I adjusted the choke on my truck, after disconnecting it, and in the process cranked it over many times...perhaps too many times? It worked fine before I began this little task.

The engine cranks and turns over like normal. It simply does not 'catch', if that makes sense.

She won't start now, and I'm trying to eliminate what could possibly have gone wrong. I am getting fuel to the carb, I've pulled and cleaned the plugs...

Where can and/or should I go from here? Could it be the coil, distributor, etc?

Chad

 

check all your coil connections, coil-dist. and pos/neg coil connections. sounds like its not getting fire.

 

Is this an automatic choke? Didn't know the 66 had one. Are you sure the choke is open at all? Maybe now stuck shut? What's it look like from above?

Voodo is correct, though you have to think your choke or carb is the issue since you just mesed with it.

 

No, my choke is manual, cdherman. The choke is operating smoothly, and is opening and closing as it should be.

After taking the lead from voodoo, I checked for a fault with the primary and secondary ignition system, and it was testing fine.

Since my ignition system seemed fine, I moved onto the fuel system and lo and behold...when I pumped my accelerator by hand there was almost no fuel to the carb...some but not very much. After opening my fuel filter cannister...wow, was it full of rust! The inside of the 'cup' is extremely rusted and as far as I can guess, is pushing all kinds of crap into the carb.

The fuel pump is a sealed carter so I imagine that I can't get inside of it to check it out...I'll clean the cover, change the filter and see what happends I suppose.

Chad

 

Chad, FWIW, the fuel pump on your 240 is readily available at any parts place -- it was the same for years and if they don't think they have one for a 66, then get one for a 69 etc. I'd bet if its not been replaced in years, you need a new one -- bout $25. Secondly, get a couple of fuel filters and keep one in the glove box -- if you are plugging them with rust. You'll thank me. Finally, removing the tank from behind the seat and dumping the crud out is not that dfficult, though having a friend to help is best. Rinse it several times and you'll reduce the rust burden some. The 240/300 is really forgiving on this regard, as the fuel filter is huge and easily replaced.

Lastly -- if your old fuel pump is the classic style than can be disassembled and rebuilt, you can do that as well. I have a link to a company in Massachusets that sells kits. But the kit costs more than the new pump (new pumps will be the modern "non-rebuildable" type).

 

cdherman,

when I first bought this truck, there were a few parts thrown into the bed, and covered with hay...as of last night, I now know there were old fuel pumps from the truck.

The original pump must've went, and thus been replaced with the Carter that is in there now.

As far as the tank, I had to change it when I bought the truck so it's a 'new' reconditioned tank that is rust free (and now mounted in the bed of the truck). It seems the rust is coming from the filter housing, as it is very pitted and rusted. When I removed the housing from the pump, there was a noticeable amount of rust within the bottom of the housing.

Hopefully, this will solve my problem.

Chad

 

OK, reconnected the pump to the engine, reattached the fuel line to the pump. Verified the pump is functioning properly by disconnecting the line at the carb and cranking the engine. Fuel flow is good.

This leads me to believe that my carb is at fault, sooo...

I took the carb off and ordered a rebuild kit, which will be in soon. While taking the carb itself apart, there was a large amount of rust flakes (from the corroded fuel filter cover) inside and against the screen where the line attaches. Now I don't know if rebuilding the carb will solve my problem, but as I was dealing with a leaking carb to begin with, it can only makes things better.

If anyone has ever opened up or rebuilt one of these Autolite 1100 carbs, I have a question for you:

As the fuel inlet needle sits inside it's tube, it is controlled by the float within the fuel bowl. The needle seems to have a rubber tip and seals the opening where fuel enters from the line via the pump. Is there/should there be a small 'ball bearing' or something along that line above this needle that seals of the hole? I ask this because when I took the top of the carb off, I noticed a very tiny piece of something that looked like half of a hollow ball. As I look at photos of the rebuild kits on ponycarbs.com they show what looks like a few very tiny ball-bearings in the pics.

Chad

 

The rebuild kit will have instructions and a diagram. I have a kit that I used only the carb to intake gasket from, rest is just laying around. I got it from my local Carquest, but they had to order it.

I ended up going to a Carter YF anyhow. Purported (by Ponycarbs, as well as the guys over at fordsix) to be the best 1bbl solution for economy. I got better performance too (which is also supposed to be the case). You have an 1101 carb I hope. Just a big bore 1100. Should have a 1.29 inch venturi. Housing has that stamped or cast on it somewhere.

The Carter YF is a bolt up, including the accellerator linkage. But the choke linkage requires a little skill -- I needed to take a piece of small angle iron and fashion an adaptor to hold my old choke braket from the 1101. Works OK, but not too elegant. I keep looking for a proper bracket -- need to junkyard some. But no one wants to sell just the little bracket.

I do have a functioning (at least it was 6 months ago) 1101. I don't want to part with it, as it is the original. But I would loan it to you if you happen to be in the Kansas City area.

 

You are very generous...and I appreciate the offer. I am about a 24 hour drive away from you, according to mapquest...so I surely could not take you up on the offer. I live in (very) Northern Ontario, Canada.

I've given much thought to moving to a Carter carb, and just having it done and finished. What I think I'll do for now is use the rebuild kit for my 1100 which is only $20 CDN and see what that accomplishes. After taking my carb apart, I noticed how worn many of the parts...how dried out the seals were and how stiff the rubber was.

I checked out your gallery, cdherman, and liked what you did with your dash and gauges.

I seem to be so hung up on doing things the 'right' way, that I often forget to do things the way I like them to be on my truck. lol

take care,

Chad

 

dont confuse your way and the wrong way!! The way YOU wanna do something to YOUR truck is generaly the right way. As I always say " EVERYONE IS ENTITLED TO MY OPINION "

 

A quote to live by!

 

I have to agree with you though, Gordo. I have been swayed by many that have (innocently and very helpfully) offered their advice with what to do with my truck.

Some thinkin' is due on my part...

 

Do you have one of those beer can fuel pumps? I posted in the fuel section as to weather or not these were indeed user servicable. I didnt get much feedback. The can looks as if it would screw off with a small oil filter wrench. Is there a filter element inside? Does unscrewing the thing cause leaks?

Answers to any of these questions would be much apreciated....

 

--- Gregtruck

Very much indeed servicable. Though if its been an eternity since anyone screwed it off, you may mangle the "can" as you call it. A whole new fuel pump is not that expensive in that case. The early 240/300 pumps have a HUGE filter. Guess they were still thinking they were in the era of dirty gas. You can get oilfilter "wrenches", the one with a band that grips the canister, to take it off. I always put it back on just handtight and don't need a wrench. But I change my filter rather frequently (rust in tank). The filter comes with a new rubber seal as well, as costs about $2.50

 

GregTruck,

The unit on my truck is of the sealed type, and it is a carter...so you can change the filter 'can' but you cannot service the unit itself. The original that was on my truck was the type that came with a similar filter but was also user serviceable.

As far as unscrewing it and causing leaks, if you mean does it leak when you unscrew the cannister...yes it does but it's nothing that a small container can't handle. It catches the fuel stored in the filter, but nothing more will leak out.