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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

2 Cylinders missing

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Old Oct 24, 2004 | 06:18 PM
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Arrow 2 Cylinders missing

My 1985 F-150 has a 5.8L 4v H.O. I noticed that i seemed to be missing on two cyclinders. I can take off the plug wires, and nothing changes. I have checked the plugs, wires, and compression, and all seem to be fine. I took off the valve cover, and everything seems to move fine. The cylinders that are missing are #3 and #8. Does anybody have any idea what else could be the problem.
Thanks
 
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Old Oct 24, 2004 | 09:11 PM
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Cap and rotor could be dirty, or even the plugs on the cap could be loose and not making connection.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2004 | 09:13 PM
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I also replaced the cap and rotor. And I switched wires with another cylinder, and it worked fine.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2004 | 09:22 PM
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i would try replacing thos 2 plugs then, sometimes the plugs can just go bad.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2004 | 09:24 PM
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i've had all the plugs out, and they got mixed up, so the plugs aren't the problem, i'm guessing.. Have you ever heard of a sucked intake gasket or somethingl like that?
 
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Old Oct 24, 2004 | 09:36 PM
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You would have more problems if that was the case. Other than the 2 missing cyclinders what its run like (rough smooth, vibrates, etc.)
 
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Old Oct 24, 2004 | 09:48 PM
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It shoots flames while its cold. It stays on fast idle for a little while when i pull up to stop signs and stuff. But if i shut it off then start it again, it idles normal. probley just the carb sticking alittle. Lately though it has been dieing while i stop in drive or reverse. mabey it has loosened up, and now idles too low. Other than that it runs good. exept for the backfiring and missing.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2004 | 09:53 PM
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and the coolant is alittle dark, but not all of it.
 
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Old Oct 24, 2004 | 11:48 PM
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The fast Idle cam on the carb is perhaps sticking, a good carb cleaner spray will loosen it up, and make it work right...
 
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Old Oct 24, 2004 | 11:51 PM
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Where's the fast idle cam?
 
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 12:41 PM
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I think you have a vaccum leak. 8 and 3 use the same intake runner.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 12:45 PM
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That could be the problem, I was already going to check my brake booster today when i got home. Now i will do a thorough search of all the vacuum lines.
What is an intake runner though?
 

Last edited by jpjahn; Oct 26, 2004 at 01:02 PM.
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Old Oct 26, 2004 | 01:30 PM
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Your vacuum booster is likely ok, unless you feel your brake pedal fall to the bottom while holding it down at a red light. Intake manifolds use runners to deliver the fuel/air mixture from the carb to the cylinder. Could be you need to replace the carb base gasket, or a vacuum line or two, or possibly even the intake gasket. You may find buying an entire gasket kit cheaper than just buying the individual gaskets required. You'll need an intake gasket and valve cover gaskets for sure, may as well do the timing cover while you're at it. If you can, grab a vacuum gauge and attach it to an available port on the intake manifold itself. (Look for a capped vacuum source preferrably, rather than plugging off an existing line and using it's connection.) Then post back with your findings. You'll be looking for needle bounce, and the actual vacuum reading as well. If the needle bounces when the said cylinders miss, chances are you could even have weak valve springs, or a cam lobe that has worn off, worn push rod, etc. Let us know before throwing money at a potential problem that may or may not exist.
 
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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 12:23 AM
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Well, I bought the intake manifold gasket, and the valve cover gaskets, and the gaskets for the carb. When I had the carb off, I decided to inspect it. I have a crack on the base of the carb. It seems that somebody decided to tighten down the nuts too tight, so the base is alittle warped as well. I took off the metal guard that is under the carb so i could test for leaks better. Then i reinstalled the carb without taking off the manifold or valve covers. I also checked a couple of teh caps on the plugged vacuum lines. they were leaking slightly too. Also there is a little lever that I believe does something for the coolant on the drivers side of the intake manifold that was toast, and the diaphram thing behind the carb which i believe is something to do with the EGR is toast as well. So those lines are plugged now. I checked all the plugs now and every one of the cylinders affects it now.
Also the electric choke on the carb is dead. so my choke has been staying on for most of the time.
What would be a good carb to put on there? I want good economy but power too, so probley somethign in the middle as far as performance goes. The carburator is a stock holley carb currently.
 

Last edited by jpjahn; Oct 31, 2004 at 12:32 AM.
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Old Oct 31, 2004 | 04:08 AM
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Just an idea... JB Weld the crack in the carb, maybe double up the gasket so it's quite pliable and will compensate for the distortion.
 
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