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I am working on a 87 E-350 w/460 eng. Battery is dead overnight. I am not new to finding these problems, however, this one has me stumped. With the test light lit, I started pulling fuses to no avail. Then I pulled the 2 plugs off the alternator, still nothing. In my haste I neglected to reconnect the alt. I disconnected the main supply wire from the solenoid and the light went out. Bingo, or so I thought. I traced this wire to a junction with 5 wires "press soldiered together. From there I found 2 large wires going to a plug that I disconnected. Light out, so I reconnected that plug. From there I narrowed it to a brown wire with a fusible link in it.
I cut that wire and the test light went out. As I started to trace that wire I remembered that I forgot to reconnect the alt. When I did that, the test light came back on. So the only way to have the light out is with both the brown link wire cut and the small 2 wire connector on the alt. unplugged. I don't know the whole story on this van. Could I have 2 problems? The alt. is working OK.
I would be glad to try to check a wiring diagram for you. However, just to play it safe, can you tell me the rated amperage output of the alternator? Too, is it "just a van" or is it one of those heavy duty passenger vans with multiple A/C units and the like? That, of course, makes a major difference in the wiring.
It is a B-class rv but appears to be normal. is has the same alt as my F-150. I believe it is 95 amp. No extra AC's or any thing else. It does have an extra batt. in the back, but it is isolated properly.
It is a B-class rv but appears to be normal. is has the same alt as my F-150. I believe it is 95 amp. No extra AC's or any thing else. It does have an extra batt. in the back, but it is isolated properly.
It may be of benefit to, first of all, check the battery isolator and ensure it has not gone bad on you. If it has, the lower voltage battery will pull down the higher voltage battery until the voltages in both batteries as nearly even. Too, if the isolator is bad, the current will probably "back feed" and trigger your test light.
Secondly, take a look at the front of the alternator--at the large mounting ear--and you will find the voltage and the amperage etched into the metal. That will give you the amperage output of the alternator @ its maximum.
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