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1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Transmission woes

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Old Nov 1, 2004 | 06:46 PM
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Question Transmission woes

Ok, so I've gotten my FMX mounted in my '65. Here's the issue: what type of sadist SOB designed that tourque converter with studs that pass through the flex plate instead of bolts? Moreover, the inspection cover will allow you to put the nut on the stud, but there's no cover on the bellhousing that can be removed to rotate the torque converter, so it's hard to line those studs up with the corresponding holes in the flex plate. Here's the question: Is there an easy trick to get those two things (the studs and the holes) to line up? Right now the trans is held up in place by the dowels on the back of the engine, two long bolts into the back of the engine, and the cross-member. I thought about getting some insanely long bolts, threading them through the bellhousing and into the block to support the transmission, then sliding the trans back on the bolts. Then I could line up the studs and holes by sight, and slide everything back into place. Is that the correct way to do it?

On a related note, the part of the trans where the speedo cable screws on is missing. I can feel the gear on the tailshaft though a large threaded hole in the side of the case. Does the speedo gear fill that entire hole or is it merely attached to a "sending unit" type deal?

One last question: does anyone know of a place on the net where someone has scanned and posted a copy of an owners manual for the '61-'67 F-series? I'd very much like to know how to work some of the buttons on the dash (heat, vent, etc).

Thanks guys.
 
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Old Nov 1, 2004 | 07:08 PM
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Fords have used that mounting of the converter to flywheel for ages. Just make sure the converter is seated all the way into the tranny and line up the studs by sight. I used to turn the flywheel so that 2 of the hole were visable at the botton. Make sure the converter studs are in the same place and slide it together. If the studs are inline with the holes, you should be able to bolt the bellhousing to the engine. Loosely attach the nuts and move the flywheel until you see the next stud, Repeat the same process. When you have the nuts on all the studs, tighten them all up to specs. Do not use any flat or lockwashers under the nuts. They will interfere with turning the engine over. They make a tool to hook on the ring gear to help turn the engine. Just be patient.

Barry
 
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Old Nov 1, 2004 | 07:50 PM
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Patience, what's that? lol. When I do get everything lined up, what's the tourque specs for the converter nuts?
 
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Old Nov 2, 2004 | 06:14 AM
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Neil, All of the flexplate holes will mate up at the same time. With one hole and bolt straight down gently guide it in place moving the t/q as needed. Once it is hung on the dowels you should be home free. We always use a big pull handle on the driveshaft nut to turn the engine the quarter turnes until you make it around. Sorry I'm not much for using a torque wrench, I tighten them with a 3/8" drive ratchet and put the cover on.

Hope you have it all connected by now.

John
 
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Old Nov 4, 2004 | 03:05 PM
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bertha66

One thing to remember on those tourgue converters is that there is a drian pulg in it and a hole that lines up with it in the flexplate.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2004 | 08:12 PM
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Got it all done, except for the fact that I forgot to remove the old hoses from the trans cooler, and, of course, the upper hose clamp's screwhead is pointing up. guess i'll have to drill a hole in the floor so i can pass a screwdriver on down to loosen the clamp. The little access door doesn't quite line up.....Unless anyone has any suggestions.
 
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Old Nov 5, 2004 | 08:16 PM
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Is the clamp the type you can put a socket on? if so use a 1/4 inch ratchet and socket.

Barry
 
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Old Nov 6, 2004 | 03:10 AM
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or use a magnetic screw driver bit in a 1/4" socket or ratchet wrench
 
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Old Nov 6, 2004 | 05:05 PM
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Nearest I can feel, it's a screw-type with a phillips head screw. Not exactly sure because there's not much room up there to work.
 
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Old Nov 6, 2004 | 07:21 PM
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Is it a flat band type clamp with the worm gear? If so you can try to cut it off with a pair of diagonal wire cutters. All depends on how much room you have to get the cutters in. I've cut them off and then opened up the clamp to separate the band, slipped it over the hose or tube and reassembled it and made sure it was pointed in the direction I wanted. Just don't cut the hose if you want to save it.

Barry
 
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