[updated:LAST EDITED ON 12-Sep-02 AT 11:03 PM (EST)]Ok, I know this may sound stupid, but my 99 Ranger Sport 4x2 4-banger seems to fish tail a lot in wet weather, and I am noticing it sometimes in dry weather. It hasn't rained that much but yesterday I fish tailed quite a bit. I checked the tire pressure, and all were 31.5 except for the front driverside, which was 20. I don't think I have a leak in that tire tho. Would the low pressure cause the fish tailing? OR is it because I have no weight in the back end? Also, am I correct in saying this truck is front-wheel drive? Should I bring the tires up to 35 psi? How does psi affect the ride?

I am really concerned about what's going to happen if we have a really s...s....sn....snowy (man...that was tough to type) winter. I plan on getting 4 50lb bags of sand for the back end and placing them either right over the back wheels or against the tailgate. I am just worried that that much weight might weaken the tailgate over time. Forgive me for my nievity. I've only been a truck owner for a little over 4 months now....

I just had a mini 30k mile tune-up, considering I bought it in May and figured most everything was looked at and changed. I had some minor things like oil and filter change, and transmission fluid changed. The mechanic put in some new stuff (the name escapes me) that will help smoothen the shifting or something to that effect.

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EDITED: Also, I am noticing that it takes longer and longer to come to a complete stop. This has caught me almost by surprise the first few times that happened. Is that normal? Is that a sign that i need to replace the brakes, even though I just but it in May and only put 4k miles on it????
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Thanks for the help!

 

What brand and style (off-road, street, performance...) of tires are on your truck? Are they worn or relatively new? What is the traction rating on the sidewalls? While your increased stopping distance could indicate a brake problem and shouldn't be discounted, the other symptom (wet and dry loss of traction) could be related to your tires. My 3.0L Ranger can only break the tires loose when the streets are wet, so I suspect that you'll find that the tires are your problem.

Brake wise, have you noticed any difference in the pedal, i.e. does the pedal seem softer, or is it closer to the floor when you press on it? You should check the brake fluid resevoir to make sure that it is filled to the proper level. Also, you should look underneath the truck to see if you have any leaks which would be seen as wet spots on the inside of your tires.

As for winter weather traction, it's a good idea to have some weight in the bed to help in low traction situations. Even here in Texas, where we don't usually see a lot of snow, I carry ~200 pounds of sand in bags, in the bed of both of my trucks ('99 Ranger S/C Flareside, '01 F150 S/C Styleside). The additional benefit is that I can spread it underneath my tires if I get stuck. Just remember to take it out when spring arrives.

With fall just around the corner, you should look into this as soon as possible. Nothing is more miserable than having a vehicle break down in cold wet weather.

Good luck!

John

 

LOL. I saw your response about the FWD issue. No problem.

Yes, put the sand bags in the bed. It will not harm you tailgate for a number of reasons (lack of real power is one). The reason you are fishtailing is because you have no weight in the back end and it is very easy for the rear end to break lose. It will be worse when it snows. Put enough sand in the back so that she is just starting to settle. That will make a difference as well as your tires. You will need a decent rubber on the back.

I wouldn't worry about the brakes yet. The Ranger is the first truck with ABS but no computer to control it. What I mean is that the truck can stop pretty well by really hitting the brakes and the tires will not lock up. It's a weight-tire-traction-brake balance thing.

 

all trucks are REAR WHEEL DRIVE!

 

the ranger easily fishtails. i have the 4.0 v-6 in it and it is horrible. my buddy has the 3.0 v-6 and he warned me to becareful in the rain.

 

This reminds me of my daughter asking what that noise from the rear end was when she went around corners... Answer = LEADFOOT! Learn Throttle control :-)

I have never had any trouble driving my little 4.0L ranger in the snow and ice. I do use four to six sandbags in the bed or a layer or two of patio blocks with a plywood base. The nice thing about patio blocks is that it does not restrict the bed for carrying a load of lumber etc. The patio blocks do represent a hazard if you get in an accident. The sand bags work best centered over the rear axle between the wheelwells. Always restrain the sandbags with a 2x4 or 2x6 frame to keep them from shifting around under braking.

