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I am not happy with the stopping power of my '78 F-250 4x4. I have had this truck back on the road for over a year. A year ago I replaced every single brake component. Everything is properly adjusted and bled. The pedal is just too soft for my taste, and it just doesn't stop fast or hard enough. I want a hard pedal and to be able to lock up all 4-Wheels if I want to. The truck has the Front Dana 60 axle with dual piston calipers.
I have heard of installing a 1-Ton Master Cylinder and Booster, any thoughts on this? Anybody have any other suggestions? I don't want to get into high dollar after market conversions by Brembo or Baer. I want to stick to Ford parts if possible. THanks for your help!
I thought the same thing as well. 10 months ago, replaced the remanufactured master cylinder with a brand new unit. Bench bled all the air out and still have the same issue. I have had a lot of people tell me that's just the way the old Ford's stop. I even reverse bled the entire hydraullic system and there is no air in the system.
A bigger booster and MC will give you a greater hydro-mechanical advantage, comparing the ability to push the same calipers. Apparently, ford used different stuff with the different 250s. I have what others on this site have said is a 350 booster. It is a double diaphragm, is smaller diameter, but deeper than the single one that 150s, and maybe some 250s came with. You said all your stuff is pretty new, and that it is properly bled. Assuming that, you should have no problems stopping. I would upgrade to a bigger booster and try that. Mine will leave 4 black marks on the pavement is you push the pedal hard enough. Like I said, it is stock, so the parts are out there. Any other questions, let me know. Ted
You said you wanted a harder pedal. Fluid is essentially incompressible. Soft pedal will be air in the lines, leakage somewhere, or elasticity of the lines. Something in the system is compressing, stretching or leaking. Sometimes the factory stock DOT approved flex hoses each front corner and between chassis and rear axle have some stretch in them.
Some years past, I bought (teflon lined) braided steel brake lines for a 4-wheel disc Saab 99 Turbo. I think I got them from Group 6 Performance -- and I seem to recall a note about them being race equipment and not DOT highway approved. I later bought another set for my wife's 900 Turbo. The whole idea was to eliminate as much stretch as possible from the brake plumbing.
I mention this because it may be possible to go to a speed shop, or a supplier like Summit Racing, and get high performance braided stainless steel flex hoses that will not stretch nearly as much as stock hoses.
Last edited by Lane Dexter; Oct 28, 2004 at 12:51 AM.
there is a thin booster with a fulcrum in the mounting bracket. it will multiply the force applied from the pedal. I think it usually came with 390/360 I think.it may not fit if you have a 460.
I second the braided stainless flex lines.
if you have an old style trailer brake unit that taps into the hydraulics, bleed that too...
It is an upgrade for a bronco, but here is what the booster on my truck looks like. http://www.okcnetworks.com/bronco/brakes/index.htm
If you scroll down part way, he has to things to click on. The first is the stock bronco stuff, the second is the F350 upgrade. Hope this helps, as you can see if it looks like what you have.
Been my experience that the brakes on these trucks are just marginal. My best luck was using soft "cheap" front pads. They work best until heated and then fade. The high priced ones never got hot enough to work.
maybe that is part of my problem! I am running Auto Zone's Performance Friction brake pads. The Carbon Met. Pads stop better the hotter they get. If I am not getting them hot - they won't stop as well. Eureka!!!
It is an upgrade for a bronco, but here is what the booster on my truck looks like. http://www.okcnetworks.com/bronco/brakes/index.htm
If you scroll down part way, he has to things to click on. The first is the stock bronco stuff, the second is the F350 upgrade. Hope this helps, as you can see if it looks like what you have.
That is an excellent URL...teds74ford! Great explanation and now I have a nice "winter" project for my '76 F-150 4x4. Thanks again for providing that URL.
Has anybody installed a hydro boost setup from a later 90's Ford F350? It looks it will need a new mounting bracket made to compensate for the different length of shaft plus a high pressure line from the p.s. pump. I wonder if this is worth the trouble and will it perform better than vacuum?
Has anybody installed a hydro boost setup from a later 90's Ford F350? It looks it will need a new mounting bracket made to compensate for the different length of shaft plus a high pressure line from the p.s. pump. I wonder if this is worth the trouble and will it perform better than vacuum?
R
I may end up doing that on my project truck if I cannot get good brakes on it.
can you just change the brake booster and not have to change anything else? Or do you have to change the wheel cylinders as well for this to work properly?
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