locker questions
The driveways and access roads into peoples places (homes) can be a SOB so I'am trying to find ways of increasing the traction of a 2wd so I don't have to call a contractor with a backhoe to pull me out. Most home owners I work for own little front wheeldrive cars they don't have the power to pull a 8000lb truck up their driveway
The local tow trucks are no use to me either they are 2wd like me so they will get stuck too the driveways are way too long to reach with a cable on their winch
I thought about going with a detroit locker but I'am concerned no about it blowing or break stuff. My truck is legal to carry 6000lbs on the deck but I can carry 8000lbs on the deck the truck will easily gross 16,000lbs my previous 450 was upto 18,000lbs with 9000lbs in the box.
The highway here is S curved like a SOB I don't mean gentle corners some are pretty tight curves. There is no way I can coast though the corners I have to power through them especially loaded as your climbing a hill at the same time. The twists and turns in this highway turns city slickers stomachs upside down or when they get out of their vehical they almost fall down from exhaustion
The twisty highway is the reason why I only get 18,000kms (11,118 miles) out of set of steer tires (front) oh ya thats LTX M/S Michelins
I thought about a heavy duty limited slip as I need good highway manners as I do spend 70% of the time on pavement. There isn't many options for a Dana 80 used in the F-Superduty trucks (450) as they do run a 5:13 gear ratio.
The other concern I have with a locker is the truck kicking sideways trying to climb a dirt driveway. If the rear of the truck starts to walk sideways and I get on a angle in the driveway I'am screwed. I do take my chances with a 2wd but I have no choice I need a truck with some carrying capacity a regular F-350 can't even come close to the weight a F-Superduty can pack.
A 99 or newer F-450 4x4 is out of the question unless someone wants to loan me 30 grand
So its 2wd for me h*ll I have been down some driveways that some people wouldn't try with their 4x4s
I have 12 years hauling rubbish to lumber in this area with 1 ton trucks so I do have some experience under my belt when I know when 2wd is pushing its limits. Some of these places can fool you thou the road may look good untill I go down it and its too late I know I will have trouble getting back up it the road.
What is your guys choices on heavy limited slip differentials I did look into a ARB but they won't work in a Dana 80 I'am also concerned about strength.
JJ
When I'am climbing a driveway the duals are alternatly spinning like a open diff should but most of the time either the driveway gets slightly steeper or the truck twists a little bit then the one wheel spins. I know darn well if the other wheel would grab then I could keep trenching forward. It all depends on the driveway some driveways I will crawl up in first gear and just take it slow. If the wheels start to spin heavy then I will stop and back up a little bit and try it again if the wheels spin in the same spot then I get
angry
Thats when I usually back down a fair distance and take a run at it with dirt and rocks flying everywhere just chew the crap out of the driveway. That is a last resort for me because it does make a mess
I also run the risk of getting **** eyed in the driveway so I won't beable to pull forward or back up then I'am really screwed
There have been 2 jobs where I have spun wheels with heavy loads on the truck and I was really concerned about breaking something in the rear end
The one job was hauling some gravel into this lake side cabin it was darn near a 10min drive into the place on a ex logging road. I get to this one section its steep with a switch back I thought to myself I hope I make it no place to turn around. I was packing 6000lb loads into this site with that much weight the rear wheels spun like I had a empty truck
I had to make 5 trips into this place it was a job and a half but the customer got charged good . A regular tandem axle dump truck couldn't make it into the place and a single axle 5 ton dump wouldn't be any better. So I hauled material in 2 yards at a time hey it was good money and the customer had no choice the contractor wanted the material
The 2nd job was hauling some short logs the driveway was greasier than snot it was just rebuilt and modified the soil was heavy clay based I knew I was going to have troubles. Went down picked up one load weighed around 7000lbs started the climb back out and the wheels spun that greasy clay plugged up the tires and turned them into slicks. The traction was very poor it was on the verge of being pushed back out with the backhoe. I decided I will try the new section of driveway it would save me some time not a good idea. I made it up the section but I sunk into the new road base atleast 6-8 inches left 6 deep tire tracks in
the new road
I made 3 loads out of the place the poor truck got a good work out and I left a good trail of mud out on the highway when the tread on my tires cleaned out.
Anyhow I'am trying to find the best option to put in the diff that will give me better traction when I'am empty or lightly loaded if the wheels spin loaded then the person that hired me it gonna have to pay for repairs.
I got a quote on a ARB it was around 1200 dollars cnd not cheap but still cheaper than repairing a 4x4 yearly. Having 4wheeldrive would be nice but when I spend 70% on the pavement why have it plus the fact you don't take a 1.5 ton trail riding. I do plan on making a receiver winch for the jobs that I really get stuck and need to winch myself back out or winch something closer to the truck. That wouldn't be right away thou I think I would spend the bucks on a differential aid first.
Last edited by Kenworth; Oct 9, 2004 at 03:28 PM.


