2005 upfitter switches?
2005 upfitter switches?
Has anybody installed any aftermarket accessories with these switches yet? I am thinking of installing strobe lights in all four corners, with the power pack mounted inside of the cab. I would like to use the larger amp switches for power,if possible, but I cannot find any information as to where to hook them up.
I am a little confused here, I know there are fuses in the main panel, but where do you actually tie into?
Any help here would be greatly appreciated, I would really like to use those new switches!!!!!
Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!!!!
I am a little confused here, I know there are fuses in the main panel, but where do you actually tie into?
Any help here would be greatly appreciated, I would really like to use those new switches!!!!!
Thanks in advance!!!!!!!!!!!
Upfitter switches
You need to remove the 4 bolts (10mm) holding the fuse panel in place and drop it down to access the 4 upfitter switch wires located directly behind the fuse box. They are taped (white tape with AUX1, AUX2, AUX3, AUX4 printed on the tape) to a portion of the fuse box harness.
Aux-1 Circuit No 1936 wire color: Orange/Lt. Green [30amp]
Aux-2 Circuit No 1933 wire color: Orange [30amp]
Aux-3 Circuit No 1934 wire color: Orange/Yellow [10amp]
Aux-4 Circuit No 1935 wire color: Orange/Lt. Blue [10amp]
Aux-1 Circuit No 1936 wire color: Orange/Lt. Green [30amp]
Aux-2 Circuit No 1933 wire color: Orange [30amp]
Aux-3 Circuit No 1934 wire color: Orange/Yellow [10amp]
Aux-4 Circuit No 1935 wire color: Orange/Lt. Blue [10amp]
I used my Aux 1 yesterday, overall it was pretty easy to tap into once you drop the fuse panel. You'll also find 4 blunt cut wires through the firewall to help out too. Ford did right on this if you ask me. If it helps I have one of the files from ford on the upfitter switches on my website http://showland.org/f350/ I'll be posting some photos of the whole experience later today.
Hey Y-Guy. Don't have one yet, but plan on getting one with the switches. There is mention of two sets of wires. Is this so you can hook in the cab or outside when needed so you don't have to go through the firewall. Maybe I'm ignorant, could be stupid question, but I'm curious...
Taz
Taz
Taz, one set of wires comes off the back of the switches, you can the use the second set of wires to pass through the firewall to anything outside you may need to hook up. I put some wiring info and pics on my website if it helps, http://showland.org/f350/
Steve
Steve
Help!
I have tried a couple of dealers here in VA trying to order the upfitter switch and harness.
The dealers are telling me the part # 5C3Z 13D730 AAA doesn't exist. Nor have anyone at Ford been able to get the part # to order these.
It is ironic, because the part # for the harness: 5C3Z 14A303 AA is valid and they can order it.
Is anyone else have a problem getting these? Is this the correct part #?
Any thoughts??????
The dealers are telling me the part # 5C3Z 13D730 AAA doesn't exist. Nor have anyone at Ford been able to get the part # to order these.
It is ironic, because the part # for the harness: 5C3Z 14A303 AA is valid and they can order it.
Is anyone else have a problem getting these? Is this the correct part #?
Any thoughts??????
Trending Topics
presently run my aux fule pump off #4,, love it,,
looking for a nice light package to hang under the back end and will tie into #1,,
sure beats drilling a hole in the lower dash to install the old bat handle toggle swithches we all have used,,
enjoy,,
looking for a nice light package to hang under the back end and will tie into #1,,
sure beats drilling a hole in the lower dash to install the old bat handle toggle swithches we all have used,,
enjoy,,
Check out thread http://www.fordtruckenthusiasts.com/...d.php?t=282941 from a few weeks ago trencherman found a source for the parts
Sir,
I have just installed a XM Commander satellite radio into my 2005 F350 but I am having trouble locating an accessory power source. One that will cut power to the receiver when the ignition is in the off position. I think your post is exactly what I'm looking for. Could you please my confirm my understanding?
1. The upfitter fuses are factory pre-wired, stubbed and located above the fuse box ready to be spliced onto even if I do not have the dash mounted AUX switches?
2. For the satellite radio, does it matter whether I use a 10 or 30 amp connection?
3. May I use one of the factory installed, blunt, pass-through wires for the radio wire which XM requires a direct connection to the battery?
Thanks for your time,
Peter
I have just installed a XM Commander satellite radio into my 2005 F350 but I am having trouble locating an accessory power source. One that will cut power to the receiver when the ignition is in the off position. I think your post is exactly what I'm looking for. Could you please my confirm my understanding?
1. The upfitter fuses are factory pre-wired, stubbed and located above the fuse box ready to be spliced onto even if I do not have the dash mounted AUX switches?
2. For the satellite radio, does it matter whether I use a 10 or 30 amp connection?
3. May I use one of the factory installed, blunt, pass-through wires for the radio wire which XM requires a direct connection to the battery?
Thanks for your time,
Peter
Kraftig Welcone to FTE!
