shackle flip??
Originally Posted by kjkozak2
Muddyford,
I did the shackle flip on my 78 off-road truck. At first, I just drilled out the rivets, flipped over the stock brackets, and bolted it back on. Worked just fine but I was told that I should move the brackets forward to get a better shackle angle. I moved them 3" forward and all is well. Handles the trails and hills nicely.
One concern with the stock shackles is that they were designed to handle a tension load. When you flip it over it becomes a compression load, and some people have had problems with the shackle bending or collapsing. That can be easily avoided by welding a plate across the back side making it more of a tube than a channel (or just get hangers from a bigger truck as sugested above).
I didn't reinforce mine (yet) and they've held up to quite a few serious beatings.
So in short, yes you can just drill 'em out, flip 'em, and bolt 'em back in. But move 'em forward 3". Also (as stated above) you'll really only get about 3" or so. Just enough to make up for removing those dang lift blocks.
Hope this helps.
Kevin K.
I did the shackle flip on my 78 off-road truck. At first, I just drilled out the rivets, flipped over the stock brackets, and bolted it back on. Worked just fine but I was told that I should move the brackets forward to get a better shackle angle. I moved them 3" forward and all is well. Handles the trails and hills nicely.
One concern with the stock shackles is that they were designed to handle a tension load. When you flip it over it becomes a compression load, and some people have had problems with the shackle bending or collapsing. That can be easily avoided by welding a plate across the back side making it more of a tube than a channel (or just get hangers from a bigger truck as sugested above).
I didn't reinforce mine (yet) and they've held up to quite a few serious beatings.
So in short, yes you can just drill 'em out, flip 'em, and bolt 'em back in. But move 'em forward 3". Also (as stated above) you'll really only get about 3" or so. Just enough to make up for removing those dang lift blocks.
Hope this helps.
Kevin K.
Thank You! this is JUST the information i wanted to know. I've just sanded and painted my frame after installing the 4" skyjacker leaf springs and rebuilt axles stock axles. I was just bouncing the frame around to see how much softer the new softride leaf's were and i noticed that the shackles now bottom out with a LOUD 'clank' when the weight of the frame is taken off the rear axle. I think this would get annoying real quick once i take it off-road... though hopefully i can get rid of those blocks cause it had crazy axle wrap when stock. These softer springs wont help any.
You mean bracing to the frame rails? I don't think so. I believe the torsion load will be the same or at least close to the same.
Although, as stated above, you could close up the back of the shackle itself to strengthen the little "legs".
Kevin K.
Although, as stated above, you could close up the back of the shackle itself to strengthen the little "legs".
Kevin K.
I believe what you are saying is if you can find a stock f350 rear hanger and replace the current f250 rear hanger you can raise the rear end of the truck. Also by removing rear hanger and moving to front of truck position you can raise front end also?? And don't have to flip any hanger?? I have a 97 f250 4wd crew, and think this makes the most sense, being able to carry same load on truck without flipping hangers. Please advise if I'am on the right track, or spaced out?? Thanks Jeff
Jeff, I think either you are misunderstanding the shackle flip or I am misunderstanding your question. Look at my gallery for the shackle flip. I show a few different combinations there. See if this helps and post back if you have questions about it.
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