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I am new here and new to pulling. I have a 77 f250 400 4spd with 4.10 gears and 35inch tires. My motor has been rebuilt but is relatively stock. I did put a new low to mid range torque cam in. I am gonna up grade the ignition and do something with the heads. I just don't know what to do about them. Does anyone have any advice on whats heads to use or what to do to the stock ones? I was thinking of putting smaller tires on when I pull to gain back power. How small should I go? Also I use 4 low and second gear. The only reason I bring this up is when I start my truck bogs and them slowly builds up power. Is there anyway to get a better start without bogging? Any and all advice would be great.
How fast are you letting out the clutch???,How many RPM'S ? is she tuned up???How much sled wiegh??what kinda serface are you pulling on???ie hard/loose
I pulled my 78 2wd in a 6K 2wd class AND GOT 288' with CRAPPY 235/85R16 tires and she just has got a 6 cy Ohh man I love beaten up on the v8 boys(chevy 350)l
I would just drop the clutch at 4000-5000 rpms depending on how high your engine goes and hold it to the floor.
HA HA thats funny, Do you sell drivelines?
now back on topic
Sounds to me like you have a pretty good thing going, I don't think you want to come out of the hole to hard anyway, watch the big boys pull they slowly get into the throttle and get a little momentum going before they get after it to hard,
As far as your engine goes the 351M and 400M have about the best head ford ever came out with stock,(exhaust side anyway) what are you running for a cam, intake and exhaust (headers)?
If I were you I'd look for a set of 33" tires, (BFG all terrains or the like) the smaller tire will help with the motor coming on a little quicker,
One other small piece of advice If you don't already have a dana 60 up front I'd start looking for one,
when pullin find the smallest tire that will wrap around your rims bf goodritch mud terrains work the best for street classes come off the line around 2500 rpms and ride it out itll smoke a bit but wont bog down
You might also want to consider regearing your truck as a good set of AT tires in the 33" range can cost as much as a set of new gears. Oh what type of tires do you have and what kind of shape are they in?
As for a cam you might want to consder a cam that has lots of lift and very little duration, thus equaling more power down low.
As for the clutch, do not drop the clutch without preloading the drivetrain (ex. let the clutch out while holding the brake till you feel the driveline want to move then dump the clutch and hold'er to the floor), if you don't do this you will brake something, most likely a u-joint. This is espically important on tracks that have a lot of traction.
[QUOTE=Skipped_link]HA HA thats funny, Do you sell drivelines?
LOL no i dont. But his drive line would last longer than youd think NP435 with a np205 tranfercase. I had a mud race truck with a mildly built 460 It was a 76f250 the only problems i had was with the drive shaft between the trans and transfercase it would literally shear off. the only time i broke a trans was during a 4lo 2nd gear launch at 5000rpm on asphalt with 39.5 inch boggers, it shattered the input shaft.
Last edited by jesse460; Oct 23, 2004 at 10:10 PM.
the best pullers that i have seen dont let it all hang out at the line, they spin the tires some out of the hole than begin to stand on it and just ride it out till the red flag drops. it would be best if you could find a way to practice somehow...semi with a pressure regulator on the brakes or something... i have also seen guys saw the wheel back and forth,why i dont know, looks like its so that the rear tires dont go through the stuff the front tires ate up.
LOL no i dont. But his drive line would last longer than youd think NP435 with a np205 tranfercase.
Not neccesarily. I did a 5k clutch drop like you suggested and vaporized a one ton driveline. Yes, I have a np435 & np205. Too many variables, but massive clutch drops will break stuff if you have traction.
The sawing the wheels technique is also so the front wheels (in 4x4 class) can get more traction, it alot like what you drivers in the mud pits do, and yes its also so the front tire don't dig such a deep a trench for the back tires.
I did a 5k clutch drop like you suggested and vaporized a one ton driveline.
You still running that monster driveshaft? What did you get again, 1410's or 1480's, or 15-something? If I start breaking stuff, I might get up to the rockwell-sized driveshaft, maybe even the monster semi stuff.
Yea, sure am. Its "only" 1410s though. I had it out beating the tar out of it this weekend and it didn't even flinch. When the search engine comes back up I'll find that original thread and bump it back up with an official update for everybody.
As far as your engine goes the 351M and 400M have about the best head ford ever came out with stock,(exhaust side anyway) what are you running for a cam, intake and exhaust (headers)?
If I were you I'd look for a set of 33" tires, (BFG all terrains or the like) the smaller tire will help with the motor coming on a little quicker,
I guess I will send a pair of my stock heads to the machine shop to get them redone. I have a comp cams 256 with a lift of .486 and .493 they told me that it was a good low end to mid range cam, and thats what I should use. I have an edelbrock performer intake and I am going to get new headers. Are fender well exit headers any good?
that cam is not much of a jump from stock if I remember right. the cam I put into my 400 has 509 intake and 519 exhaust. it pulls great to about 4500/5000 then it starts to drop off.
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