Dies, hard start, pinging
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,140
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, OH
Okay, then the PIP in the distributor is probably bad. It's sending odd signals to the computer. What did the codes indicate? 31 is EGR I believe, 11 is all clear... I'm not sure what the 10 code is.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 534
Likes: 0
From: Hoquiam, WA
I picked up a digital readout scanner. 10 is a "separation code", it separates the key off engine off codes, from the continuous memory codes.
Before I changed the ICM, I got 21, 31, 77, 25 while it was running.
After I changed the ICM, I got 12, 16, 13, 77, 25 while running.
I've even tried running it with the SPOUT unplugged.
Patrick
Before I changed the ICM, I got 21, 31, 77, 25 while it was running.
After I changed the ICM, I got 12, 16, 13, 77, 25 while running.
I've even tried running it with the SPOUT unplugged.
Patrick
Last edited by ACESN8S; Oct 28, 2004 at 11:31 PM.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Hoquiam, WA
I took the distributor out this morning, has quite a bit of slop at the base by the gear.
So I'm just going to replace the whole thing.
I see that these came with cast or steel gears, how do I tell? Besides a magnet, because the gear is still on the shaft and the magnet just sticks.
edit:
Nevermind, I was able to have the number ran, it's cast.
Patrick
So I'm just going to replace the whole thing.
I see that these came with cast or steel gears, how do I tell? Besides a magnet, because the gear is still on the shaft and the magnet just sticks.
edit:
Nevermind, I was able to have the number ran, it's cast.
Patrick
Last edited by ACESN8S; Oct 29, 2004 at 02:12 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,140
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, OH
What does the book say about those codes... It should flash a 4 indicating 8 cylinders, then 5 to 15 seconds later and impulse flash, which at that time you need to turn the wheel, press the brake, and goose the throttle. Does it run with the scanner attached? Drive it with it hooked up and see what it does.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 534
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From: Hoquiam, WA
No it will not stay running, even with the scanner attached.
My scanner is a digital readout, so it gives me the code numbers.
I did what you said, turn wheel, step on brake and goose it.
I can only get a 34 and a 13 then it dies.
In my book it says code 34, test condition O,R,C (trucks only): is a EVAP control system fault, voltage higher than closed limit (V8 model only)
13 says RPM at idle out of range/low
Patrick
My scanner is a digital readout, so it gives me the code numbers.
I did what you said, turn wheel, step on brake and goose it.
I can only get a 34 and a 13 then it dies.
In my book it says code 34, test condition O,R,C (trucks only): is a EVAP control system fault, voltage higher than closed limit (V8 model only)
13 says RPM at idle out of range/low
Patrick
Last edited by ACESN8S; Oct 30, 2004 at 05:08 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,140
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, OH
Ok, that sounds like a bad TPS.... Which could cause some of the symptoms..... It can be tested. There are three wires, red, green, and black. The red wire should have +5V with the key on, the black is a ground, and the green is the return to the computer. The green wire should be ~.9 volts at idle, and ~5v at WOT... It should change smoothly through the range. I'd start there now that it's setting other codes.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Hoquiam, WA
Mine only has two wires. Red and Green.
So fart I've only tested it NOT running. 0 volts on both while key is off.
Key ON, Engine OFF: Red has 12.47V and Green has .10V
I'm going to run back out in a second and check it while running.
So fart I've only tested it NOT running. 0 volts on both while key is off.
Key ON, Engine OFF: Red has 12.47V and Green has .10V
I'm going to run back out in a second and check it while running.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Hoquiam, WA
Oops, checked the wrong thing.(Air idle conrol valve)
I checked the thing on the side of the throttle body.
But now it won't start at all.
I checked the thing on the side of the throttle body.
But now it won't start at all.
Last edited by ACESN8S; Oct 30, 2004 at 07:01 PM.
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Elder User
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Hoquiam, WA
OK right item now. It has 5.12v with the key on (red) and 1.2v for the green.
I can't get it to start.
I did notice that in the wiring harness for the Air idle control valve, that there are two wires the same color coming out of the harness and looping through a large gray item that says DIODE on it. The Red wire goes into one side and the Green wire goes into the other. Now the green wire is almost broken in half right at the edge of the diode.
It turns over, but that's it.
I can't get it to start.
I did notice that in the wiring harness for the Air idle control valve, that there are two wires the same color coming out of the harness and looping through a large gray item that says DIODE on it. The Red wire goes into one side and the Green wire goes into the other. Now the green wire is almost broken in half right at the edge of the diode.
It turns over, but that's it.
Last edited by ACESN8S; Oct 30, 2004 at 07:07 PM.
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 8,140
Likes: 4
From: Oak Harbor, OH
Ping is spark knock. Ok, you need to fix the IAC harness... It's now probable throwing a code.... Unfortunately... The TPS voltage is a little high, I'd replace it.. When mine read that high it idled at 1500 rpm.... I think I'd also remove and clean the IAC while your at it, sounds like it's not working.