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Theres NO way to keep lights from completely not dimming. Hell, do they not dim when you use power windows??
No Battery to chassis? What about the negative that goes right to it?
On mine the battery goes to block, and then the block goes to chassis, and also my lights don't dim when I roll up or down my elec. windows. The strike cap, is not at all going to help with dimming of any kind, all they do is intense the bass, make it "tighter".
i hate to tell you this, but a capacitor is NOT a band aid for sub standard wiring. no matter how good your wiring is, you will drop voltage at idle (from about 14.4 to 13.6) and remember that the battery is only 12. this is the case with a completely stock vehicle...and has to do with the centrifugal speed of the generalor (alternator) when you slow to idle, the output drops. Amplifiers are designed to run bes at 14.4 volts...due to the slow discharge characteristics of these types of capacitors, your voltage will be held closer to 14.4VDC at idle.
There is an Engine to Chassis ground, but there should be a Batt to Chassis as well.The stock grounding has all been cut and replaced. Currently the Battery negative terminates to the Alternator Mounting Bracket. That is the ONLY ground wire from the Battery. Every other ground ties to the Engine block.