The connector on the Driver's side is the MLPS. It is not difficult to upgrade to the new style connector. Just keep the old silicone wire keeper in place while you're installing the new silicone wire keeper and connector parts.

I disagree with BikePilot regarding where to purchase the MLPS. If you go to Ford, you'll pay around $100.00. If you go to NAPA, you'll pay around $50.00. Everything in the box from either Ford or Napa was exactly the same thing. The NAPA MLPS had Ford's name on it and the Ford part#.

In the box you should get: the MLPS, several silicone wire keepers (depends on year and type of vehicle as to which one you use), the three parts of the connector, and an instruction sheet.

Regarding the connector on the passenger side. It is the solenoid block connector(the solenoid block also has the TOT, Transmission Oil Temperature sensor within it, but I don't think you can replace the TOT except by replacing the entire solenoid block). The solenoids are what are mechanically responsible for shifts occuring. The wires leading out of the block go to the P.C.M. (powertrain control module, or simpler, the computer). You were right not to pry on either connector. They both have locking tabs on either side of each connector which need to be carefully pryed as little as possible to get the connector to come out and yet keep the locking tabs intact to keep the connector securely fastened to the MLPS or the pin block when they are connected again.

BikePilot is sure right about the electrical harness. It is neither easy to replace nor cheap to replace. Besides, I very much doubt it is the cause of your problems. You ought to read through the docs you have and do the tests on the sensors to find out if they are all sending the proper parameters to the PCM. The sensor docs you need to be concerned with in the "Troubleshoot" folder are:

1. MLPS.wri
2. RPMsensor.wri
3. TPSFIPL.wri
4. VSS.wri

and possibly the

5. T.E.C.A.wri

I doubt if any trans. shop would include an electrical harness in a rebuild of your transmision. They'd do it for you, but you'd pay plenty extra.

Another note for both of you, Look at the PartNos.wri file and the RPMsensor.wri file. The part number for the RPM sensor should be:

E5TZ-17B384-A instead of what I think you have, E5TZ-17384-A. Sorry about the mixup if you have the number WITHOUT the "B" in the middle. Shows me a good reason to clean up my HardDrive.

Write back watcher, if you need things to be clarified further. R.A.

 

Thanks for all the info, I think . All of this makes me think I shouldn't have retired my '64 Ford. Even with the solid lifters and the knuckle burning cross over pipe.

Rest assured I'll need more help.

 

Watcher,

I know it's another expense, but it you plan to try to fix this problem yourself, a code scanner would really help. Usually the overdrive light will begin to blink. This is the computer telling you it's finding something wrong with it's ability to shift properly, and has stored the code in it's memory to tell you what it thinks is wrong,should you draw the codes with a scanner. A cheap one, such as made by Actron, costs under $30.00. You can also take the truck to a trans. shop, or a Ford dealership and have them draw the codes, but then you have to get back out with your shirt on.

But as was the case with mine, though I had 4 different sensors showing bad when I drew the codes, and the trans. shifting all kinds of wierd, the overdrive light never blinked once. Go figure. R.A.

 

im thinking about buying my beddies truck. it is a 94 turbo with a bad injectoin pump and a bad e4od, i think that if i buy it it is getting an old school c-6 with a gear vendors overdrive, can't go wrong there and its about the same price. 2500 for the gear vendors plus 600 for a rebuild-shift kit, what can you get a new e40d for?? 3000?? i'd give the extra penny and wouldn't have to worry about it for a LONG time! thats just what i think. unless you want to go with a zf 5 speed standard...?? it would be easier to go with the c-6 if you are low on cash, these trucks used to run forever with these c-6's a little rpm's never hurt no idi,

 

i had a similar prob it was a bad wire on the speedo sensor on the rear diff i had my trans pulled apart put in a new converter before i found the problem myself
my symptoms were the speedo jumping eraticly and sometimes staling in reverse it felt like the trans was binding when it was pulled down there was nothing wrong when the wire finaly let go completly the trans would shift up and down the converter would lock up in reverse the brake in the wire was about 8 inches from the sensor i hope this helps you the wires are cheaper than a rebuild cause i know

 

Hey Dieselzen. Any chance those files are posted somewhere on a site we can download?
I been getting a code 62 on my '94 F350 / e4OD turbo.
Before I throw too much money at it, I really want to run some tests.
Looks like my MLPS sensor is already converted to the upgraded version as well (previous owner).

