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Is there an outside resistor (i think thats what he called it) on a 351C. The guy I got the truck from has a switch wired to a resitor next to the soleniod and then to the coil. when I start it I have to flip the switch then start it with the key. When I shut it off I flip the switch and then the key. Just turning the key off w/o it and the engine still runs, but it wont start w/o the switch. He told me the resistor drops the volts to 9. I have never heard of this. Has anyone? Is there a way to fix it to normal? Eng is 351C, Mallory Distrib, 3/4? cam, Edelbrock manifold/carb
The coil requires a resistor to drop the voltage. Usually on a Ford that resistor is a special wire in the wiring harness. It sounds like you need to do some rewiring to get it done right.
I thought only points ignitions needed 9 volts to keep the points from arcing and newer electronic ignitions use 12 volts. Any body know any different? What year is your ride? The resistor may be a leftover from an old points ignition and not needed.
I thought only points ignitions needed 9 volts to keep the points from arcing and newer electronic ignitions use 12 volts. Any body know any different? What year is your ride? The resistor may be a leftover from an old points ignition and not needed.
Some of the aftermarket electronic coils require resistors, depends on the brand.
The DS-II OEM Ford ignition system used a ballast resistor also. That way they could get a hotter spark during cranking when full voltage was sent to the coil from a tap on the starter solenoid and it would not overheat the coil during normal operation. During cranking available battery voltage drops to around 9-10V due to line loss in the battery cables.
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