i am goin to build this engine when i get home in 6 months so if i could get a estimated hp rating i would appreciate it.ok it will have a edelbrock performer intake,holley truck avenger 770 auto choke, lunati cam adv.258/266 @.050 210/218 @valve.487/.504 @lobe .285/.295 lobe sep of 114.DUI distributor.pre72 timing chain, TCI hole shot torque conv.2400 stall.c-6 trans. w/np205detroit lockers front and rear w/5.13 gears.40 in. super swampers.now the part i dont now about it has factory heads on a 79 460 4x4.im not sure what comes on them so i would like to build them up to try and save money.so if u have any ideas on buildin those heads please let me know . i would like to see 350 r/w horse power if possible . also what frontend and rear end would it take to hold up to this as it will be drove very hard alot.thanks kevin



also i am tryin to get around 350 hp at the rear wheels

 

The heads will most likely be D8, but you can cheaply find D3 or better yet c8/c9/d0ve heads. D3 with proper porting are way good for 350 rwhp. The D8 heads are not to bad with good quality porting, but the overall potential is far better on the others and the cost is very resonable if you can port yourself. If your paying for all porting and head work, its really better to buy a set of allum heads complete from Summit Racing or the likes, for about the same cost as paying to get your iron fixed up, you can get the allum ones that are much lighter, can be repaired, and will have the overall ability to make more power. Here is the description of the Trick Flow heads from summit for 1795 complete:

Trick Flow A460 big block Ford race cylinder heads are machined from A356-T6 aluminum and feature 340cc intakes, 172cc exhausts, 91cc chambers, bronze alloy valve guides, tungsten seats, big Chevy exhaust port openings and bolt pattern, and 1.760 in. spring pockets. Assembled heads come with 2.30 in. intake valves, 1.88 in. exhaust valves, 1.640 in. dual valve springs for up to .850 in. lift, 10 degree titanium retainers, 10 degree machined locks, Viton seals, ARP 7/16 in. rocker studs, and guideplates for 3/8 in. pushrods.
The one catch on these is that you will must goto headers for your truck and cut the flanges off right at the weld to primary interface, buy 454 Chevy flanges and spread your primaries a bit and have them rewelded to the 454 flanges. Then to install, you just cut the flange on each side into 4 seperate flanges with a recip-saw or hacksaw.

If that is too expensive, stick with the iron and home port the exhaust, have a local shop do the standard overhaul and use SS valves on the exhaust.

For those tires and that power level I assume your going to do some rock crawling or mud play, go with a Dana 60 front if you can find one, or a Dana 44 front with all the aftermarket goodies. The rear end is a simple swap to a Dana 70. A Dana 60 with Mooser axles will not break axles, but the ring and pinion will still bust regularly under hard use.