How do I replace resister wire?
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Tuned
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 279
Likes: 0
From: Western PA
How do I replace resister wire?
I want to run a full 12 volts to the coil and "assumed" resister wire would have a connector at each end. BUT it only unpluggs at switch end and the other end is moulded into the black plug that goes thru firewall. If I splice into wire a couple of inches from plug will that short piece overheat? Can I take a nail and punch resister wire out of black plug from engine side? What does everyone else do?
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 157
Likes: 0
From: Buckeye, AZ
I just tapped into resistor wire close to the ing switch and ran the new wire directly to the coil through an existing groumet in the firewall.
As to the old wire, I just taped it up and tucked it out of the way.
Keith
As to the old wire, I just taped it up and tucked it out of the way.
Keith
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,565
Likes: 9
From: Sun River St. George
Easiest is to simply abandon the resistor wire in place and run a new coil wire from the switch through the firewall to the coil. I have an automatic truck and ran the speedometer cable through the floorboard hole for the clutch. This freed up the hole in the firewall for the speedometer cable and I ran several wires through there. I found a rubber plug at NAPA "Help" and a little silicone seals everything up nicely.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,565
Likes: 9
From: Sun River St. George
HandX2, Point ignition systems ran on less than six volts and only recieve 12 volts at start up from the starter relay "I" post. Modern electronic systems work the same way. Running 12V to the coil will cause the coil to overheat and fail. Ford uses resistor wires in our old trucks to prevent this. Some coils are internally resisted as well and others use a external ballast, all in an effort to reduce heat in the coil and extend the life of the ignition system.
Freshman User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 44
Likes: 0
From: Sidney, NE
Hi, I just installed my Pertronix II and FlameThrower II in my pickup last week. I tested my hot wire to the coil and got about 12 volts to the coil in the run position (not start). I check the points and they were burnt up and the coil was leaking oil (not good) so I hooked up the Ignitor II to the coil wire. Now thinking about It should I run a new coil wire?? It is running good now but I wonder if I am always getting the right voltage. BY the way what color is the coil wire under the dash?
Thanks
Macs 64
Thanks
Macs 64
Logistics Pro
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 3,565
Likes: 9
From: Sun River St. George
Pertronix needs 12V and their coil also works on 12V as it is internally resisted. You need full 12V at the coil in start and run mode and you get both from the switch. You do not need the brown wire from the starter relay "I" terminal. The resistor wire on slicks under the dash is pink. If you want to be sure you have clean 12V install a relay using battery voltage, with new wire and just use the ignition switch power to close it. This way the power from the ignition switch only closes the relay and so having 12V is not as critical. The clean battery voltage flows from the battery, through the closed relay to the Pertronix. This is over kill but if you live in a cold climate or enjoy wiring up relays you may want to do this. I like relays because they take the pressure off our 40 year old switches and provide clean battery voltage to do whatever work you are trying to do. There is a good article here on FTE about using relays to operate headlights. Check it out! "Whiter whites and brighter brights"
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 186
Likes: 0
From: river ridge,La
william,ithanks for the info on the resistor wire.i`ll eventually install the petronix system,but the cost is prohibiting it for now.as to the headlight relay,approx. how much does this cost and how long does it take?thanks for the help..........wayne
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