If you do NOT have the upfitter option there are no wires relating to it behind the fuse panel.
What is back there are customer pass through wire set of 4: blue, white, red, and black that is just from the interior through to the inside firewall of the engine bay.
In the same area are another set of wires for the SEIC (Stationary Elevated Idle Control) that is built into all V10 and PSD 2005 SuperDuty trucks. I do not know these wire colors but they are blunt cut and have heat shrink on the end. They look exactly like the "installed" upfitter wires, but are different colors and lables.
If you add the upfitter set, there is a harness that gets power from behind the main fuse panel over to the controll box inside the glove compartment upper area and to the 4 Aux switches, then to the 4 blunt cut wires that come with the control harness.
They get their power via the main panel only in Run or Ign On and are not hot without the key on.
The reason factory installed switches are terminated also behind the fuse panel is because that is where the pass through wires are and it is convenient to connect one switch to one wire and make that wire hot (when key is on and aux switch is lifted) in the engine bay.
So answer to question #1 should be no, you don't have these wires just waiting for some switch and control relay/fuse. If you add in the upfitter 2 parts you will have them.
#2 Your XM book or spec sheet should say how much 12vcd juice the XM module consumes. If it is rated in watts you need to do some simple math:
Here is an example: 12Vdc times 10Amps equals 120Watts of power
So a 150Watt device needs 12.5Amps at 12Vdc. 150/12=12.5
Truth is, we just call our systems 12Volt, in reality with the engine running there is always 13.7 to 14.7Vdc being produced by the alternator. Most 12Vdc electronic devices for autos need 11 to 16Vdc to operate.
This means that 14volts X 10Amp circuit provides max 140watts of power before a fuse blows or circuit breaker trips.
Question #3 Yes it is entirely possible to pick one of the engine bay "pass through" wires and connect it to the positive terminal of the battery or any other "hot" wire in the engine bay. But be careful.... the other end, inside the cabin, is not covered and if hits metal will short, spark, and possibly burn up stuff!
You can put a simple switch to this wire and run your hot over to the XM and there you go. But then the factory radio still needs the key to run.
HTH
Fred
If you do NOT have the upfitter option there are no wires relating to it behind the fuse panel.
What is back there are customer pass through wire set of 4: blue, white, red, and black that is just from the interior through to the inside firewall of the engine bay.
In the same area are another set of wires for the SEIC (Stationary Elevated Idle Control) that is built into all V10 and PSD 2005 SuperDuty trucks. I do not know these wire colors but they are blunt cut and have heat shrink on the end. They look exactly like the "installed" upfitter wires, but are different colors and lables.
If you add the upfitter set, there is a harness that gets power from behind the main fuse panel over to the controll box inside the glove compartment upper area and to the 4 Aux switches, then to the 4 blunt cut wires that come with the control harness.
They get their power via the main panel only in Run or Ign On and are not hot without the key on.
The reason factory installed switches are terminated also behind the fuse panel is because that is where the pass through wires are and it is convenient to connect one switch to one wire and make that wire hot (when key is on and aux switch is lifted) in the engine bay.
So answer to question #1 should be no, you don't have these wires just waiting for some switch and control relay/fuse. If you add in the upfitter 2 parts you will have them.
#2 Your XM book or spec sheet should say how much 12vcd juice the XM module consumes. If it is rated in watts you need to do some simple math:
Here is an example: 12Vdc times 10Amps equals 120Watts of power
So a 150Watt device needs 12.5Amps at 12Vdc. 150/12=12.5
Truth is, we just call our systems 12Volt, in reality with the engine running there is always 13.7 to 14.7Vdc being produced by the alternator. Most 12Vdc electronic devices for autos need 11 to 16Vdc to operate.
This means that 14volts X 10Amp circuit provides max 140watts of power before a fuse blows or circuit breaker trips.
Question #3 Yes it is entirely possible to pick one of the engine bay "pass through" wires and connect it to the positive terminal of the battery or any other "hot" wire in the engine bay. But be careful.... the other end, inside the cabin, is not covered and if hits metal will short, spark, and possibly burn up stuff!
You can put a simple switch to this wire and run your hot over to the XM and there you go. But then the factory radio still needs the key to run.
HTH
Fred
Kan anybody wiht the upfitter switches take a pic of the relay and how its installed behind the glove box? I seem to have brain block and dont know how and where to mount the bracket. got my switches and harnes/relay from a contact yesterday. The relay/wiring box didnt have directions or position plan included. Is this stuff diagrammed in the shop manual?
Whan you order the harness, does it have a relay box attached?
I have part # 5C3Z 14A303 AA sitting here, and it is a kinda large harness with a relay box / bracket on one end. It this the right harness to add upfitter switches? I am still waiting for dealer to get switches, but this harness came in right away???
I have part # 5C3Z 14A303 AA sitting here, and it is a kinda large harness with a relay box / bracket on one end. It this the right harness to add upfitter switches? I am still waiting for dealer to get switches, but this harness came in right away???



