Turbo removal?
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Postmaster
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From: Rep. of Texas
Turbo removal?
First I would like to say that the Hayne's Techbook for ford/GM diesels blows if you owna 93-93 IDI 7.3 turbo diesel. It does not cover them. Boiught one today.
Second, what happened to searching? I cant do it anymore, can yall?
And finally, How do you take the turbo off of a 93 7.3?
I have to replace headgaskets and I am stuck because of the turbo.
Also, (kinda off topic) is the water pump hard to replace?
Second, what happened to searching? I cant do it anymore, can yall?
And finally, How do you take the turbo off of a 93 7.3?
I have to replace headgaskets and I am stuck because of the turbo.
Also, (kinda off topic) is the water pump hard to replace?
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get a torch, and then get an air cleaner off a n/a and put 3"dual exhaust with 4"tips. it will sound way better and the turbo only gives you 5 horsepower on paper, but in real life, when you pull the turbo's off, they pull trailers better. i know a guy that liked it so much that he did all his turbo trucks like that. 4 different trucks and he said they all ran better. i don't know where the bolts are, but i will try to help you out with that too
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From: Braham MN
Jump into the powerstroke forum and ask there, i know its the wrong one but there are alot of smart guys in there that have prolly done it before on an idi and hopefully they will chime in for you.
Diesel rod
Diesel rod
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the water pumps a biatch! 13 5-16 bolts hold it on!! and the fan clutch is hard to get off too, i think on the 94's they had right hand thread on the fan clutch. it will be a little easier if you take the radiator out and you will get really dirty doing it too. oil leakin *******s!!
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From: Rep. of Texas
No Im keeping the turbo. Im going to put the ATS Turbo housing thing on it with a 3" turbo downpipe. That can add up to 50hp after turning the IP up a little. Yes it will be a lot faster in the acceleration department than a NA once it has the turbo mods.
I just want it off to get the the head gaskets.
I just want it off to get the the head gaskets.
Last edited by RawPower; Oct 29, 2004 at 11:26 AM.
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Joined: Oct 2003
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From: New York
the turbo pedestall is bolted to the back of the passenger side head. there a real pain. i think there is 3 bolts if I rember correctly. on mine i can barley see them by laying on the ground under the engine. water pumps are fairly easy to do if ya are taking the heads off since to take the heads off ya remove about half the bolts holding the water pump on anyways. and yes the hyanes book only has one good prupose. the pages are nice and thin and make excelent kindling for those cold winter mornings.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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I found the turbo and snail all had to come off as a unit (kinda) and go back on as a unit to line them up proper. Taking them apart is not a big deal, but getting them back together and in the right spot is crazy.
The bolts that will drive you crazy are under the snail / turbo at the back. 3 of them, if I remember correctly. They hold a piece that holds it all together. It is not fun, and you might need a hand to get it all back on in one piece. (I found you lay a piece of 2 ' foam over the front of the engine to lay on while working back there.)
Every single time I have pulled my turbo off, I have lost the nut to the clamp that attaches the exhaust downpipe and the turbo exhaust together. Every time!! It is a 7/16 fine thread nut that is the same as the clamp / nut as the air cleaner intake one.
The bolts that will drive you crazy are under the snail / turbo at the back. 3 of them, if I remember correctly. They hold a piece that holds it all together. It is not fun, and you might need a hand to get it all back on in one piece. (I found you lay a piece of 2 ' foam over the front of the engine to lay on while working back there.)
Every single time I have pulled my turbo off, I have lost the nut to the clamp that attaches the exhaust downpipe and the turbo exhaust together. Every time!! It is a 7/16 fine thread nut that is the same as the clamp / nut as the air cleaner intake one.
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Posting Guru
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lol, at least you didn't have extra parts.... i don't know which is better, lose a part or have leftovers. if you lose a part, you wonder if it didn't fall in the engine somehow and if you have extra parts, you wonder if it was important..
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From: Monroe, WA
His truck is a factory turbo, Raw. That one's held on with the turbo drain casting and the up-pipe from the right manifold. They are a bitch! Lots or WD-40 (or better). Be very carefull with those little 5/16 12 point bolts that hold the exhaust housing on, they round off VERY easily! Best to use a torch and heat the casting first. I fought the last one I did for two days.
