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I installed Bearclaw latches in my 51 F-1 a few weeks ago, I installed the latches in the pilar instead of the doors. It worked out very well, I really like being able to close the doors with one finger. Although I haven't installed the new door rubber seals yet. If anyone would like me to e-mail the pictures of the install let me know.
If anyone is interested, I have a set of bearclaws that appear to be about identical to these. Email me off thread. I did the put the stock handles back on thingie. They do work smooth, I just didn't want to jack with the electronics. If you put them in the stock location, a simple cable allows for opening with the stock inside handles.
They do work smooth, I just didn't want to jack with the electronics.
this coming from a man who will have more electronics in his truck than a "Tweeters" warehouse.. I'm just wondering where he'll put the lapton interface unit for his digital multiphased equalizer unit. ???
fess up Fenders, you just can't figure out how that remote keychain thingy works...
this coming from a man who will have more electronics in his truck than a "Tweeters" warehouse.. I'm just wondering where he'll put the lapton interface unit for his digital multiphased equalizer unit. ???
fess up Fenders, you just can't figure out how that remote keychain thingy works...
later
j
..and now............... for the rest............ of the story. My truck also came with some sorry excuse for an electric solenoid opening system. There are much better systems available from AutoLoc than came with my truck. (DO NOT go with the lowest bidder on your shaved door electronics). Anyway, so I proceeded to put the outside door handles back on, all the while, my lovely bride chanting, "what? you're removing the only cool thing about that truck.
Now stay tuned as I surgically replace the door jamb sheetmetal and make it look just like Henry. I'll post a PIC of the master plan before I lay the sawzall to my door. The goal, to weld it in and NOT drive to the Supernats with a big ol primer spot on the outside of my drivers door.
And after two full days of routing audio wire, you are correct J, that was a pretty ludicrous thing for me to say.
this coming from a man who will have more electronics in his truck than a "Tweeters" warehouse.. I'm just wondering where he'll put the lapton interface unit for his digital multiphased equalizer unit. ???
fess up Fenders, you just can't figure out how that remote keychain thingy works...
later
j
Nah, got tired of it flashing 12:00 all the time! LOL!
OK, here's a thought on a stealth emergency release: Drill a hole in the floor under the latch for a 3/8" bolt, weld a 3/8" nut to the inside of the floor. Take a long SS bolt with the threads all the way to the head and remove all but the 1/4" of threads closest to the head, drill a 1/16" hole across the bolt near the end. Screw the bolt in from the underside of the truck. hook an emergency release cable from the latch to the bolt using a heavy duty saltwater fishing swivel hooked thru the hole in the bolt, leaving ~ 1" of slack in the cable. Now if you ever have a power failure, slide under the truck and unscrew the bolt. After a couple turns the bolt will drop down and make a handle to pull the latch release. Otherwise it would look like any other bolt under the truck.
That would work very well AX. You could probably even just put a rubber grommet in the floor hole, and stuff the bolt in with an interference fit.
51Ford
I guess this would be an advantage of your pillar install. With a typical door install, everybody and their brother knows there's a 90% chance you got a trip wire, cable or whatever on the lower corner of the door. Not that someone can't rip your truck off anyway, but a lot of folks are sure making it a little too easy.
I'm in the process of finishing the door operating system. I'am installing the Watsons Streetworks 3 channel opening unit. I plan to run an emergency cable up under the hood, and lock the hood down. I plan to run a piece of flat stock down along side the hood latch and padlock it. I realize this is only enough to keep the honest people out. But most likely if anyone wants in they will just break out the window anyhow. Bottom line if they want it bad enough you can kiss it goodby.
One question what are you going to use to unlatch from the inside?
Chuck
Haven't decided yet, but sense the latch is easy to access by turning your upperbody. I was thinking of using a latch opener kind of like the early Corvettes used. It is a steel ball that slides in an oblong trim piece around it. The Hot Rod suppliers carry them for roadster builders. I would install the trim piece in the upholstery horizional. Put threaded rod through the latch handle and attach the ball on that. That way all you have to do is turn your body run your hand down the pillar for manual opening. Also, I was thinking of using small switches under the dash for opening when ignition switch is off. I have also seen a small hook used to hang the button controller on the doors or dash.
The January 05 issue of Custom Classic Trucks page 15 they used release latches in the overhead console. Looks cool but could hurt in a rollover situation.
looks good but what about the handles or are you doing the shaved handle popper thing
Yes I shaved the doors, kind of wish I would have left the exterior handles there to pull the door open. But they were in sad shape and I didn't want to spend $60.00 for the replacements. I can always install them later if I decide to.
Looking to do the same bear claw latches with my '49 F-47 (canadian made F-100) and using stock, mechanical handles out & in and just wondering which brand is the best fit and/or easiest install??