Boat trailering
What I have read about weight distribution set ups is they interfere with the surge brake accuators on the tongue of the boat. Most folks I know pulling 24-28 footers use the same set up as mine.
Hope this helps
ceg4
Searay was one of the two boats we considered, real nice boat. I was also stupid getting the factory hitch, the 2003 Ford marketing brochure stated it was a 12,500 lb
hitch and did not specify only if you had WD. You brought up a good point about using WD with surge brakes. What kind of hitch did you purchase? We live in Ky. and like traveling to the many lakes in this state. Have any good info to share hauling this size boat (27 ft. Crownline).
Re-read your post, thought you said you got the factory hitch. It's rating plate says
15,000 lbs max towing with 1,500 lb tongue with WD
6,000 lb towing with 600 lb tongue
This hitch is one of my concerns, I don't think it will handle 10,500 lbs of pulling. I asked Ford this question and noboby seems to know the answer.
There are WD hitches made that are designed to work with surge brakes, but the chain/bar set-up is critical and can be tricky to get right.
Any chance of getting that rig weighed, so you can check gross and tongue weights? About 99% of guesstimates are on the low side.
Steve
1. The Ford factory hitch if used with WD will pull 15,000 lbs., 1500 lb tongue weight.
Without WD it drops to 6000 lbs. towing with a 600 lb. tongue weight. The Ford
brochure lists the hitch as an "option" and states "capable of towing 12,500 lbs" ,
12,500 lbs. is the "max" towing capacity of the truck, even though the hitch is
rated at 15,000 with WD. I bet a lot of owners have been deceived by this, Ford
dealers I talked to didn't understand this. It's a Class 3 hitch without WD, Class 4/5
with.
2. The boat trailer manufacturer recommended against a weight distribution hitch, the
reason being it prevents the surge brakes from working properly. The piston that
operates the surge action is located on the front part of the tongue. I asked about
putting electric brakes on it, and he again advised against this due the problems
they have seen in the past due to corrorsion, no electric-no brakes. Same with
sway control, it interferes with the surge action.
3. The boat manufacturer stated the boat with trailer will weigh 10,700 lbs with full
fuel, full fresh water tank, full holding tank, with the tongue of the trailer about
1,100 lbs. This 1,100 lbs. can be adjusted if I move the boat on the trailer and
adjust the bow stop on the trailer. You want to keep weight on the trailer tongue,
this helps prevent jack-knifing.
4. You need to keep in mind the GVWR (8800 lbs for my truck) and GCWR (20000 lbs
on my truck). I plan on taking my truck to a weigh station, this is a must before I
can calculate if I'm within safe limits.
5. Found only one hitch company making a hitch for these weights.
I hope I didn't confuse anyone about this, I do have a technical background and was totally confused at first. It's starting to make sense---- now that's pretty scary.
And yes, I do have a problem with spelling.
full gray water holding tank, 10,700 l
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Fulton makes electric brake kits for marine use, with coatings for fresh and salt water. I put a set on my single-axle boat trailer 3 years ago and I've had zero problems (I pull them apart every winter for inspection/cleaning/lube, which you should do also if your trailer has drum brakes). A flush kit for drum brakes is a good idea, even if your trailer is only dunked in fresh water.
Although installing electric brakes ain't cheap, it will eliminate the WD/surge problem.
Steve
Thanks for the info on Fulton, I'll check them out. The trailer has disc brakes on all four wheels. No salt on my boat, just pepper.
Boatman
You're right about the wimpy factory hitch. I was totally shocked when I looked at the rating plate, Ford should have explained the specs on their hitches a lot better, people are buying heavy duty trucks to haul more than groceries. I talked to the "Reese" hitch people and they have one called "Titan" 12,000 lbs weight carrying with 1,200 lbs tongue without WD. "Reese" and "Draw-tite" are owned by the same company now.
Disc brakes are way better than drums, so forget the swap to electrics. Instead, you might want to consider an electric/hydraulic actuator to replace the surge actuator. This type is activated by a controller in the cab, just like electric brakes (BrakeRite is one company that sells these). Another way to eliminate the WD/surge problem.
Steve