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From: Rep. of Texas
I went out and checked for about the 10th time in a week and a half, and cannot find a 3rd bolt. I can feel the whole mount, and there are only two holes for bolts. There is also a conical know thingy that seems to serve no purpose on it, and an indention that is about 1 1/2" in diameter and 1/4" deep. The **** does not touch anything, but the indention is flush with the air intake snail. There are also two bolts that hole the turbo onto the mount, but that is so tight due to the fuel lines that I cant even get a wrench in there even if I knew what size the bolts were. The only reason I could remotely believe there are three bolts is because yall said so. I can feel the whole mount, top to bottom. I am now beginning to hate my turbo. If they're going to make it this hard to take off, they should have at least put a 3" downpipe and turned it up to about 12 psi, right?
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how loose is it as of right now?? is it still stuck tight?? or can you wiggle it 1/2 inch? or 2 inches, are you trying to take JUST the turbo off?? there is a lot of other stuff that has to come off at the same time as the turbo. or see if the turbo and all will come off with the right head!! it WILL come off one way or the other. is your downpipe holding it on there?? if it is, cut it off, you are gettin a new one anyways! i dunno, maybe you jhust need a bigger hammer or a winch truck. i guess i will look at my buddies and see if i can find out anything for ya. hes is different than mine was, i had a banks turbo on it, but it started leakin oil real bad so i took it off, i found it at the junkyard and didn't work that great anyways. i like the sound of dual straightipes with no turbo, pops like a gasser at about 2600
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From: Monroe, WA
3 bolts? There should only be two going in the bottom of the turbo's center section. They need a 'bent' wrench to get them out. The other two bolts that hold it are the two flange bolts on the ride side exhaust manifold. The problem is where the Y-pipe connects to the turbo up pipe there is a ball socket. This will rust together into one solid piece after a few years, making it a long haul to get it apart. Leave the top bolted together and work on getting that ball socket to wiggle, around a can and a half of WD-40 and a day of prying it back and forth it will fall right out. Then you can fight the top two bolts.
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The three bolts I am talking about are behind the snail. There is a metal 'boomarang' piece (you'll know it when it is all off) that is held on with 3 bolts. 2 are easy to get at. the third will be a pain as it is right under the turbo.
The problem is, after fighting with the darn turbo for half a day to get it back on proper, you have long forgotten to take pictures for next time. You just want to get it done and back together before you start to smash things.
Can you wiggle the SNAIL and turbo together, or can you wiggle them independent of one another? The turbo also is 'pressed' into the exhaust on the passenger side (at least on my stock exhaust manifold). If I remember correctly (already been a couple weeks since I last did this) there are 3 spots the turbo will need to line up. The downpipe, the snail housing, and the passenger exhaust manifold. Surprisingly, I found only the downpipe had a large clamp holding it together. The others are that pressed fitting.
The turbo is then mounted to that boomarang piece that is held on with 3 bolts going straight in from the back of the engine to the front. (no angles). That piece also happens to be under the snail housing.
If I get a chance, I will try and take some pictures of it this weekend.
I don't plan to remove any parts, but that might help with where the bolts are located....
The problem is, after fighting with the darn turbo for half a day to get it back on proper, you have long forgotten to take pictures for next time. You just want to get it done and back together before you start to smash things.
Can you wiggle the SNAIL and turbo together, or can you wiggle them independent of one another? The turbo also is 'pressed' into the exhaust on the passenger side (at least on my stock exhaust manifold). If I remember correctly (already been a couple weeks since I last did this) there are 3 spots the turbo will need to line up. The downpipe, the snail housing, and the passenger exhaust manifold. Surprisingly, I found only the downpipe had a large clamp holding it together. The others are that pressed fitting.
The turbo is then mounted to that boomarang piece that is held on with 3 bolts going straight in from the back of the engine to the front. (no angles). That piece also happens to be under the snail housing.
If I get a chance, I will try and take some pictures of it this weekend.
I don't plan to remove any parts, but that might help with where the bolts are located....
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From: Rep. of Texas
I cant wiggle either the snail or the turbo. I can tell the turbo is getting looser, though. The turbo downpipe is disconnected from the exhaust but still to the y pipe, glanced at that one and didnt get it either. Im assuming its a clamp too, but I didnt see one. If it is a clamp, is it under the heat shield?
I dont want to go about cutting parts until I have replacements... just another excuse to get new stuff
I dont want to go about cutting parts until I have replacements... just another excuse to get new stuff