I have a 1990 F150, SC, LARIAT. The drivers side power window will lower but will not go back up. When trying to raise the window I can hear the motor but it will not go up. I can get the window up by pulling up on the window with my hand while pushing the up switch, otherwise it just seems to be spinning.(The power window motor is turning but the gears that raise & lower the track are not engaging? ) I have removed the door panel to try & repair the problem, but there is limited access.
The passenger window does not work. I have not tried to find that problem yet. Hoping it is just the switch. Also the power door lock does not engage/work.

Hoping for some help before I try anything else.

thanks.
BTW, I have been a long time viewer here. This is a great site with very helpful & informative forums. My first post.

 

Take a look at this thread. Specifically the part I posted.

guzzler96

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...d.php?t=296651

 

Sounds like the little wax plugs in the gears. You have to remove the window motor and take the cover off the gear. Should be 3 wax plugs that allow the big plastic gear to engage the metal one that drives the window up and down. Simple fix, just a pain to get the window motor out of the door. Bennett auto and Advance carry the plugs i think. If you cant find the plugs, just use 5/8 nuts. hope this helps

 

I fixed that problem about a month ago. The problem is those 3 little wax/plastic/nylon or whatver-the heck-you-want-to-call them plugs. After taking off the door panel, you have to drill 2 holes to remove the motor. There are 2 small dimples that indicate where to drill. After that, you have access to the bolts holding in the motor. Theres 3 in total, one is already exposed.

You then take off the motor cover. In there you'll see a big gear and a lot of broken plastic. This plastic used to be those 3 little plug things.

You can buy the part at advance for like $30 which includes the big gear and the 3 plastics and some grease. I couldnt find the 3 plastic things by themselves so i had to buy this.

 

I have the same truck as the original poster, and lost both of my PW's back in the Spring. In both cases those 3 little nylon pieces had disintegrated to virtuality nothing.

93Green, for future reference, I found just the little nylon thingies in the "Help" section at a local AutoZone for $5.99 per pack of 3 = $12 to do both window motors. I had also found a source on Ebay @ $5 per pack. Hate that you ended up having to go the more expensive route, but even that is better than $80+ for a new motor. Man I love the tips and info you get from these boards.

Wade

 

Thanks to everyone for the helpful tips. I'am going to give it a shot & try to remove the motor & replace the plastic/nylon pieces. Looks like I have a busy weekned ahead.
This forum is really GREAT!!
While I'm at it I will check the passenger side window, it is completely dead. Hope it is just the switch & not the motor.
Anyone ever repair the power door lock? Mine will not operate.

 

Thanks for the info on Autozone. I might have to fix my other window soon. It looks like it slips sometimes. At least it will only cost $6

 

If you leave the motor plugged up 'til after you get it out of the door you don't run the risk of it dropping down in the door and having to fish it out. It's kinda tight in there.

 

Just to add, the procedure to get at the motor would be to: remove the window/lock switch control assembly. Remove the screws in the door panel. Gently using a screwdriver pry out the door panel at the vertical sides to pop the body snaps loose. Lift the panel up and remove. Remove the speaker for this is where the motor will be removed out from the door. Un-plug the motor.As others have stated drill out the two dipples with a small hole saw to get at the 5/16 bolts securing the motor. Remove the screws using some sticky gum into the nut driver or socket to hold the screws from falling out and down into the door when removing the screw/s. Remove motor out through the speaker opening.With motor out remove the screw out of the cover and using a screwdriver rap the cover pinched area under at the other two corners. Remove the cover. Remove the clip and washer holdng the steel spider gear in place. Remove the spider gear. Clean out the mess out of the plastic gear area and insert the 3 new 1/2 by 1/2 (approx size) nylon round pieces and reinstall the steel spider gear/washer/retaining clip. Install the motor in reverse procedure as removed.Also for some of you who can't find the 3 pcs, the 1/2" od gray pvc water supply tube/lines for sinks, available at most home depots, could be cut to length and used.

 

I work at AZ, and I'm interested in knowing what the part number is for the HELP! parts, if you can remember it, because I don't recall seeing them at my store. I have the very same problem, and it's getting to be a pain to pull the window up all the time.

Yes, this board is really helpful.

 

I happened to be in Autozone and heres the sku # for the 3 small 1/2 round pcs...they call the pack window regulator gear sku# 39749574410. # on package is 74410 and 24-5429-6. The 3 pc pack sells for $5.99.
BTW you can get the entire gear "kit" includeds the large nylon gear and the 3 - round pcs for $15.99.

 

Thanks for posting that my93. Dad's Truck, I'm sorry - I wasn't getting email notification on this thread for a while, or I would have gladly posted the info for you.

Wade

 

No problem, Wade, it happens.

Thanks, my93 - I found the 3-paks at another AZ (bought two), but didn't see the whole kit. I don't suppose you have the numbers for that one, do you? That actually seems like the better way to go, I'm thinking.

 

I bought the plastic gears from autozone. They did not fit. They were a little too big. I tried forcing them in because I thought they were supposed to be tight. They would not go. A messy waste of time. Then I bought the whole regulator from autozone. The bolt holes for the 3 mounting screws were off very slightly. Another waste of time. Now I will try NAPA's stuff. Removing motor was no big deal after drilling holes. Now if I could only find parts that work. Last resort, dealer....

 

I actualoly replaced my nylon spacers with steel ball bearings from my local Ace Hardware. I know these will not disintergrate, LOL! I believe the size was 3/8", its easy to measure once you have the original nylon part in hand.

Note: Just dont leave your finger on the down button too long after it bottoms out....or the motor may bind on you, and you will have to loosen up the motor attatching bolts in order to get it free