Bail me out
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Elder User
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Bail me out
This weekend I started sanding down my bed (the outter portion, the inner has Rhinoliner) to get it ready to paint. I used a Makita 8" buffer w/100 grit paper. I didnt realize how much paint that thing would strip away. Before I knew it I had that thing down to bare metal in over 70% of it. Here is my dilemma, I started to prime it, but my gun seems to not want to shoot the primer out as it should. The gun is brand new (Coleman powermate) the air pressure is down to 50psi. I reduced the primer to 1 part primer and 1.5 lacquer thinner as the directions specified. I'm having a helluva time with this....how do I get a nice even coat and not get all these runs in the primer? I'm holding the gun about 6-8" away from the vehicle. Next, once I do get this thing primed what kind of paint do I need to use that will be best with a lacquer based primer? I do plan to clear coat as well if that matters. Any tips advice would be greatly appreciated.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
Well, the lacquer primer is old school. I would recommend removing it and applying a coat of epoxy primer and 2-3 coats of 2K filler primer.
Assuming you don't want to, then I would recommend applying a final coat of epoxy primer over the top of the lacquer primer. Your basecoat/clearcoat have strong solvents. The epoxy primer should prevent swelling and lifting problems when you apply your basecoat/clearcoat.
I am not familiar with your paint gun. Runs usually indicate you are trying to apply too much paint, too fast. Take a look at this troubleshooting guide for information on runs.
Well, the lacquer primer is old school. I would recommend removing it and applying a coat of epoxy primer and 2-3 coats of 2K filler primer.
Assuming you don't want to, then I would recommend applying a final coat of epoxy primer over the top of the lacquer primer. Your basecoat/clearcoat have strong solvents. The epoxy primer should prevent swelling and lifting problems when you apply your basecoat/clearcoat.
I am not familiar with your paint gun. Runs usually indicate you are trying to apply too much paint, too fast. Take a look at this troubleshooting guide for information on runs.
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Joined: Aug 2004
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Check the paint cup vent. I had a similar problem shooting 2 part epoxy primer on a warm day. The vent in the paint cup cap got plugged with dried paint, thus a vacuum had developed in the cup and very little paint got through.
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Joined: Sep 2004
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I hope after you scratched the hell out of it with 100 grit you worked ya way up to at least 320 to get the vicious scratches the 100 made cause no primer is going to fill those scratches.
And like Aeiksu said about runs I agree.... try moving faster on your passes.
And like Aeiksu said about runs I agree.... try moving faster on your passes.
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Didn't quite get to 320 but I did get to 220. Can't seem to find 300+, gonna go check some body specialist stores tommorrow. I got one coat of Duplicolor sandable primer (rattle can aerasol) on it tonight. I just can't get the hang of the compressor and gun. I know i need to do several more coats of primer....and sanding, but here is my next question. Just exactly how smoot does the primer coat need to be? Will very very small scratches/swirls show up through the paint? When I say very small, I guess I would compare them to scratches that a heavy duty rubbing compound would leave if that helps the description. Thanks again.
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Joined: Mar 2003
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From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
Your final sanding (just before you apply your color coat) should be 400 grit for solid colors or 600 grit for metallics. If your scratches are less than what 400 or 600 leave, you are rtr (ready to rock).
Your final sanding (just before you apply your color coat) should be 400 grit for solid colors or 600 grit for metallics. If your scratches are less than what 400 or 600 leave, you are rtr (ready to rock).
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Once again Aekisu is on the money, wet sand the primer wit 400-600, I always tend to use 600 and just feel with ya hand for smoothness. If you can't feel it the basecoat and clear will handle the rest.
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Next question. I am currently using Dupli Color sandable primer (hot rod primer). I'm pretty certain it is lacquer based. Planning on doing a base coat/clear coat process. Is this primer compatable with that process? I've been told this primer will not work with the urathane base/clear? Is this true? Or am I completely wrong and this Dupli Color is not at all lacquer based? From what I can tell on the can as far as ingredients....ketones and touene...whatever that means. If they aren't compatible, will I have to sand all of this primer off and reprimer?
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Elder User
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 999
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From: Willamette Valley Oregon
<cr>
If it is lacquer based, you will run into lifting problems when you apply the basecoat/clearcoat. There are two solutions to that problem.
You can remove the lacquer primer and replace it with epoxy and 2K primers. If it was my rig, that's what I would do since the lacquer primer will be the weak link in your paint job.
The other options is to apply an epoxy sealer/primer, over the lacquer primer, before you apply the basecoat/clearcoat.
If it is lacquer based, you will run into lifting problems when you apply the basecoat/clearcoat. There are two solutions to that problem.
You can remove the lacquer primer and replace it with epoxy and 2K primers. If it was my rig, that's what I would do since the lacquer primer will be the weak link in your paint job.
The other options is to apply an epoxy sealer/primer, over the lacquer primer, before you apply the basecoat/clearcoat.