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You can check the code 81 voltages....but skip my suggestions for code 41 until you're got the coolant sensor fixed. If the coolant temp fixes all your problems than you don't have to check any voltages and you wouldn't waste anymore valuable time...could be drinkin' beers with that time!
I checked the voltage on the Temp sensor before I started it and it was ~5volts, I have and old analog volt meter. I ran it for a minute or two and rechecked it and it was 1.5 volts and then let it warm up to where it normally runs and it was ~.5 volts. So that eliminates the temp sensor.
I've replaced:
Distributor Cap/rotor/wires/coil/plugs
EGR valve and EVP
fuel pressure - bounces between 35 and 38 psi at idle on Schraeder valve.
I've used my propane torch and checked for Intake or vacuum leaks. How much vacuum should I have on the vacuum tree at Idle?
The only things I have not replaces is the TAB and TAD and the EEC.
I'll check the O2 sensor tomorrow when there is some light out.
Well, I went in the house and the kids were screaming and the wife was bi*chin, so I went out in the garge with a beer to let things cool off. I pulled the codes and there was 11 for KOEO and 11 in the memory. Ran a KOER and got code 11. I thought that this tested the O2 sensors, Schraeder valve, TAB, TAD, EGR relay and so on. I thought I understood this thing, maybe that's why I'm getting frustrated.
Remember....I said code 11 means no code (codes also don't immediately pop up...the engine takes time to actually throw a code)....do you now have the gauge on the dash reading like it should? Are those the correct voltages for the temp sensor (I don't have my references with me)....it might be changing voltage but not enough or the correct voltage. I assume you remembered to take the battery off for 1/2hr or so to clear the computer codes. It'll take a little while of driving for a code to be thrown again. The computer waits awhile to make sure it is infact a problem or it would be throwin' codes left and right.
There is a procedure for testing the TAB and TAD with a DVOM(Digital Volt Ohm Meter) and a hand held vacuum pump. I don't have it with me here (at work), but when I get home I will see if I can find it for you. It's in an emmissions manual printed by Haynes. Got mine at Advanced for about $16. I checked mine and they were 14 yrs. old and have about 170K on them and they checked out O.K. I would agree with Mustang about disconnecting the battery and then driving. Then recheck codes.
Remember, there are two different temp gauge sensors. There is one about halfway back on the top of the lower manifold, with two terminals, that the computer gets its readings from. The other is at the front of the lower manifold, has one wire and is where the temp gauge gets its reading from. Completely separate.
I checked the temp sensor with two wires. I'm not that dense. I know that the gauge sensor is basically a resistor and the temp sensor is a rheostat that changes voltage not impedance. Ohm's Law Rules.
Anyway, the wife is riding the cotton pony and I might "have" to work in the garage again tonight!!!! I'll go out and take the battery terminal off at lunch and take the long way home tonight then check the KOER for codes.
I checked the temp sensor with two wires. I'm not that dense. I know that the gauge sensor is basically a resistor and the temp sensor is a rheostat that changes voltage not impedance. Ohm's Law Rules.
Anyway, the wife is riding the cotton pony and I might "have" to work in the garage again tonight!!!! I'll go out and take the battery terminal off at lunch and take the long way home tonight then check the KOER for codes.
Jim
Right but the point is MustangGT221 is saying that the gauge on the dash has to read right and that's partially right. If it reads right it shows us the coolant is actually getting up to the right temperature. But if it doesn't it could be that the coolant is not to the right temperature OR that there is something wrong with the single stud sensor, the wiring or the gauge, which was the reason I brought up that there were two sensors. I personally would trust grabbing the top radiator hose and seeing if it's hot more than that gauge.
I took the truck out for a drive last night after I reconnected the battery. i acted up again. It sputters and jerks off the line. If you floor it it goes away. Anyway I pulled the codes and got code 11 both KOEO and KOER. 11 in the memory. My conclusion is that I have a bad fuel injector , but why would it only act up when it's warm???
it acts like my old 72 nova when the choke was stuck. I'll check the O2 sensor voltages this friday. Any more ideas??? Cheap ones please, this problem is nickle and diming me to death.
Man I wish there was. If you think you have an injector problem are you familiar with noid lights. I saw them mentioned on a post, but have never used them myself. I don't know if this link will make it thru, it may be too long.
I don't mean to be rude but I wish you'd listen to me and fix the coolant sensor. There is a possibility I am wrong, but there is a good chance I am right. It's not that big of a deal to fix...i highly suggest doing it before doing any other kind of work. Either way...good luck.
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