94 2.3L Water Pump
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
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94 2.3L Water Pump
New guy here. Been reading for a while but haven't the need to post...until now.
I've searched the forum but can't find the exact answer. The water pump went south on my 94 so I went and picked up a new (not rebuilt) one to replace it. Pulled the fan, shroud, radiator, etc with no problem. Even got the old water pump off with no issues - everything is going smooth.
Now I can't get the new water pump on for anything. I've read the Haynes manual and it says to remove the timing chain cover. I've removed this and still can't get it seated. It looks like the actual timing chain housing (not cover) is in the way but I'm really not sure.
Has anyone done this on the 2.3 that can offer advice? It looks like lots of people have done it on the 3.0 and 2.9 but not a lot of info on the four cylinder. Any help is GREATLY appreciated!
I've searched the forum but can't find the exact answer. The water pump went south on my 94 so I went and picked up a new (not rebuilt) one to replace it. Pulled the fan, shroud, radiator, etc with no problem. Even got the old water pump off with no issues - everything is going smooth.
Now I can't get the new water pump on for anything. I've read the Haynes manual and it says to remove the timing chain cover. I've removed this and still can't get it seated. It looks like the actual timing chain housing (not cover) is in the way but I'm really not sure.
Has anyone done this on the 2.3 that can offer advice? It looks like lots of people have done it on the 3.0 and 2.9 but not a lot of info on the four cylinder. Any help is GREATLY appreciated!
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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I surely hope this doesn't sound insulting, but I saw a guy have this problem once so I will ask it ONLY trying to help you out!
On his 2.3L engine, he had to slide the water pump under the thermostat housing and then ease it up to align it with the bolt holes. The lower edge of the thermostat housing protruded out and down just enough to be in his way.
Of course, his was an 83 engine; still, I hope something as simple as that might be your problem with your 94.
I will do some checking and see if I can find out any other notations, cautions, explanations, and the like. I will post them ASAP if I find any!
Good luck!
On his 2.3L engine, he had to slide the water pump under the thermostat housing and then ease it up to align it with the bolt holes. The lower edge of the thermostat housing protruded out and down just enough to be in his way.
Of course, his was an 83 engine; still, I hope something as simple as that might be your problem with your 94.
I will do some checking and see if I can find out any other notations, cautions, explanations, and the like. I will post them ASAP if I find any!
Good luck!
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Thanks for the reply LR - not insulted at all.
It was BARELY hanging up on the timing belt cover and no amount of force would get it past. After some rest and approaching the problem from a different angle, I was able to get it seated. A couple of light taps with a hammer (where would we be without that tool...) got it in place - no harm no foul.
Running and cooling like a champ now with no leaks. Next item is the clutch in a few weeks.
Great forum here BTW.
It was BARELY hanging up on the timing belt cover and no amount of force would get it past. After some rest and approaching the problem from a different angle, I was able to get it seated. A couple of light taps with a hammer (where would we be without that tool...) got it in place - no harm no foul.
Running and cooling like a champ now with no leaks. Next item is the clutch in a few weeks.
Great forum here BTW.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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I really am glad you got it installed after a new approach. (If all else fails, GET A BIGGER HAMMER!! LOL) Seriously, I am glad it all worked out. It was troubling me, for that problem was one I hadn't exactly heard of before. I have been checking several sources I know of--either print or online--and I had found no new information. What I had mentioned about the thermostat housing on that 83 was the only other thing I knew of. I am sorry I was of no real added help to you.
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Spring Hill, KS
Good luck with your clutch! Hopefully things will go much smoother with it...just remember that little needle bearing ...it's not fun trying to get the tranni back in without messing the little needles up with the input shaft!!! Also do a search (here at FTE) for threads about bleeding the clutch afterwards...my 94 wasn't that bad, but others have had terrible fits with theirs!
Good luck and glad to hear that you've got her back together!
Good luck and glad to hear that you've got her back together!
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
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Originally Posted by nightme_02
Good luck with your clutch! Hopefully things will go much smoother with it...just remember that little needle bearing ...it's not fun trying to get the tranni back in without messing the little needles up with the input shaft!!! Also do a search (here at FTE) for threads about bleeding the clutch afterwards...my 94 wasn't that bad, but others have had terrible fits with theirs!
Good luck and glad to hear that you've got her back together!
Good luck and glad to hear that you've got her back together!
Secondly, your clutch kit will hopefully come with a plastic line-up tool. If it does not, you can get one from a parts store for $2-$3. It really is worth its weight in gold!
Thirdly, use the line-up tool to get everything in order as you bolt up the pressure plate. This will, of course, ensure everything is straight and inline!
Fourthly, place a SMALL daub of the Ford molybednum disulfide grease on the very tip of the transmission's input shaft. This will help it slip into the pilot bearing with as little resistance as possible.
I do think Nightme_02's point about bleeding the hydraulic clutch cylinders is right on. To me, that is the most difficult part of the whole job!
KD Tools makes a special tool for disconnecting and reconnecting the hydraulic line at the slave cylinder. It is part number 3413.
I do hope this is of help to you!
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Thanks for the pointers gentleman. I was planning on replacing the pilot bearing and slave cylinder when doing the clutch. Crawling under the truck with a transmission on my belly isn't something I want to do more than once. 
Are the needle bearings loose on the pilot bearing? I've replaced the clutch on a full size Ford (80 stepside) in the past but it was a captured bearing arrangement. As I recall it was no problem at all to replace using a puller.
Are the needle bearings loose on the pilot bearing? I've replaced the clutch on a full size Ford (80 stepside) in the past but it was a captured bearing arrangement. As I recall it was no problem at all to replace using a puller.
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Senior User
Joined: May 2003
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From: Spring Hill, KS
The needles are held in with grease, other than that there is no other means of keeping the needles in place.. I used a slide hammer loaned to me by Autozone to pull my bearing...other than that not a single problem with install...
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