When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I am going to be helping my friend change the front brake pads on her Escape later this week and wondered if there are any tricks that I need to know. Her husband (horribly mechanically challenged, but also horribly cheap) tried to do it yesterday and couldn't figure it out. It took him over an hour to find a wrench of the right size to loosen the lug nuts with. (Rumor has it that the one with the tire and jack was the wrong size, but I will be verifying that for myself when I am working on it).
They don’t have any sort of manual for it so I am going to recommend that they buy either a Haynes or a Chiltons manual before we try this. Are there any special tools that we will need?
18mm socket for the two bolts holding the housing and you'll need a 7mm hex for the back side of the pads. Warning: this may vary from year to year (mine's an 02). Pull the dust covers off the backside of the wheel to verify the 7mm before starting. I highly recommend a 6 inch C clamp to compress the pistons before removing anything. Also, OEM Escape rotors are usually throw-aways and cannot be turned (too thin) so you'll probably need new rotors.
I replaced mine a two weeks ago with Raybestos Quiet Stop ceramic pads and Raybestos PG rotors ~ $160 for parts. Regardless of brand, I suggest ceramic pads due to the OEM pads producing all the black dust on your wheels.
Last edited by bananaboat; Oct 4, 2004 at 05:02 PM.
I thought only the new 2005 Escapes had rear discs. But anyway the rear brakes usually last 2 to 3 times longer than fronts.. the front brakes do most of the work.
Well, the brake pad replacement turned out to be simple enough, but we found that she has a broken wheel stud on the right side. Anyone have any ideas how to replace that? I am used to just being able to beat them out with a hammer and then put in a new one, but I don't see a hole big enough to get the stud out through.
If you're pulling the hub, you may want to get a manual such as Haynes. The driveaxle splines may stick in the hub and you want to support the outer end of the driveaxle to avoid strain on the inner CV joint. Also, check the bearings while the hubs are off. If you replace them, you'll need to take the hubs to a shop since the bearings are pressed.