!!!
tappet failure
tappet in the intake valve (the one that bent) is stuck as stuck can be, cant even dissasimble it. i looked closer at the pistons and there is a very very slight mark from a valve hitting it. the pistons in our trucks are very hard and the valves are too. and the tubes are mild steel. think when intake tube bent, it bent into the exaust vavle tube and thats what broke that. the tappet in the exaust tube is in serviceable condition. works just the way it should. id just replace them all if they wernt $45 a piece, cant get the camshaft follower guide till tommorow so im gonna pull all my tappets and clean and inspect them just to make sure i dont have another one about to do it again. Is there anything i need to to do thoose injectors while i have them out (execpt for sending them to swamp for a set of babies or 175's) havent decided on which ones yet....well my wallet has to recover from this first.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by barebackjake
tappet in the intake valve (the one that bent) is stuck as stuck can be, cant even dissasimble it. i looked closer at the pistons and there is a very very slight mark from a valve hitting it. the pistons in our trucks are very hard and the valves are too. and the tubes are mild steel. think when intake tube bent, it bent into the exaust vavle tube and thats what broke that. the tappet in the exaust tube is in serviceable condition. works just the way it should. id just replace them all if they wernt $45 a piece, cant get the camshaft follower guide till tommorow so im gonna pull all my tappets and clean and inspect them just to make sure i dont have another one about to do it again. Is there anything i need to to do thoose injectors while i have them out (execpt for sending them to swamp for a set of babies or 175's) havent decided on which ones yet....well my wallet has to recover from this first.
Get new o-ring sets for the injectors. Last I heard they were in the neighborhood of $14.00 per injector from Ford. A past post also stated: "Don't bother looking around, you won't save that much, and with Ford you know that you are getting the right type of rubber in the o-rings."
Also make absolutely positively sure that the new lifters (you'll probably have to buy a whole set) slide right into thier bores without any resistance other than oil viscosity. If you pull them halfway back up they should slide right down again. Absolutly no hangups anywhere. If all that checks out you should be able to get the truck back on the road again.
God Bless your efforts.
Dan.
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From: Cabot, Arkansas
Is there anything i need to to do thoose injectors while i have them out
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by barebackjake
checked valve guides and valves everything is looking good there also. gonna put it back togethor tommorow
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by cookie88
Definitely do the o-rings. Make sure you let them sit for a while after you put the new ones on so they can shrink back up a little....makes them easier to get back in the hole. Also, a little engine oil mixed with some petroleum jelly make for a super slippery installation lube.
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From: STEPHENVILLE,TX!!!!!
yeah i use red diesel to leak check the head cause it has the uv dye in it around here so you can shine a black light down the ports and it stands out like a sore thumb. it sat overnight and not a drop went anywhere. valves slide in and out snugly not to tight not too loose and the feel the same as the other cylinders. put machinist dye in the valve seats and spun them and they seat evenly. im just **** about builing motors i guess thats my problem. if i wasnt on a time restraint with this i would have the head torn through but the diesel machine shop around here thats worth a damn is 4 weeks out.
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From: Ridgecrest, CA
I'm just a shadetree mech (take this with a grain-o-salt), are the lifters solid or hydraulic, is there a valve lash adjustment possible. Too much gap could beat on the rod and cause premature failure. Or better/worse, the lifter failed (if hydraulic) and performed the same damage. Let's not forget the meticulous factory assembly (they never goof).
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by barebackjake
yeah i use red diesel to leak check the head cause it has the uv dye in it around here so you can shine a black light down the ports and it stands out like a sore thumb. it sat overnight and not a drop went anywhere. valves slide in and out snugly not to tight not too loose and the feel the same as the other cylinders. put machinist dye in the valve seats and spun them and they seat evenly. im just **** about builing motors i guess thats my problem. if i wasnt on a time restraint with this i would have the head torn through but the diesel machine shop around here thats worth a damn is 4 weeks out.
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From: STEPHENVILLE,TX!!!!!
that head is a bunch of bad words to get back in. im on my second head gasket on thoose trucks you have to put the head in with one head stud in the head. you get in in there you wont get head stud in there. had head stud zipped tyed up but it slid down on me and tore the head gasket. regrouping and trying to figure out how to get the damn thing in. dosnt help how heavy the damn head is, back to work i get.
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From: Albuquerque NM
Just a question to you all, do you think it could be possible that he lost oil pressure first causing that lifter to seize up in the lifter hole and when the piston tapped the valve it broke the push rod and freed up the lifter and then the cam lobe spit the lifter out? Just something to think about because I am with you all that I just don’t see a push rod just getting bend with out some kind of interference.
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From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by realhp
Just a question to you all, do you think it could be possible that he lost oil pressure first causing that lifter to seize up in the lifter hole and when the piston tapped the valve it broke the push rod and freed up the lifter and then the cam lobe spit the lifter out? Just something to think about because I am with you all that I just don’t see a push rod just getting bend with out some kind of interference.
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