I get a code 23 no matter where I put that TPS sensor as well.
At this point, the only voltage I have not tried is 1.2 at idle.
(Tried 0.9, 1.0, 1.1 all at idle with the fast idle solenoid disconnected.)
Oh well, I'll try 1.2 this weekend.....

I will be fine for a few days, then the OD light starts blinking and the 'massive shift kit' shifting occurs.
As soon as I clear the codes, the light is off, and the shifting is as smooth as a new tranny. It is not uncommon to see me pulled over on the side of the road hood up and pulling / clearing the codes to keep the old truck in 'top' form shifting. Got it down to a science now. Even have toyed with the idea of hooking up the code checking connections INSIDE the cab with a set of toggle switches and LEDs. But then again, that is maybe somethign only a few of us might try.

 

Ironpants,

Unfortunately no, there is no place I know of to get the docs I have though one guy I sent the file to said most of the docs were covered in the Ford Shop manuals. Since I don't have the manuals, I can't verify this.

Several years ago when I first bought this van, it had trans. troubles. I scoured the web and found a site which had a motherload of info on just about every trans. ever made and all of the info was free. I downloaded all that I could find on the E4OD but didn't think about getting info on other transmissions.

Last winter I went back to the site to see if they'd updated the info and found they had closed the site and were now asking $300 just to enter. Would probably be worth it for a tranny tech. but not so much for a DIY'er.
I've had several guys ask if they could post the info on their sites, but I'd be afraid of copywrite infringement for them, or me. So, I just give the info free to whoever is interested. I don't like to be at the mercy of the odd individual in the trans. business who would take advantage of my ignorance and I'm sure no one on this board does either.

At any rate, if you'll send me an email, and put "E4OD zip file" in the subject line (so I don't delete it as spam), and your email address in the body, I will send you a copy as well.

Regarding the FIPL, here is the entire doc I have:

Before or after overhaul, harsh engagements and shifts. Upshifts late and harsh. No LU and no 3-4 shift.


Cause
TPS (throttle position sensor) or FIPL (fuel injection pump lever) sensors bad or out of range.

Note
If the controller sees a problem with TPS or FIPL sensors, or the voltage to the sensors is too low or high it puts the transmission in FMEM (failure management effects mode). In other words, it sets the transmission to high line pressure (about 150 psi) to protect it from damage. The controller will not take the transmission out of FMEM until the sensor / circuit is repaired.

Important
Early model controllers did not have FMEM. That meant if you had a bad TPS or FIPL that wouldn't send a voltage increase signal back to the controller you had no line rise. No line rise causes the unit to fail real fast. This was a common problem on 7.3L diesels that used a black PIPE sensor. Ford updated the sensor. Always replace the black FIPL sensor with the updated gray one. Ford part # F2TZ-9B989-C.

Also
FIPL adjustment is critical to the life of this transmission. An incorrectly adjusted FIPL can alter line pressure up to 15 psi. The easiest and quickest way to correctly adjust it is with a scanner. You will also need the gauge block from Ford, which keeps the throttle from opening all the way. The gauge block part # is T92T-7B200-AH or you can use any thing that measures .515" thick.

CLARIFICATION NOTE: YOU DO NOT USE THE .515" GAUGE BLOCK WHEN USING THE DVOM METHOD TO ADJUST THE TPS/FIPL. PLEASE SEE ADDENDUM AT BOTTOM OF PAGE BEFORE STARTING ANY PROCEDURE.

Correction
Check TPS/FIPL

Here's how

1. Hook DVOM black lead to battery negative cable.
2. Turn Key to on position (do not start engine).
3. Set meter to DC volts/ 0 to 40-volt scale.
Note
Leave 3-wire connector hooked up to TPS/FIPL sensor for test.

