Do you plan to keep the original, quite hefty, cross brace that supported the rear of the engine and bell housing? A lot folks doing what you are doing remove it. The reason I ask is that this cross brace has the very important function of keeping the front cab support bracket from drooping and twisting the main frame rail. There have been several threads on this topic. the downward force on that front cab bracket is substantial. Maybe another FTE person will be kind enough to post links to the relevant threads as i have limited time just now.

 

I absolute want to keep the "quite hefty, cross brace" and all original crossmembers and exact thats a problem ... how to box the whole frame without removing the crossmember.?
I´m not sure if it is a good idea to weld the crossmember to the boxingplates because they are rivited to the framerails
Anybody on here who boxed the whole frame?
I would like to see how you guys did it.

 

Have you fully boxed from font to end? Would you show pictures?

 

Boxing the whole frame is usually only done when using IFS and IRS. Those kinds of suspension need a more rigid frame to work at their best, you don't want the frame flexing, you want the suspension to do the work. That's why MII IFS have such a hefty crossmember, to keep the stock frame rigid.

What is the purpose of your K-member? It appears to be too far forward to support the trans. It wouldn't seem there are any loads in that area for it to resist.

 

Hi Ingo
Lets see what I can do for you. This is in progress. The PO had boxed in the front and back for the Corvette swap so needed to complete the part in between. I had my brother give me a hand as I had no idea what to do and he does. We/he went around the obstacles. The plate with the steel dowel is for the brake booster.



That's him, a bit of a goof at times, lol.

Completed. A cool trick here, but hard to see. Before welding in the plates we drilled holes and welded in nuts about every foot behind the plates. I am using them to hold fuel lines, brake lines and electrical stuff. Actually wished I had added more now that I know more of what I am doing.

This was done be the PO as part of the front install.

The rear that was done by the PO. In this case it was just a small plate to weld the cross member to that holds the rear end up.


Does that help? I have others but this should give you some idea. My motor puts out just over 400 hp and about 420 ft/lbs of torque so I needed something ridged that would stay together.

 

Hey Marten,

thanks for your pics and explanation.
That looks like i consider to do it,
But i´m still uncertain if i should weld the boxingplates to the crossmembers or not !? If not i have weak spots right betweeen boxing and nonboxed crossmember areas.
I can´t perceive details, have you welded the boxingplates to the crossemembers
You removed the "quite hefty, cross brace" right in front of the Cab supports, i want to keep that though.
My 502 ci Ford Big Block Motor puts out 500HP and 500 ft/lbs of torque so i want the chassis as rigid as possible.

 

I welded the plates to the cross members
Not sure what cross member you are talking about in front of the cab supports. If it can be left that is what I would do. The only cross member that you don't see here is one for the tranny mount. I had to make that up afterwards. It is bolted to the frame for future removal.
That motor puts out a lot of power, wow. Safe to assume you will be beefing up the tranny and rear end as well. You will want a wide set of tires on the rear as well.
What type of suspension are you going with? Will the front handle the weight?

 

Hey Marten,
sleepless Night ? .-)
I´m talking about that crossmember, i´m missing at your chassis :



I´m going to bolt to the Transmissioncrossmember to Frame also, for later removals.

In the front i have a TCI Custom IFS with coilovers, maybe i need to get stronger springs later, we will see.
The Engine is almost 120 pounds less now since i have Aluminium Heads and Manifold so i hope its not to "top heavy" .
In the rear i have the No Limit Fat Bar 4 link with coilovers.
we have 285´s on 10" in the rear

 

Interesting, I didn't know I was missing that one. Hope I don't need it. Surprised no one has said anything earlier.

 

I removed the one on my pickup leaving enough to bolt in another I made, this one doesn't hang as low as the original. Makes it easy for removing the transmission..