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I replaced both the T switch and T sensor. As I was replacing the two wire temp sensor I noticed my intake manifold bolt moving. I tightened it and it was really loose. So I did a "might as well" and took the top intake manifold off and found that all the lower intake manafold bolts were loose. So I'm in the process of replacing both intake maniflold gaskets and valve cover gaskets.... "might as well". I will let you know how it runs after I get it back together.
This could explain everything... But why didn't it leak coolet all over the place???
So I got everything back together and went for a ride. MAN, what a difference! Damn thing runs great. I went ahead and filled up the tank and went for a half hour drive. When I got off the freeway the idle was steady and the temp gauge read right on the r in normal. Now I don't know for sure if the temp sensor was the fix on if the manifold bolts being loose was causing the problems, but I know it's running good know. I have to run to grandma's house, about an hour away, to pick up the kids tomorrow. I'll let you know how it did.
I woke up early this morning and couldn't get back to sleep. So I got ready to go pick up the kids from grandma's house a little early. It rained hard last night and grandma lives next to a field. Needless to say, "I FOUND SOME MUD!" The truck is running great. When I got there, the idle was perfect and there was no sputtering or surging. I put it in 4 wheel drive and had a blast. I found a hole about two feet deep of mud and must have run through it a 100 times. The wife said I had a smile on my face and the truck was a mess. I love it.
All I need to do know is paint the hood and I'm all done.
Really glad you got everything Top Notch now. I had an upper intake leaking about (4) months ago and truck couldn't be driven at all. Idled @ 2200 RPM'S all the time. I'm relatively sure your U & L manifolds leaking had a lot do with your problems. So paint your hood and find some more MUD.
I need to know what the idle is suppost to be when warm in park and drive. In park, once warmed up my idle is 7500rpm then drifts down to ~6500rpm. I know this isn't right. When in drive, it idles around ~6000rpm and drifts down to ~5500rpm. I'm going to to a propaine test today and see if there is any more vacuum leaks. It seems to run a lot better but I have started to notice some hesitation at take off.
7500 drifting down to 6500?? Or 750 down to 650 RPM'S. Mine has a manual trans. and idles around 700 after it warms up. Can't imagine an auto. would be much different, but I guess it could.
I couldn't tell you exactly what it's suppose to be, but after it's warmed up it should be at about 800 for an idle and no less than 550-600 in gear stopped w/ the brake on. When my engine is cold, u can start it and it'll hold the RPMs at 1500 for a minute or so and then it'll drop down to 800ish.
no codes, just 11's all around. I tried playing with the idle and timing yesterday and set the timing to 10 BTDC and the idle set to 750rpm with the spout off. with the spout on the idle would drift down to 600 to 550rpms and hunt for a little while. I have a feeling that my dizzy may be one tooth off. At TDC my rotor points to the right bolt on my upper intake manifold. it this close????
By the way, the truck runs much better when I time it to about 30BTDC.
Well, I called a friend of mine, ASC certifed ford mechanic, and told him about what's going on with the truck. He helped me put the engine in the truck. He was baffled and was curious of what kind of spark plugs I put in. I told him Autolite platnium. He said try the orignal motorcraft plugs, why not I've tried everything else. As I was taking out the #8 plug, I noticed that the chrome fuel lines from the fuel rail were not in the clip that is bolted to the tranny. They were sitting on the pipe that goes between the heads, I think it's called an exhaust gas exchanger tube??? Maybe it was causing a vapor lock by heating up the lines??? What do you guys think???
Anyway, I took the battery cable off for an hour to reset the EEC and then I drove out to Tillamook, about an hour drive. Seem to run pretty good. On the way back I hit hwy 8, stop light after stop light. The sputtering problem at take off has gone. I played with the idle when I got home. I have it set to 900rpm and it drifts down to 750rpm in park and in drive it sits around 700rpm.
I found a little water leak on the bottom coolet line on the throttle body. I was going to weld it but was wondering if any has replace their double throttle body with a 60mm single throttle body from a mustang and if they got any better performance from it??? I have a K&N filter system for a 60mm throttle body and would like to use it.
Last edited by clark714x4; Nov 7, 2004 at 02:18 PM.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
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