4. Probe black wire on 3-wire connector with red lead of meter. Must be less than .1 volts (that's 1/10 of a volt not l volt). Will probably read in milli-volts. This is the ground wire. If more then .1 volts, ground is bad.
5. Now probe the orange wire. Must be close to 5 volts. This is reference voltage sent from the controller. No voltage means an open wire between the sensor and the controller. Low voltage means the wire is shorted to ground.
6. Check the green wire. It should be around 1 volt. Leave the red lead hooked up to the wire and steadily open the throttle until it is wide open. You should see a steady increase in voltage up to 4 to 4.5 volts, with no fluctuation. Be careful! If you open the throttle to fast the DVOM will probably show 0 voltage or out of limits. This is normal. If the voltage does not increase at all the TPS/FIPL is bad. If it is below 1 volt and never gets to 4 volts, it might just need to be adjusted.

To Adjust FIPL if you don't have a scanner:
1. Loosen FIPL adjustment bolts.
2. Hook DVOM black lead to battery negative cable.
Note
Leave 3-wire connector hooked up to FIPL.

3. Turn key to on position (do not start engine).
4. Set DVOM to DC volts/ 0 to 40 volt scale.
5. Probe green wire (center wire) with red lead of meter.
6. Idle- 1.1 to 1.4 volts.
7. Wide open throttle- 4.1 to 4.5 volts.

ADDENDUM TO ABOVE TEST AND ADJUSTMENT PROCEDURE (Provided by direct experience from Ford Truck Enthusiast Message Board Member, RxF, which may help you get insight and verify what your own Throttle Position Sensor or Fuel Injection Pump Lever sensor is doing. Note: this was taken from a thread in the Pre-Powerstroke Diesel Section but should mostly apply to the TPS on gasoline engines as well; edited some for succinctity)

A Note on the Gauge Block:
If using a DVOM to adjust the FIPL sensor, you DO NOT use the .515" gauge block. The gauge block is only used when adjusting the FIPL sensor with a Scanner Tool. WOT (Wide Open Throttle) is literally when the Fuel Injection Pump Lever is moved all the way from it's idle position to when the Maximum Throttle Set Screw (DO NOT ADJUST) makes contact with the Injection Pump Maximum Throttle Stop.

" The gauge block is only used with the 'scanner tool' or a resistance adjustment procedure I've seen. From reading that procedure (the above procedure not in italics), it was not initially clear to me that this was to be done without the gauge block. The confusion came because the DVOM voltage adjustment procedure was described as an alternative to the (preferred) scanner-tool procedure. The scanner procedure was described first and mandated the gauge block use. The verbage should have made it clear not to use it when performing the alternate procedure.
The following was verified on my truck:
Reference Voltage= 5.04volts
Ground Terminal Voltage was 18 millivolts (.018 volts) after cleaning grounds.
So the system environment I put the FIPL sensor into is good.
Final Adjusted FIPL sensor results:
Idle: 1.33v, WOT: 4.03v
These numbers were the best I could get with the 2 FIPL sensors I had, one not too old and the other brand new.
The FIPL sensors (either one) have a Resistance Total equal to about 4.57kilohms. There is just about 1.1 miliamps (1.1028 ma) of current drawn from the reference supply. With the gauge block in place, the FIPL sensor had a Center Terminal to Ground Resistance of 1.9 kilohms. Then, with voltage applied, the center terminal generated 2.25 volts with the gauge block in place. THIS MEANS THE GAUGE BLOCK PUTS YOU IN A MID-THROTTLE STATE.

HELPFUL HINTS:
1. Probing the FIPL sensor Voltages: Do this from the back (wire side) of the FIPL sensor. There is a polyurethane grommet that is grey in color which the 3 wires enter the harness connector through. This grommet is easily removed with a screwdriver w/o damage. When done with testing/adjustment, apply a slight film dielectric grease on outer edge of grommet to ease insertion into 3-wire harness connector and provide an improved seal.

