I’ve written in these forums previously with good replies/results, but I’m now faced with a perplexing reoccurring issue that I cannot seem to correct. First a little history:

I’ve got a 1987 Ford Ranger 2WD, 2.3L fuel injected, automatic, air conditioned vehicle.

It has approximately 114,000 miles, and I’ve had it about 13 months now. I got it with 88,000 miles.

I’ve virtually replace every single component, from sensors, to alternators, to torque converters, to fuel injectors, fuel pumps, plugs, wires, TFI module, relays, solenoid, starter, cat converter, exhaust system, ECU, and on and on and on. Like I said, just about everything imaginable, barring none. Feel free to ask or make suggestions, but I can assure you that I’ve replaced just about every single component I can see, reach or read about.

Generally, the vehicle runs like a new truck, at times. BUT, there are times when it feels like there is either a fuel starvation issue or maybe an ignition miss. ALL fuel injection components have been changed (fuel regulator, injectors, filters, pumps, in tank pump, etc.), with no improvement or minimal feeling of improvement, as well as ignition parts, right down to a brand new distributor, sensors, etc. I’ve tried various grades of gas too, no difference.

Most recently, I just installed a Flex-A-Lite electric fan, and that made a very big difference, for a while, but In feel that it only made up for the lack or loss of what is really a problem.

Today, it felt/ran poorly. Symptoms are:

Sluggishness, lack of power, idles slightly rough. It actually FEELS like the timing gets whacked out, as the “knock” is most evident when these ‘bad’ symptoms occur. Mind you, when the truck runs well, it’s like its silky smooth, power, acceleration, shifts properly, everything you would expect.

ONE strange issue: I’ve got a Valentine One radar detector, and it’s mounted just below the rear view mirror. I’ve got it hard wired into the fuse panel, and I also have the remote display. Mind you, I can disconnect the remote display and the hard wire, and use it as a portable, just like I do in many other cars…..but, in either configuration, I get the sporadic like blips on the LED’s from time to time, no rhyme or reason. IF I use it in ANY other vehicle, I get no indications like I do in the Ranger. I contacted them today, and the tech told me that he has similar issues with motorcycles, Chevy Astro vans, and some high performance vehicles, and others with Jacobs Ignition. Mine is stock. He says that it’s from ignition noise. Also could be stray voltage or spikes. In any event, could this be the ‘indicator’ of my woes? Could this be the item that tells me there is an electrical issue? Also, for the record, if I take the unit out, totally disconnect every connection to the detector, I still get the sporadic issues with my truck.

Again, when the truck runs crappy, it feels like the ECU is adjusting for something (?), and I develop a low grade knock, which totally disappears when it runs like a champ, and yes, I’ve replaced the knock sensor.

Another question: There is a converter clutch solenoid, could this be going flakey??

What is a “Inferred Mileage Sensor”, located at the RH cowl behind and top of the ECU?

What is the “extended useful life sensor”, also located just above the inferred sensor?

Could there be a bad diode somewhere in the system?

I know this post is long winded, and very complex, but I’ve take the time to hopefully describe to the best of my ability as to what the issues are and maybe somebody does know what could be wrong. Help please.

Bob Flowers

 

What did ya test the sensors with?

 

I'll throw a few questions out at you Bob. Hows the fuel pressure and fuel volume, the spark, the timing, the timing advance when it runs bad? Did you replace the coil. Is the engine good mechanicaly? Has the timing belt been replaced? Does the weather or temperature affect it? Do you get any codes if you run the KOER test when it's running bad?

The CCS should throw a code if it was bad.

The IMS is just a timer that will turn on the service light which is a real PIA to turn off, most people bypass it.

Don't know about the EULS.

I'll keep giving it some thought, maybe I'll think of a few more questions to ask.

 

My mechanic used a professional SUN tester, and although most shoed good, I wanted all of them replaced.

 

I've considered testing the fuel pressure/volume as a next step. After reading here & there, I see that Ford releases the truck with 38 lb. pressure, fixed, and that some people use AFPR (adjustable fuel pressure regulator). I'm considering this, and see that most people set it for 43 lbs pressure. I'm not sure, but I'd hope it might help. Any preference?

New timing belt, replaced in December.

When running 'bad', I really don't have the resources to have it checked, but on occasion, I've taken it to my mechanic/friend (top notch professional, I trust NO ONE else), and his eqipment shows not issues. Should I be looking for anything in particular??

