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Black3IndegoI have a hydrolic clutch that I just replaced about 3 months ago. I have no holes in my lines but I cant seem to get all the air out. I have pumped and pumped and pumped the pedal and sometimes I can shift smoothly and other times it is harder the He!!. Any Idea's?
I've played that game too. Finally gave up and made a power bleeder out of a one of those cheap pump up yard sprayers. Just dumped a big bottle of brake fluid in it, pumped it up, pulled the line off of the clutch reservoir and attched the business end of the sprayer to it, opened the valve and climbed under the truck and opened the bleed screw and let her run until all the air was gone. (took most of the fluid in the pump) but when I was done the clutch worked like it was straight off the showroom floor. If you need a better explanation or some pictures shoot me a PM
I'm having problems with my clutch as well. I starts to grab real smooth and then it hooks real hard out of no where as if I was 'popping the pedal'. Shifting through gears is sticky too. It ALWAYS does it, its never smooth. The clutch was replaced about a year ago and its had almost 2,000 miles on it since, so its broken in.
I hope its something easy like air in the lines. stuipd hydralic, I'm all for cables. Any ideas??? Its really getting me annoyed, I can't take anyone for a ride in it beacuse it makes it seem like I never drove stick before.
yes mind is doing that sticky stifting crap too. Sometimes I cant even get it into gear without pumping the clutch up first. For example. I get in my truck in the mornig to go somewhere. I shift to first it takes off fine, the I shift to second and I can't unless I pump the clutch about 4 or 5 times. Then by that time it bogs down on me cause the rpm's are not high enough. Third is the same way but forth is fine. Then when I shift down third and second are the same and first (it is granny low so I am to just about get stopped before I can shift it there) works fine. I just wonder if I need a new line or something.
I've tried everything as far as bleeding. As of now i'm driving my truck with the system just gravity bled. When you bleed these you cannot allow the pedal to hit the floor while pumping, and also, these systems are not like bleeding brakes. You push the pedal to about an inch off the floor, open the bleeder, close the bleeder and do it again. Do this for a while. Also, i have read in the ford manual that it is good to pump the pedal with the master cylinder cap off about 50 times then bleed noramally and keep doing this till all the air is out....Make sure to NEVER let the master run dry of fluid or you have to start all over again.
sounds realllllyyy FUNN!!! I will be replacing my clutch this wednesday... too much hot roodding. So once i get it all back together, i need to push the pedal down to about 1 inch from max, and then bleed? Should i put a rope from pedal to steering wheel so i can only go to 1 inch from max?
Sorry it took me so long to get back to this been a long weekend. Instead of my making and instruction manual I found someone else that had done it for me. The only difference is that I cut off the sprayer tip after the on/off valve ( makes it a lot easier and cleaner when you're done) and attached a piece of clear pvc tubing to that. Then got a barb splicer ( little plastic tube used to join 2 pieces of hose together) put it in the end of the pvc and yanked the line off of the clutch reservior and pushed the other end of the barb into the hose. Here is the link you need. http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm
Black3IndegoI have a hydrolic clutch that I just replaced about 3 months ago. I have no holes in my lines but I cant seem to get all the air out. I have pumped and pumped and pumped the pedal and sometimes I can shift smoothly and other times it is harder the He!!. Any Idea's?
I dont know if this has anything to do with it but check to see if you clutch master cylinder on the firewall broke free because of the spot welds not holding up.have a 87 F250 that the welds broke loose and had some problems shifting,drilled some holes put some nuts and bolts and it been working fine ever since.
I had to replace my slave cylinder on my 95 F150 back in January. I replaced the clutch while I was at it. I replaced the clutch master cylinder about 3 years ago. When I bleed the system the first time when I did the master it took a LONG time to get all the air out. When I did the slave I had all the air out in 5 minutes. I guess the air just gets trapped sometimes. I prefer the old mechanical clutch linkage on my 82 F100. I believe that 1983 was the last year of mechanical clutch linkage after that they started adding hydraulics.
I had to replace my slave cylinder on my 95 F150 back in January. I replaced the clutch while I was at it. I replaced the clutch master cylinder about 3 years ago. When I bleed the system the first time when I did the master it took a LONG time to get all the air out. When I did the slave I had all the air out in 5 minutes. I guess the air just gets trapped sometimes. I prefer the old mechanical clutch linkage on my 82 F100. I believe that 1983 was the last year of mechanical clutch linkage after that they started adding hydraulics.
I Agree, I'm all for cable. You can look down in the engine bay and see what the problem is. Simple. My mustangs have cable's anyway.