2. Prior to adjusting the FIPL sensor, disconnect the electrical connection to the Fast Idle Solenoid. This ensures that when you have the ignition switch on, the solenoid plunger does not engage and there will be no voltage discrepancies when adjusting the FIPL sensor idle voltage. Be sure to re-connect the fast idle solenoid once you've gotten the FIPL sensor adjusted."

Part Number
FIPL Sensor
Ford # F2TZ-9B989-C

Now, Ironpants, make sure the ground wire is showing less than 1/10 volt. If you find it to be more than that and don't have the time to trace out the wires to find the open fault, splice into the ground wire of the FIPL and run the remaining end of the shunt wire to the negative battery post. This will ground not only the FIPL, but also the MLPS, and the TOT.

I got this tip off the web somewhere but can't remember where. I've used it with 100% success, though when I get time, I'm gonna trace out the wiring under the pass. side battery where I also read a lot of circuit opens occur because of acid dropping and corroding the wires beneath it. R.A.

 

Thanks man. I sent that email out today.

It did used to throw a code 67 - MLP sensor out of range, but that has cleared up on it's own after I got the TPS sensor *close* to what it should be...

The code 62 I am getting I guess refers to the TC clutch error.
Anyone know of a way to test that, or are you pretty much needing a new torque convertor at that point?

 

Ironpants,

I've sent the file out to you. As you will read, the RPM sensor can set the code 62/628. I replaced my RPM sensor (it had tested bad) and the symptoms, and code 62 cleared up. R.A.

 

I worked on the E4OD for a few years before they started the exchange program and am a firm believer in using a C6 (costs less than $500 built) with a gear vendor OD unit ($1800 to $2400) for $2300 to $2900 for a bullet proof 5 speed auto.

What was the cost of an E4OD again?

 

Dieselzen,

Just got your file, having a quick look at it....
Some pretty valuable information in here.

The RPM gauge giving a code 62 is my next step to check into. My speedo has always been bouncing. After I clear the codes (NO OD off flashing on shifter), the speedo only starts to bounce at or above 100 KM/H. Usually I can tell when a tranny code (mostly 62, once in a month or so a 67) will be thrown, cause the speedo will start to bounce like a bat out of hell. Within a minute or so of that happening, the OD off light starts flashing and the massive shift kit hard shifting occurs.

Until I clear that code again.
I happen to have an RPM gauge on the spare 7.3 on my engine stand, I'll just replace what I have in the truck now and see what happens. (I been 'planning' this for a month now anyway, but that file kindda encouraged me to change it sooner).

 

c-6 with gear vendors and hella line pressure and a HUGE tranny cooler with a fan, maybe 2 in series!! thats the only way to go!why mess with a *****ty shifting e40d with all kinds of electricle BS and not know what to do when you can get a firm c-6 rebuilt and get a gear vendors just to be "cool if you want" for about the same price. if you dont have enough for a gear vendors, to hell with it!!! i'd rather pay for more fuel knowing my truck is going to get me thereand back !!

 

An E4OD can be rebuilt for about $300 bucks... Updates included.....

 

I can state for a fact that you do not know what you are talking about!

Lets just say $15 an hour (I got $22) and 12 hours (as per the factory for a warranty rebuild and they are not generous with time, you could zip through faster if you dont look too close, or at everything you should) minimum is $180 leaves you $120 for parts?

You say updates included?
I assume that would imply extra parts as well as the standard rebuild kit?
Not to mention anything else that might need to be replaced?

Price an overhaul kit, no serious hard parts, just clutch plates, (there are 6 clutch packs alone not to mention the band and 3 one way clutches) gaskets, seals and leave out any of the bushings or bearings that I know you most likely will need, then get back to us.

Anyone that can or will rebuild an E4OD for $300 is selling you junk!
Actually, one from a junk yard sold as a core costs more than that, then you have to rebuild it!

 

It cost me $2200cdn a couple of years back to have mine repaired.I now have an extra one that was re-manned by ford with less than 10k on it and i would not sell it for any less than $750cdn.