Well, after a few weeks of looking around and talking to people, I found a Bronco! It's a '95 XLT with the 5.8-liter engine. It's got 116,000 miles on it, and the engine runs strong. Overall the thing is pretty clean, just a little bit of rust over the rear fenderwells. Push-button 4WD, which wasn't my first choice, but hey. It was sitting on the lot at a Mitsubishi dealership about 45 minutes from my house. They took it on trade for a Monterro and I don't think they really knew what to do with it. The were trying to move all the old '04 vehicles off the lot, and getting new '05 vehicles in, plus they were taking shipments of hurricane damaged vehicles from Florida. So I think they wanted to move it quick. It's mostly in good shape, but seems to have a couple inssues so far: 1) lots of play in the steering wheel. I don't think my expectations are high on this, 'cause I used to drive a '92 F250 and this has considerably more play than that did; and 2) the damn ABS light. I know that one's going to be fun to diagnose, and I'm sure I'll be asking for help pretty soon. But, the price was right, so I figure I can always stand getting dirty. I'd post some pics, but evidently I don't have enough posts to my credit yet.

Matt

 

There is a way to adjust the steering play but it is very touchy. Do a search in this forum for steering play and you should get the instructions on how to tighten it up a bit. Also check your tie rod ends. They can give you alot of play as well.

 

what did you spend on it. sounds like a great rig. tie rod ends and bad front bearings can cause some steering play .

 

Got it for $3500.

I figured I'd have to start with the tie rod ends, and work inwards from there. I just don't want to have to replace the steering box, but whatever it takes. That and the ABS issues I would like to have resolved before the snow starts flying.

Hey Kemicalburns, where you located in Oregon? I used to live out there, before I moved to the lovely flatlands (Ohio). I keep looking for a way to get back out there.....

Matt

 

Welcome to the board. The forst thing that I would do would be to go get a Haynes manual. It can give you some very needed info. You can learn to pull your ABS codes very simply as well as the main computer codes with a paper clip. My ABS light has been on for over 10 years and last weekend, I replaced the sensor on the top of the rear diff. because it ohmed out bad but was not the total fix. At leaqst now it goes out a second or two and then back on. Mine's gotta be in the wiring or even the module.

Good luck here, it's a great useful site.

Frank

 

I live in Bend.

Ohio huh, ive been there once . my wife has family there someplace. yea i love it here born and raised.

That is a real good buy , so even if you dump a grand into it you still ahead really. an alignment shop could tell ya what needs attention on the front end, as for the abs it could be the rear sensor on the diff or the front abs sensor . shouldnt be to bad though.
good luck

 

I'm hoping that's right. All I ever hear is horror stories about people who've had to replace the HCU. Doesn't sound like a great weekend to me.

I used to live in Corvallis. I'm still trying to dry out

 

aint that the truth. it never rains that much here in central oregon. we have over 300 days of blue sky. cant beat that.

get a manual it will help diag a lot of your issues. the haynes tends to do a better job then the chiltons which i have now. is your bronco mass air by chance. the way you know is a sensor is mounted in the air tube between the airbox and throttle body also the pipe will go from 2 pipes into one .
late

 

I wish - nope, it's speed density. I've worked quite a lot on Mustangs and was looking looking LOOKING for mass air, but overall this was too good of a buy to let the fact that it was SD hold me up. Might convert it later if I can either find a kit for a good price (Summit has the Ford kit for $995 and Pro-M wants $1500 for theirs!!! - and neither of those prices seem like particularly stellar to me) or I'll try to cobble the hardware together from other sources.

Matt

 

if it has sd that totally fine. a tweecer would be the ideal way to go. its alot cheaper and can produce just as well if not better then mass air. just a little more knowledge goes into tuneing with them is all.

 

Yeah, it's funny about that, you know. The Mustang guys are always crabing about speed density being totally useless, but I don't think it's all THAT bad. There doesn't seem to be much doubt that it doesn't do well with radical mods, like big cams, or heads and intakes with serious flow rates, but I've been around a few cars with SD and mild to moderate build-ups that would throw you back in your seat pretty good. Let's just say converting to MAF isn't high on my list of stuff to do to this machine......

Definitely into that TwEECer!! As far as engine goes, I was actually thinking about going Bassani's all the way back - equal length header/X-pipe/cat-back setup (I always seem to start with exhaust). Anyone you know (or anyone reading this) running that kind of set-up? I have EGR though, and I'm not sure if the Bassani system is compatible.

Matt

 

the bassini is the best period. if you can spring for it do it. otherwise just get some nice jba,or bassini headers and get a custom exhaust done by a reputable shop it will cost way less but still performe just as good. That whole bassini kit will run ya around 1G easy

 

YIKES - you're right, I didn't realize that! Guess I should have though, huh? I definitely like their headers, though. Probably will have a good shop fab the rest after the headers. Oh, but stainless exhaust sweeeeeeet.......

Matt