OK I own a 2002 Explorer and was wondering how you fellas with the factory fog lights turn them on? Does the factory switch control park, head, and fog lights? My F-350 does and I pull the switch out to turn on the fogs. If that is the case, can I wire aftermarket fog lights into that switch? I don't want to add another switch somewhere, but I want fog lights. The dealer says $180 for parts and labor. I would rather get better lights and spend less and install myself. I would have to buy a new switch because mine does not pull out, any ideas where?

Now the lights... I have the 3-1/2" holes below the bumper, so that's where I want them to go. What lights have you used there and how good were they and what was the pattern? I like the lighting the factory lights give immediatly in front and beside, but I want some that shoot down the road a ways. Thanks!

jman

 

jman -

If that $180 quote from the dealer includes Ford fog lights, new light switch and all the labor, it's an excellent price!!! Check out the parts department for prices on just the L/H & R/H fog light assembly.

If you want lights that "shoot down the road a ways", you might wanna consider driving lights.

Steve

 

Sorry, I should have clearified, I do want driving lights, but what brands offer good value? I know brands like Hella, PIAA, KC, IPF... and many others, but some or too high of a price for what I need. Also the $180 is what my wife told me and I don't know exactly what the $180 includes. Maybe she misunderstood?? Thanks for the input!

jman

 

jman -

Yeah, each Ford fog light assembly runs over $100 (I looked into putting them on my '02 before I traded for an '04).

The brands you mentioned for driving lights have been around for a long time; I've never used any but they all look like good units. If that $180 quote is in fact good, find out what brand they would use; might be worth it!!!

Steve

 

if I were looking to get them, I would stay with Hella or PIAA's. They might cost a little more, but in this case, you will get what you pay for. I changed my fog lights on my 97 to Hellas when I put the new airdam on. I wish i had done it sooner....

 

I have made some new developments on this. I have found a couple lights that Hella Optilux makes that I think will work, and the dealers say all I need is the fog light switch. Does anyone know if those plastic covers, where the factory lights would be, pop out and can be replaced with the ones that have the holes in them? I am hoping to get everything except the lights from a body shop.

here is my list, can you think of anything else?

Factory replacement headlight switch with fog light option
Light kit (hella PIAA...)
bumper inserts with holes
extra wiring (I don't want to tap into an existing wire unless it's the park lights)

Thanks!

 

jman -

When I priced Ford fog lights for my '02 Explorer, I was told by the dealer I couldn't buy the housings separately from the lights; if that's true you may have to get them from a wrecking yard. I don't know if your housings without light holes just "pop" out, but they have to be removable somehow. Hopefully, once you get them off you'll find the wiring is already there.

Personally, I would install a separate switch rather than replace the headlight switch. I also wouldn't tap into ANY existing circuit; those lights pull lotsa amps and need their own circuit.

Good luck........let me know how it turns out!

Steve

 

I usually just leave factory lights in now a days since they have become more functional as of late rather than 'ornamental' in the early models - still not great but at least somewhat functional now. Anyways, most of your better lights (Hella, Bosch, PIAA) come with a relay for the wiring which might enable you to bypass putting in a switch all together (if you want). Here's a quick explanation to the 4 wire relay and how it is used/functions:

Wire 1 - splits and goes to power the lights
Wire 2 - high amp (fused line) from direct power source (battery/pwr block/etc)
Wire 3 - relay ground wire
Wire 4 - from switch inside cab. Low amp line that acts just to kick the relay on but does not power lights directly. This is to prevent drawing too many amps on a line that not able to handle the draw and to prevent lights from being left on w/out vehicle running causing battery drain, etc.

Wire 4 is usually recommended to be tapped into either the low or high beam lighting circuit (see note below about state inspections) and run thru the switch in cab and then to the relay. Basically, this set up protects the wiring, lights, switch, relay, etc. integrity and prevents too much draw which would cause a blown fuse or worse a blown in-line fuse requiring a dealer visit to fix. This way, not too much power is running thru the low amp switch to power high amp lights. The lights get their power from the direct power source through the relay via wire #2 and #1 after the low amp switch (wire #4) kicks on the relay.

Anyhow, to avoid putting in a switch, you can run wire #4 (low amp tap connect) directly from either the low or high beam light line to the relay. Or, better yet, directly from the parking lights (P/L) to the relay. The incremental draw created by wire #4 on an existing line is negligible and will not cause problems. Again, it is a low draw line that just tells the relay it's okay to kick on and pull power from direct source to send to lamps. If you wire thru the P/Ls, when you turn your P/Ls on - your extra lamps will automatically come on and off when shut off. If wire #4 comes from the low beams, your lights will only work when your lows are on and off when low beams are off (depending on your truck - they may also shut off when you turn your high beams on). Same for high beams. But, if you wire from P/Ls, your lamps will be on when you turn on the P/Ls and won't be affected by the low or high beams. BTW, this also saves a ton of time on install as you don't have to fish a wire thru the firewall nor do you have to mod your dash and drill holes or spend time trying to find a switch that you like to 'match' your interior. Most of the switches that come in kits are pretty crappy and would like terrible with your factory interior.

*State Inspections - I've never had an issue w/ PA inspection on 4 or 5 vehicles that I've wired this way, but that's not to say your state might be different. Anyhow, most say that the 'extra' lamps should be switched and that fogs can only be used w/ low beams and driving only with high beams (due to different wattage rating on bulbs - fogs are usually 55W and d/l's are 65w+). If you do a clean install (which I'm sure you will) into the factory location for the lamps, you shouldn't have any issues what so ever.

As for the lights, I've mostly just used Hella. Pretty reasonably priced (under $100) and good quality. I'd recommend just getting fogs - you'll be amazed at how much more light (both side 2 side) and down the road you'll get from them over your factory lamps.

Sorry to be so lenghty and wordy, but I've added many sets of extra lamps over the years and thought I could offer some good insight. BTW, if your lights come without a relay (which I doubt) DEFINITELY add one. It's only a couple of bucks but worth the peace of mind and protection it adds to the your systems.

Good luck and I hope this helped!

 

Cassiepar,

Thanks for your help. I think I would like the ability to switch the lights on and off, just because we live in Denver and aftermarket lights seem to be too bright for city. I just don't want to get pulled over for my lights being too bright, then they see my tint is illegal... Finding a switch to match the interior is nearly impossible and that's why I am hoping to swap my headlight swith out for one with the fog light option. If I lived in a rural area, then sure, I'd have no problem with no switch.

You have helped out alot! I know exactly what you are talking about and am very familiar, partly because I just installed some Hella 500's on my bronco last night. (wire #4 from P/L) I have a bad ground somewhere (I think it's for the switch), that needs fixed, but I got to see what they do. They really shine a LONG ways in a pretty tight beam! I need to point them out just a hair instead of straight down the road. I am pleased with the lights and I only paid $60 for em.

Next week, I am going to start putting a list together of what I need and start pricing around.

I will let you know how they turn out, if I get to do them. Thanks again!

Oh and anyone with factory lighting, please measure the opening for me! Thanks!

 

Just measured quickly for you, diameter of factory opening is approx 3 7/8".

 

Great! Thanks!