When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
My a/c has gone out on my Ranger. It still uses the old r-12 system. I had a machanic check it out and he gave me a cost of 1200$ to have it retrofitted. (I think he was trying to scam me.) Does anyone know of an average cost to retrofit it for the a/c system? Or does anyone have any advice on how I should go about handling this situation?
Thanks,
Aaron
Just been there, done that. The swap is a snap. There are a couple things you should know b4 you start. A std retro from a reputable shop is abou 350.00. (I live in Canada, that's Cdn pesso, not US). I chose to take the task on myself. Chances are, if you're low on charge, the cycling valve has kicked out. The valve is located on your receiver drier that is right at the passenger side firewall. Disconnect the wires from the cycling valve and jump them with a piece of wire. Turn your AC on high and see if it blows cold air. Jumping the wires will cause your compressor to run. If it blows cold, the cycling switch is hooped (about 50.00). If it does'nt blow cold, then convert to R134a. If your mechanical, do it yourself, save some $. Get the system evacuated to remove ALL the R12. Pick up a retro kit from an auto supply store, along with an A/C hose tool, rec/. Installing the kit is pretty easy, did it in about 2 hours. Yank off the compressor and get most of the old oil out, and fill it with Ester oil, about 3 1/2 oz. Blow out the rest of the components with compressed air and a little acetone (in the reverse direction of refrigerant flow) to get the crud and oil out. Also replace the expansion valve (inside the bottom line of the evaporator) and the receiver drier. Make sure to lube all the new O-rings when you install them, and clean all the fittings. A clean system is an efficient system. Wehn you finished skinning your nuckles, take it to a shop and get it evacuated again and charged. SHAAZZZZAM, cold air outa your vents.
Before you go thru the hassle, figure out why your system leaked down. Make sure the system holds a vacuum when you get it sucked out the first time. If it doesn't replace all leaky components. I was lucky, an o-ing puked and I had to replace it anyways.
Hey Rick,
I really appriciate the advice. I am anyways srapped for cash so this will help me out a lot. If the switch is out and I go to an auto store and pick up the parts to have it retrofitted. Is it just a kit and hoses or is there anything else I need to purchase as well? Also do you happen to know what those kits might cost (about)? Thanks again for the help.
Thanks,
Aaron
Your vintage system is a perfect target for the 'black death' syndrome which affected a bunch of mid 90's FoMoCo products. The compressor is most likely a FS10. They had teflon coated pistons. THe teflon wore off and allowed the aluminum pistons to wear on the cylinder bores forming powdered aluminum/oil mixture that floats around the system and blocks refrigerant flow. Dead. Now for the repair process.
The compressor is most likely toast. THe condenser cannot be flushed out completely, it WILL block and cook a new compressor. THe accumulator on the firewall will have crud in it, and the orifice tube in the line from the condenser to the evaporator (or at the evap, don't remember) will be plugged with crud. The fix? New accumulator/low side line, condenser, compressor, and hi-side line and orifice(possibly the compressor discharge line if it has a muffler). Sorry, but if you try to piece part it with black death, all you will do is end up wasting money over and over again. IMHO, do not get a reman compressor from Everco or Murray or Four Siezens, as available from PepBoys and the others. Please, don't wast your money, get a Delco or APCO. They actually replace parts in the compressor rather than just put a new seal on and repaint...
Check http://www.aircondition.com/ ... straight to the board
http://www.ackits.com/forum/index.cfm for another board.
They all say there to avoid the above mentioned rebuilts. Check out the explanation of black death on ackits board somewhere.
I have bought from both acsource.com and ackits.com and was VERY pleased with the price and customer service.