Thankz so far.......

 

>Does the weather or temperature affect it?
Ya know, SOMETIMES....but not always

>Do you get any codes if you run the KOER test when it's running bad?
No

 

I just recently got a 94 ranger from my stepdad, took real good care of it, I have experienced that same problem. One thing I noticed when it does run (crappy) I heard the air conditioner compressor clicking on and off. Not sure if this has anything to do with this but, I also have loss of power, and when it does this the engine sounds a little bit louder than usual.

 

..."Sluggishness, lack of power, idles slightly rough. It actually FEELS like the timing gets whacked out, as the “knock” is most evident when these ‘bad’ symptoms occur. Mind you, when the truck runs well, it’s like its silky smooth, power, acceleration, shifts properly, everything you would expect."...

my 99 Ranger Sport 4-banger, A/C, 30,000 miles, and manual tranny does the same thing.....makes me wonder what's wrong with mine...

 

>..."Sluggishness, lack of power, idles slightly rough. It
>actually FEELS like the timing gets whacked out, as the
>“knock” is most evident when these ‘bad’ symptoms occur.
>Mind you, when the truck runs well, it’s like its silky
>smooth, power, acceleration, shifts properly, everything you
>would expect."...
>
>my 99 Ranger Sport 4-banger, A/C, 30,000 miles, and manual
>tranny does the same thing.....makes me wonder what's wrong
>with mine...

First of all slayerboy QUIT posting ya poser. you didnt even know your truck IS RWD. and owned it for 4 monthes. {points to other posts by slayerboy}

Now for the problem. What kind of plug wires do you have.
I know people who used the cheap ones after about a year the EMI "shielding?" wears out and they cause interference with the sensors etc. So if ya bought the 19.99 autozone special wires ya might try putting some quality or oem wires on it.

Oh and Ken00 gives excellent advice

Rand

 

..."First of all slayerboy QUIT posting ya poser. you didnt even know your truck IS RWD. and owned it for 4 monthes. {points to other posts by slayerboy"...

so your saying that because I had my truck for 4 months and didn't know what WD it is, that I'm a poser? Fine, think what you may. I'm not smart like everyone else. I'm working full-time and going to college full-time. Sometimes my thoughts aren't as clear as they should be.

If everyone thinks I'm a poser then I will leave this board. Is there anything wrong with responding to messages that I haven't seen because I haven't been on the computer in a week?

 

Bosch

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 13-Sep-02 AT 10:08 PM (EST)]It almost sounds to me that you could have a bad ground somewhere. If a ground strap is loose or corroded somewhere it can increase the resistance in a sensor circuit enough to cause an in range failure. An in range failure is where the ecm sees a change in the signal voltage coming from the sensor but has not gone out of the ecms operating range, intern not setting a fault code. If this is the case you could try running you own ground strap from component to component until it does not do this any more. Your other option would be to run the thing with a scan tool hooked up and try to duplicate the complaint. If you can monitor the sensor readings when the engine does this you will most likely see one of the sensors change to a value that the ecm sees as ok, but changes timing or fueling.

Hope this helps,
Cooter

 

I would most likeyly go with what Ken00 suggested about the timing belt with the miles on your truck.

1979 F-150 4x4 351M C-6 NP205
2001 Ranger XL

 

Timing belt was REPLACED in December of 2001, at 102,000 miles, I now have 114, 000 miles, I don't THINK so!

 

When working at the Ford dealer I saw a truck come in with a brand new non-Ford MAP sensor (BII - EEC IV) that was defective as in not calibrated correctly. The mstr mech threw the box onto a Ford tester and it tested all over the place, brand new! It was sensing it was at something like 5,000 ft above sea-level. Took a new Ford one from the box, got results within specs, poppped it onto the vehicle. Problem solved.

If all else fails, start looking at the non-Ford sensors.

One problem I encountered on my 2.9L/A$LD is that the O2 sensor wires tend to touch the hot exhaust or develop breaks in the wires. The harness also ran across the hot transmission wires. Not good.

Since the vehicle starts and runs and feels like it looses power once running, I would look at fuel mixture problems. 02, MAP, coolant temp., ACT.

re:spark plug wires
I agree with the earlier post. Try testing them with a meter once the vehicle is hot. I bought a set at Autozone and returned a few from the box for others because they tested too high.