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Ok... I don't know too much about the differences in axels and stuff, other than the baisiscs.... but I was hoping to get a locker for my rear axel on my 81 F100... but, it's got a rear axel from an 85 full size Bronco.. I was looking into the Eaton ELockers.. but they don't make any for the Ford 9 In.. so I think I'm gonna go the ARB AirLocker route. But they only make them for the 31 spline 9 In. From what I've read there is also a 29 (If I remember correctly) spline 9 In. Where they both made in the same time periods? Or what would be the easiest way for me to tell?
The tag on the axel was broken/rusted off. So that isn't going to be of much use.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks - Levi
The old style 28 spline axles were used up until the early 80's in some light duty trucks. The easiest way to tell what you have is to pull the axle. Requires pulling the wheel, and undoing 4 bolts that hold the axle into the housing. Mark one spline with a paint marker or wax crayon, and count your splines.
IF your axle is an 85 then its a 31 spline, and to my knowledge ford quite using the 28 spline axles in 83. 4x4's generally came with the 31 spline axles as well.
IF your axle is an 85 then its a 31 spline, and to my knowledge ford quite using the 28 spline axles in 83. 4x4's generally came with the 31 spline axles as well.
Not always. Ford used the 8.8 inch in the 80's as well (not so common in the 70's, never heard of in the 60's to speak of) I believe they quit using the 28 spline in the early 80's as well, but depending on the truck, I'd check, and count the spline in person to make sure. The 8.8 inch had 28 spline where the 9 inch had 31 spline in later model 80's trucks.....do your home-work, and make sure.
Hey, thanks for the help guys.. now I've got another question.. I've got the TTB setup in the front, like the standard 80's bronco's/lighter duty trucks.. but I'm lookin' to get a straight axel.. but don't quite have the money at the moment to get the $5,000 SAS kits. LoL
So, I was lookin' to see if I could junk yard the parts I need and do it like that. I was there just today and saw a 79 F150 w/ a straight axel in the front. And it was pretty much the same type of setup.. the control arm was a lot longer.. and the spring/shock towers were different (in shape, and they were seperate, instead of one thing) It didn't look like it'd be that hard of a conversion.. but I wasn't able to measure the width of the frame or anything like that, so again, it's hard to say. Lemme know what you guys think.
Yes that axle is the best one to use (thos trucks have the wider frame) and those kits are bogus for the amount of stuff you get. What you basicaly do is use all the 79 stuff and make it work with your frame. You do however need at least a 5.5" lift spring in order for the differential to clear the engine crossmember. This topic as been covered extensively in the offroad and 4x4 forum. If you do a search on SAS (solid axle swap) and you should find a gold mine of information.
Thanks, Mustange.
Exactly what i needed to hear.
Now I just gotta convince the guy to sell it to me.
I was lookin' at it at this wrecking yard..
And the guy said "You have an 80's.. this is a 70's.. it won't fit" and I said I would to the fabrication etc that it would take to get it to work.. and he just said "It won't fit" and walked off.
I guess he just doesn't wanna stay in business..
It will take some fabing to do though, you have to make/relocate the radius arms mounts, you spring and shock buckets should work, not sure though, and you need to fab up or mod a trac bar bracket for it to work to.
Thanks, Mustange.
Exactly what i needed to hear.
Now I just gotta convince the guy to sell it to me.
I was lookin' at it at this wrecking yard..
And the guy said "You have an 80's.. this is a 70's.. it won't fit" and I said I would to the fabrication etc that it would take to get it to work.. and he just said "It won't fit" and walked off.
I guess he just doesn't wanna stay in business..
Tell him you have a 79 at home that needs a donor...he doesn't need to know what you're really doing.
EDIT: Should add, take ALL related parts re steering, suspension, frame mounting, etc....you want EVERYTHING hooked up to that diff including the drive-shaft. When it comes to fabbing, having a few extra parts allows for some mistakes, and mixing and matching as well. May also want to look at an oil-pan change to make sure everything clears properly.
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