F1 Spring Replacement
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 138
From: Alberta Canada
F1 Spring Replacement
I am in the process of dismantling and removing the rear suspension from my 1950 F47 (Canadian eh ?) half ton. I was able to drive out the rear pins on the rear spring assembly using heat and 3/8” drift punch. The front pins are located near the middle cross member; I can’t get in behind to drive them out. Does anyone have a workable solution to try ?
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I will have to replace the swing hangers, bushings, pins etc as they are completely worn out. Are there later model replacement bushings, hangers that would be an improvement over the stock parts, that can be “bolted on”. I prefer to avoid fabricating new mounts if possible. I am using a 2000 Explorer rear axle,mounting it under the exisiting springs, have removed four lower leaf springs to lower the ride closer to stock .I have concerns the original springs may be fatigued and should consider replacing them. I had considered using the donor springs but they are longer and interfere with the running board brackets. Are there late model springs that would be compatible in length ?
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Any input appreciated.
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Tom
<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com
fficeffice" /><o></o>I will have to replace the swing hangers, bushings, pins etc as they are completely worn out. Are there later model replacement bushings, hangers that would be an improvement over the stock parts, that can be “bolted on”. I prefer to avoid fabricating new mounts if possible. I am using a 2000 Explorer rear axle,mounting it under the exisiting springs, have removed four lower leaf springs to lower the ride closer to stock .I have concerns the original springs may be fatigued and should consider replacing them. I had considered using the donor springs but they are longer and interfere with the running board brackets. Are there late model springs that would be compatible in length ?
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></o>Any input appreciated.
<o
></o>Tom
More Turbo
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 544
Likes: 8
From: BC, Canada
Remove the grease nipple from the end of the pins and screw in a sliding hammer. The threads are 1/8" npt, but you can rig up something to fit. I scored two for two with a homemade sliding hammer welded to a pipe thread fitting. Tap them in a bit, rotate them a bit, use slidehammer and repeat (don't forget lots of your favourite penetrating oil) ...Terry
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
[QUOTE=I had considered using the donor springs but they are longer and interfere with the running board brackets. Are there late model springs that would be compatible in length ?[/size][/font]
Tom,
I will be using 87 Chrysler 5th Avenue rear springs and hangers on my F-3. They are longer, however, I don't see that there will be too much of a problem altering the running board brackets. The longer springs also produce a smoother ride...
Vern
Tom,
I will be using 87 Chrysler 5th Avenue rear springs and hangers on my F-3. They are longer, however, I don't see that there will be too much of a problem altering the running board brackets. The longer springs also produce a smoother ride...
Vern
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 138
From: Alberta Canada
Spring Replacement
Well; I got the pins out of the F1 front brackets for rear springs by grinding off and punching out the rivets. As suspected the springs; bushings are badly worn. Now have to decide whether to use stock replacement mounts and have new main springs made (costly) or use donor springs (88 Nissan 2WD are very close) and source hanging hardware. Ride height will actually be raised 2 ", unless I can modify mounting hardware.
Has anyone ideas on other springs, etc to use. I really want to avoid "c" notch in frame as I want to minimize stress to it.
Tom
Has anyone ideas on other springs, etc to use. I really want to avoid "c" notch in frame as I want to minimize stress to it.
Tom
Lead Driver
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 8,813
Likes: 13
From: Littleton, New Hampshire
Tom,
I really don't think a C-notch would stress your frame if it is done right, but I can understand if you don't want to do that. I don't want to C-notch mine either unless it's a last resort. If you use the Nissan springs you should be able to get the 2 inches back using a combination of lowering blocks and/or hanger modification.
Vern
I really don't think a C-notch would stress your frame if it is done right, but I can understand if you don't want to do that. I don't want to C-notch mine either unless it's a last resort. If you use the Nissan springs you should be able to get the 2 inches back using a combination of lowering blocks and/or hanger modification.
Vern
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,757
Likes: 138
From: Alberta Canada
Spring mounts
Thanks Vern, I am looking at after market hangers and mounts this coming week.
Barring that I may fabricate something that can bolt to the existing holes in frame, and give me latitiude on ride height.
Tom
Barring that I may fabricate something that can bolt to the existing holes in frame, and give me latitiude on ride height.
Tom
