maybe you were referring to the bypass valve vac. line and i just didn't clue in- plug it

 

Hello.

When you say purg canisters, do you mean the carbon canisters, cause that is where the vacume line was connected, coming from a tree on the intake manifold, now for that tree I guess I would plug that also?

Thanks for the info very helpful!

Al

 

The carbon cannister is supposed to absorb fuel vapor from the gas tank. It is connected via a vacuum line to the output solenoid operated valve. The input of the valve is in turn connected to the intake manifold "tree".

The idea is that gasoline that evaporates from your tank while the truck is parked is absorbed by the carbon cannister. The vapors are purged from the cannister under control of the computer, once conditions are suitable. The vapors are burned in the engine, resulting in reduction in VOC release and a slight improvement in fuel mileage.

In your zeal to butcher the emission controls, you probably removed the cannister purge valve along with the air pump control valves. This is a shame, because the carbon cannister doesn't reduce engine performance and isn't in the way for any vehicle service. You don't want to just route the vacuum line straight from the tree to the cannister without the valve, because your idle mixture control will be upset.

If you don't connect the vacuum line at all, the charcoal in the cannister will load up with fuel vapors and be unable to store any more. Now when you park the truck in the hot sun, fuel vapor will be released through the top of the cannister into the engine compartment. Tell your buddies to be careful smoking around the front of your truck.

 

yeah i thought thats what you were talking about -- yes plug that back in to the canister it has nothing to do with removing the smog pump - it just probably got bumped off in the process somewhere .you want to keep that canister working. and it sounds like you removed the purge can valve - put it back on and just plug the hose that went to the air bypass valve if don't have one - get a haynes or whatever repair manual and it will show you which is which or if your emmissions decal is still under the hood try that - but you'll probably need the book - you do need that (purge-"charcoal" ) canister to function or you'll get an overload of fuel vapor the can sends vapours back to the tank .if you need to - search Rockauto.com and they have pictures of those parts .

 

please let me know the best way to remove the tubes from the back of the heads on my 90 f250 5.8 351 4wd, they are rusted and leaking and i do not want to replace, what a bad design

 

i hear ya on the bad desighn thing -the concept is just to get more money out of your pocket ,tubes rust valves rust and when the damn thing quits on you it plugs the cats and .....more money ..lol


as far as those tubes bieng rusted - best option woud be to find a decent set at the wreckers and replace it -then continue on from there - another option would be -if you can salvage any of the pipe -take it to a welder who does brazing,he can simply pinc the tubes off braze them over and your done ..

personally i would like to have them removed altogether myself - i've never taken it that far ,i guess i was lucky and my tubes weren't so bad ... a few people i know have had ideas about it like finding a freeze plug that has the screw thru the center and a plate that catches behind so you can snug it up good -that might be something you want to throw at a mechanic or a good parts guy - it is a fairly common thing for people to have these systems removed so there are alot of knowledgeable mechanics out there and i'll bet there are just as many different way's to do it . the most common way is as i mentioned above about brazing them over although in your case it sounds like you need a raplacement tube first .... post back if you have any other questions i'm glad to help out ..

 

Haha! That's absurd.

I bet none of them will want to take any of the emissions equipment off for you unless you are their best friend. The fines for doing so if they were to get caught are tremendous.

 

The fewer live brain cells you have in your head, the less clean air you need to breath, everything works-out in the end.

 

I agree with you russt.

Sounds like we have some smog equipment activists here. haha. The more garbage they put on these engines makes most people more dependent on someone else to track down problems, so yes, it is a way of getting more of their money. I know how much nicer it is to work on an EFI engine bay that has been "cleaned up."

I removed the smog system on my 5.0 Mustang and I know it helped 'er out. Has ran great for the past 7 years without it and better mileage too. I've increased 9mpg on the highway from removing this crap and adding performance parts. I know this is a different computer system, etc., but that convinced me of how this emission crap doesn't help me and my vehicle. Anyone who thinks guys like me are destroying the planet's air can do their part by selling their truck and start pedeling their bike around. This point of view is not well-founded since less gas is being burned.

Now my '88 F150 (300 I6) which I recently bought, has a short belt bypassing the pump. Apparently the pump froze up on the last owner. Runs good for me without it. I think I'll start whipping the rest of the system off here.

 

I'm sure Ford spent much more money developing the smog equipment than we will ever pay to repair the systems, so the reasoning that smog equipment is just to get more money out of the customer is absurd. Ford created these devices to meet Federal Government emissions mandates, not as a way to get more money from the consumer - that's ridiculous. All this "garbage" was also used on carbureted engines, and was much more unreliable on those engines. With computer controls, many instances of failure set codes in the computer to aid in diagnosis.

I haven't said anything about whether I agree or not with removing smog equipment, so don't label me as an activist. I think we as consumers should be able to do anything to our vehicles that would increase gas mileage without increasing emissions. Which could include removing smog equipment. But a properly functioning emissions system will not lose much if any horsepower over something with out it. I just don't agree with your resoning as to why the equipment is there to begin with.

FordGP, did you take the emissions equipment off before or after the modifications?

 

You're right...to meet gov't mandates. Our gov'ts red tape is so thick they can't do anything efficiently though. It seems they put a lot of things in place to quiet the squeaky wheels, but really make no sense. I'm no expert of vehicle emission systems, but I know that not everything they do is well-founded. My experience has been that these systems cause me more headaches, and possibly money. This is a side-effect that the gov't could care less about...just like the automakers, so long as we keep buying new vehicles. And since we do, and all new vehicles are increasingly complex, the consumers are more dependent on dealerships, mechanics, etc. You're also right that a *properly functioning system doesn't create a lot of drag on the motor, but these systems include many parts, therefore increasing the chances for a part to go bad, then increasing your options for finding the problem. ...But, every little bit helps when you're trying to make more power.

BTW, I wasn't targeting you EPNCSU2006, or trying to offend anyone. To answer your question, I removed the smog equipment early on..after a few mods, so I know most of the gains made were not from this removal by itself. Benefits have been weight loss and rotational drag (both HP losses), along with the largest benefit IMO: a simplified engine bay.

 

No offense taken. It seems like all fords from this time period had some pretty heavy duty smog equipment to meet the standards - just about everything has multiple cats, and a smog pump. I don't know what the rationale was behind this, but it got them through the emissions tests. Again, I'm all for things that will increase fuel mileage and efficiency. With a properly functioning cat and a well tuned engine, there shouldn't be much need for air injection. It's mostly for cold startups anyway.

 

I have been going though the threads and reading a few and I guess I must be the only one that had just the opposite happen.. One year several years back I had the smog pump go bad twice in a six month period.. I removed it, rechecked all of my setting and adjusted the carb and lost 2mpg.. Nothing would bring it back.. I changed plugs, wires etc.. I bought another pump and got the mileage back.. This is on my '87 4X4 with a 351W HO.. On the other hand a '79 Bronco I had with a 400M it made no difference..Go figure.. Have a good one..
The Thrillseeker