Dieing when cold
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Freshman User
Joined: Oct 2004
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Dieing when cold
When my '70 F100 (360) is cold, I have to sit there and keep revving up the engine until it's warm or else it'll die. I realize that it's carb'd and that's normal, but I was wondering if there's an adjustment or something that'll keep it from dieing? A friend of mine's '74 F100 (240 straight 6) will drop the revs down very low, but it won't quite die.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 54
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From: Jacksonville Fl.
Is the choke working? If not, check the tube that runs down twards the manifold. Mine was disconnected and twisted off before I bought my truck. Guess they did it when they put headers on it.
If you live in a cold area you could always put a manual choke on it with a cable running inside the cab.
Or perhaps Im way off and its not choke related at all.
Sharkdance
If you live in a cold area you could always put a manual choke on it with a cable running inside the cab.
Or perhaps Im way off and its not choke related at all.
Sharkdance
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
Likes: 1
From: Near Fresno, California
Also, there should be an adjustable fast idle cam on the linkage that speeds the engine up when the choke is on. When starting a cold engine you should push the throttle to the floor to allow the choke and fast idle cam to engage, then release the throttle. Spin the starter and the engine should start, if not you can pump a shot of gas to help it along.
Once the engine has warmed up, you will have to bump the throttle to allow the cam to drop free for a normal idle.
Once the engine has warmed up, you will have to bump the throttle to allow the cam to drop free for a normal idle.
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Freshman User
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Originally Posted by sharkdance
Is the choke working? If not, check the tube that runs down twards the manifold.
Originally Posted by WillyB
Also, there should be an adjustable fast idle cam on the linkage that speeds the engine up when the choke is on. When starting a cold engine you should push the throttle to the floor to allow the choke and fast idle cam to engage, then release the throttle. Spin the starter and the engine should start, if not you can pump a shot of gas to help it along.
Once the engine has warmed up, you will have to bump the throttle to allow the cam to drop free for a normal idle.
Once the engine has warmed up, you will have to bump the throttle to allow the cam to drop free for a normal idle.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
Likes: 1
From: Near Fresno, California
You can watch it as you move the linkage by hand - should be part of the accelerator linkage. What sort of carb do you have? Maybe we can find a picture.
The lines to and from your exhaust manifold provide warm air for the coil in the choke - there should be one (soft?) from the air horn that provides filtered air to a "stove" built into your exhaust manifold, and one (hard) that takes the heated air up to the choke housing. Internal passages in the carb draw this hot air through the coil in the choke and down into the intake manifold.
The idea is that as the engine warms up, the coil in the choke also warms up and opens the choke.
The lines to and from your exhaust manifold provide warm air for the coil in the choke - there should be one (soft?) from the air horn that provides filtered air to a "stove" built into your exhaust manifold, and one (hard) that takes the heated air up to the choke housing. Internal passages in the carb draw this hot air through the coil in the choke and down into the intake manifold.
The idea is that as the engine warms up, the coil in the choke also warms up and opens the choke.
New User
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8
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stove's bottom pipe
I have the same problem. My 71 302 2bbl auto lite stalls after start. I have to give it gas for several minutes to allow it to warm up. I think I also suffer the same piping problem. I'll try to describe:
On the passenger side exaust manifold two 1/4 pipes run out of a bulge in the manifold (is that the stove?). One from the bottom to a rubber hose that connects to the top of the carb, running to the air intake, within the filter. The other pipe runs out the top of this bulge to the choke and has the cloth sheath around it. My bottom (bulge to air intake) pipe has broken off at the bulge. It probally happened when a spark plug was being pulled. It is really in the way of the plug closest to the passenger area. I tried to JB weld it back, then lock tite - both no good.
Is this the problem? How do I fix it?
On the passenger side exaust manifold two 1/4 pipes run out of a bulge in the manifold (is that the stove?). One from the bottom to a rubber hose that connects to the top of the carb, running to the air intake, within the filter. The other pipe runs out the top of this bulge to the choke and has the cloth sheath around it. My bottom (bulge to air intake) pipe has broken off at the bulge. It probally happened when a spark plug was being pulled. It is really in the way of the plug closest to the passenger area. I tried to JB weld it back, then lock tite - both no good.
Is this the problem? How do I fix it?
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 5,231
Likes: 1
From: Near Fresno, California
71 F100 - yes that is a problem. The hose to the air cleaner is the cold air into the manifold heater, the other the warm air from the heater to the choke - it provides the heat that relaxes the coil in the choke housing. The cloth is an asbestos wrap to insulate and keep the air warm. Without this line being connected your choke will not work right.
The tube just pushes into the manifold so replacing it with some other tube is always an option. You can also change out the choke for a later model one that uses an electric heater - just connect the wire to the stator winding of your alternator.
The tube just pushes into the manifold so replacing it with some other tube is always an option. You can also change out the choke for a later model one that uses an electric heater - just connect the wire to the stator winding of your alternator.
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