Well I converted my 87 F150 with 302 to MAF last night, used parts and an A9P mustang puter off ebay.

First thing I noticed was how easy it starts. I also noticed a different sound at idle. The exhaust is much quieter when I operate the throttle, a little throttle or alot, and also when slowing down, doesn't do that popping sound.

It has better throttle response.

Biggest thing I noticed is improved shifting on the C6. I'm not sure why since the C6 is not electronic, but it shifts into 2nd alot sooner. I would assume the engine is reaching higher rpm's sooner.

I have afew questions though.

If I advance the timing beyond the 10*, will the computer be confused or try to compensate for a non standard timing adjustment.

Also, my throttle body has connections for the evap canister. Will this cause problems with air getting sucked in and bypassing the MAF sensor, similar to an intake manifold leak.

The costs were:
MAF $30
A9P computer $85
Wiring harness for hacking $15
custom intake using some junkyard parts and flex fittings about $60

total is under $200, and about 4hrs of time. it would have been less time but I did a few extra things. I removed the 300k injectors and installed injectors which had been sonically cleaned and tested, replaced the fuel rail about 3 days later. I also made a "patch" harness to go between my trucks original harness and the Mustang computer. I didn't want to hack the original truck harness, or change pins around.

Definetely a mod worth the time and effort and $$$.

Brian

 

Yup...I can totally agree and make sense of the results you've had. I did the MAF swap on my truck and it makes a big difference.

The change in starting I noticed as well....the actual exhaust tone change you heard was probably from the actual airbox modificiations. That whole airbox setup before the throttle body has a big affect on the actual tone of the engine. When I put my ram air hood/airbox setup in it totally changed my exhaust note by making it a lot deeper/throatier on hard acceleration. It almost gave you the sense of being able to feel the exhaust vs just hearing it...it was great. I've modified that since and it's changed...but I plan on bringing it back to that status by making my own airbox for my new motor.

About the timing, that's your base timing...the computer doesn't adjust that. It will advance the timing for different situations (or retard it) but it doesn't change the base line timing. You can move that up but be careful of pining/detonation (might want to use premium fuel).

 

Hmm, I experienced exactly the opposite starting conditions for some reason. The stock EFI system would fire almost instantaneously, whereas the mustang system takes a little longer to hit. What MAF meter did you use? I wouldn't really worry about the canister purge, as it doesn't allow enough air through to make much of a difference.

 

Thanks for the answers guys.

The MAF was out of a 92 Taurus with a 3.8L, found it on ebay. If you want i can get the part number off it for you. There was alot of competition for Mustang MAF's on ebay, so I found a cross ref list somewhere and looked for MAF's from those cars/years/engines instead.

I'm hoping this will help my gas mileage some, any little bit helps these days.

Brian

 

That's awesome, I'm sure you got that taurus maf for much cheaper than a mustang one.

 

Hey thats cool, i want to do it to my truck(95 5.0l 5sped 4x4) what is the part # for the MAF, what coumputer do ineed and what part of the wireing harness do i need as well??

If there is anything else i need for this, please let me know, i want to do this to my truck before i do my headers, intake and other mods i would like to do

Thanks for all the help
Russ

 

Check out this site - http://brembs.net/cars/maf_conversion/

Bjorn goes over what needs to be done with the wiring harness. Basically you need an engine computer from a 5.0 mustang, 89-93 are the easiest to find. The most common catch code is A9L for manual transmissions, A9P for non electronic automatics. Also, if you like, you can search my user name for old posts - I've done the swap and posted a thread about it. It's not terribly hard, it's just tedious and time consuming to get everything correct. Also, you don't have to follow precisely Bjorn's swap, since he used a lot of custom parts that aren't really needed for a basic MAF swap. Ask if you think of anything else.

 

This is what I copied and pasted to a text file for reference, it was posted on an ebay listing. I only assume the info is correct.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Ford pt# is F1ZF-12B579-AA. According to my cross reference, this meter will fit the following vehicles:
1988-1993 Mustang 5.0L (except Cobra and `93 California)
1991-1993 Ford Thunderbird & Mercury Cougar w/5.0L or 3.8L (except `93 5.0 California)
1989-1990 Ford Taurus w/3.0L
1991-1995 Mercury Sable w/3.0L
1991-1995 Ford Taurus & Mercury Sable w/3.8L
1991-1995 Taurus SHO
1991-1994 Lincoln Continental w/3.8L
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Ebay had most of the stuff. I got a harness from a Crown vic with 302 to get connectors for fuel injectors and MAF. I made a new harness for the injectors rather than unwrapping the truck harness and tearing all that stuff apart.

The A9P computer is supposed to be from the Mustangs with the C6, and is reported to have a more aggressive fuel curve at the low RPM range to make up for the C6 being such a dog. I just happen to have a C6(but not for long) so it worked well for me. I don't know if you can use it with a manual transmission.

The intake was probably the most challenging part for me. You need to go from the dual intake to single for the MAF. I used an intake assembly from a 94 F150 with a 302 with MAF, it took alot of calling to junkyards to find one. Dealer wants about $90 for a new one.

Also check www.fordfuelinjection.com That site has good wiring diagrams and pinout for the car and truck computers, which I found very useful.

 

well if your looking to do the swap into a manual truck/car u need the A9L. ok now what exactly did you hack up to make it work with your trucks harness and have the maf wiring in it? or what. sorry if this is confusing, im confused, cause id like to be able to do my swap without finding a 5.0 maf harness, because thats been the hardest part for me to find

 

you don't need a 5.0 MAF harness. You need to get at least a MAF connector, and probably about 2 dozen pins to add wiring to the computer connector on the trucks wiring.


You can use your existing injector connectors, but they are wired for MFI, so you need to rewire them (indivual wire for each injector). I decided to make a new harness and leave the trucks injector wiring alone.

The MAF is just 4 wires power, ground, and 2 other wires.

There are some wires that need to be disconnected at the computer connector. The Stang didn't use the knock sensor or power steering pressure switch, so remove those. also TAB and TAD solenoids use different pins at the connector, so they need to be moved.

 

well could you possibly email me going more in depth? please

thx