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The sandbags are a good idea just don't put them all they way in the rear (up against the tailgate). Having all the weight way back there does two things. 1) It takes weight off of the front tires, and 2) If you do get to "fishtailing" it will add momentum to the rear end making it harder to steer out of the fishtail.
Put the sand bags over the rear axle or or towards the front of the bed.

 

I have a 2000 ranger and it does not fishtail at all and once I put Bilstien shocks on the rear it no longer hops when going over rough road surfaces.

>the ranger easily fishtails. i have the 4.0 v-6 in it and it
>is horrible. my buddy has the 3.0 v-6 and he warned me to
>becareful in the rain.

 

I'm kinda surprised to hear that anyone's Ranger would fishtail. When I bought mine, naturally I assummed that it would have a problem with traction & fishtailing, since not much weight over the rear tires. However, I've found QUITE THE OPPOSITE! This truck handles great (1985 V6 auto 2WD). I've often wondered if I have a limited slip dif. But even still, it has 200K miles. It would surprise me if a limited slip dif would still be very effective after 200K, but I'm no expert. I do know that tires play a pretty big role. I currently have a set of VERY GOOD snow treads on the rear ("full blown" snow treads, not all seasons). I have NO PROBLEMS at all.

 

I have a different opinion on the weight placement issue. While it seems logical to place the weight directly over the axle, you'll find you can get away using less weight if you move it all the way back. It's the lever principle, and it's easy to prove. Get a tape measure and check the height of the bed from the ground. Have two people stand in the bed over the axle and measure again. Now move them back all the way. Same weight, greater bed deflection, equaling more pressure on the drive wheels.

Point #1 above is technically correct, but it really doesn't apply for just a couple hundred pounds, since trucks have a very forward weight bias to start. Point #2 is also good and something I've thought of as well, but it's a tradeoff I'll accept since the greater force increases the resistance to the fishtail from happening in the first place. Probably the hardest part is finding the ideal amount of weight to use, since there is a point of diminishing returns (and diminishing gas mileage, clutch wear, brake wear, etc.). I've got these 60 lb. Home Depot sand bags and keep 2 at the rear of my short-bed for fall/winter, adding another 2 or 3 when it snows. Combined with limited-slip (no 4WD) and skinny snow tires, I never come close to getting stuck. (Oh yeah, limited-slip rear axles are a BIG factor in fishtailing.)

My two cents...

 

I prefer the weight over the axle, even with my 88 5.0 HO posi Stang.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 27-Oct-02 AT 02:29 PM (EST)]Hey "MickeyP", in reference to limited slip affecting fishtailing (end of #9)...do you think limited slip PREVENTS or CAUSES fishtailing?? The reason I ask is because I've heard both arguments.

 

Based on what I’ve read and my own experience, my answer is: Not quite either. But if I had choose a side, it would towards the side of causing the fishtailing, with the following understood.

Limited-slip CONTRIBUTES to the fishtailing when the *** breaks loose (due to steering input) and the foot is still on the gas. As you know, empty trucks are very light in the back for the obvious reason, so I think that’s the MAIN reason.

Trucks without LS have “either wheel” drive, with the power switching to whichever wheel has traction, essentially one-wheel drive. LS drives both wheels at the same, for (theoretically) double the traction, hence the term “limited slip”. The trade-off is that if driving that second wheel doesn’t provide the desired result of added traction, BOTH wheels spin, fishtailing occurs. Of course, many outside factors determine how bad it is (tires, road condition, amount of weight in the back, amount of “lead” in foot, etc.)

As with most things in cars and life, it's not as black and white as people would like it to be. Classic gray.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 28-Oct-02 AT 01:59 PM (EST)]LS lets you fishtail Easier if you floor it around a curve ... that being said. its tons better than open for snow, straight line accel.
etc.If you floor it with an open you will fishtail just not as bad.
because you are only breakin one wheel lose at a time

Rand

 

OOPs- Mickey are you sure you put this right?

>Trucks without LS have “either wheel” drive, with the power switching to >whichever wheel has traction, essentially one-wheel drive.

Actually without LS the power goes to the wheel that does NOT have traction making it spin, essentially a no-wheel drive. The only power the tire with traction sees is the differential spider friction and reaction torque.

LS or locking rear ends will contribute to fishtailing by almost eliminating any side force (lateral) traction the rear wheels have. With an open differential one tire may spin but the other one is planted firmly on the road to provide lateral traction.



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