The beast update.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Spokane, WA
If you're running a big tire it'll be no different than balancing on a regular rim if you use an internal balancer. I'm going to use about 14oz of bb's for my 44" Swampers. If you're not familiar with this search just a couple pages back in this forum for a thread about "Balancing big meats". It's far easier and more effective than tape weights.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
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My bad about the beadlocks, I was unaware that anyone made a DOT approved beadlock, apperently it is all to often that it is printed they are not leagal, (and to think I usually question what is written in the mags) I have thought of having the wheels I bought for the mud truck sent in and have bead locks installed but after spending over $400 bucks a piece on welds I think I'll give them a try before spending anymore on them, besides I have a lot of faith in the 16.5 rim and this will be a true test since the truck they are going on is no mall crawler,
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Eureka, Ca.
The 16.5x12 M/T rims were the cheapest ones I could find for my 8 lug hubs. Even steel rimns were more expensive. At least for the 12" wide ones. I did look around but the M/T seemed good enough, Considering what I paied for them.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
Likes: 3
From: Spokane, WA
I'm not saying you can't run 16.5's. Pro has them on his truck and airs down but if you really want to run low PSI for trails, rocks, etc then you should really consider a 16" rim or a double beadlock. If you're not airing down too far you have nothing to worry about.
Okay, hijack ended.
Okay, hijack ended.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 5,871
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From: Coutts Canada
The reason why people don't recomend airing down tires on 16.5" rims is because of the tapered style bead that the 16.5" rims use. Because of this tapered beads bigger tires when aired down to low PSI put way less pressure on the bead of the tire, and thus this makes the tires slip off the bead easier than say a 16" or 15" rim. But i do know that starting fluid makes quick work of reseating bead when a tire does pop off one
.
The 16.5x12 white spokes rims i got for my 81 with the 35 boggers only cost me about 125 canadian apiece. As fa as the radius arms i would use a 2x3x.25 tubing, as one good hard far on that .18" tube will bend it good.
.The 16.5x12 white spokes rims i got for my 81 with the 35 boggers only cost me about 125 canadian apiece. As fa as the radius arms i would use a 2x3x.25 tubing, as one good hard far on that .18" tube will bend it good.
Lead Driver
Joined: May 2000
Posts: 9,236
Likes: 12
From: Senoia, GA
everytime i go lower than 8-9 psi i lose a bead! it is fine when just rolling on a flat surface but that is boring, lol, so i keep it at about 10-11 psi and i haven't lost one yet and beat the pis out of it! my next set of rims will be 20" double beadlocks for my 48" Michelin XML's bolted to 2.5 ton rolling stock! (that could be a while, lol), screw 16.5's!
-cutts-
-cutts-
Lead Driver
Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Gilbert
Originally Posted by ivanribic
If you're running a big tire it'll be no different than balancing on a regular rim if you use an internal balancer. I'm going to use about 14oz of bb's for my 44" Swampers. If you're not familiar with this search just a couple pages back in this forum for a thread about "Balancing big meats". It's far easier and more effective than tape weights.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
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From: Spokane, WA
Originally Posted by Randyb12
I didn't asd about rims. Any ideas on the front suspension and the use of coils vs leafs and the related geometry?
The D60 front has pads for leaf springs I assume. I would go the leaf spring route to avoid some of the issues a trac bar can present. Plus it'll be easier to setup. You can also adjust your ride height buy just fabbing new shackles vs. buying new springs if you go to coils.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by Randyb12
I didn't asd about rims.
Last edited by proeliator; Oct 27, 2004 at 01:28 PM.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 3,739
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From: GANS
Originally Posted by ivanribic
To be honest I can't see blowing the money on beadlocks unless they're doubles. Regular beadlocks still won't prevent your inner bead from coming loose.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 11,945
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From: Spokane, WA
But it does happen, especially on rocks. Just watched a video the other day where a guy with beadlocks lost the inner bead. Funny thing happens when that inner bead brakes and the tire can't spin on the wheel due to the outer bead. $400 and many chunks of rubber later he had it replaced though. 
There are several companies producing good double beadlocks for the same price (even less) as a regular beadlock rim.
There are several companies producing good double beadlocks for the same price (even less) as a regular beadlock rim.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 8,238
Likes: 3
From: Oregon
Thats the thing. While its true that the outer bead sees more unseating forces than the inner, as the tire and hp grows the inner bead can fall victim too. If I already had beadlocks that set only the outerbead I wouldn't be in a rush to sell them, but as Ivan mentioned, you can get double locking beadlocks for the same price as singles these days.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Eureka, Ca.
Originally Posted by proeliator
Thats true, you didn't. But seeing as that the last time you posted in here, you were flipping out, calling us names, swearing up and down how you would NEVER post here again, and would proclaim to everyone that you built your "beast" without any help from us "*****" at fte we are just simply covering our bases. Just trying to be helpfull and educate the newbie (your word) so that he doesn't go postal and flip out again. What, did you really think we all forgot? Yes, we know, your blind
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