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On each side of the block there is some small NPT plugs just forward of the bell housing that you can remove to drain the block. I have toyed with the idea of getting some NPT fittings with one end being a slip on fitting so that I can connect it to a water hose and really flush it out good that way. If you decide to do so, do it with a stone cold engine. Forcing cold water through a hot engine in that manner will do more harm than good.
Thanks kwik , thats what I was looking for ( an easy way to flush the block ) . What do ya think of the Cat antifreeze ? I think it comes premixed and you don't have to add csa to it .
I don't know enough about antifreeze formulations to be confident in the advice that I would be giving. I flushed my radiator out a while back and filled it up with Prestone green, a couple bottles of SCA for the proper cavitation protection and then found out that there is a Prestone black bottle that needs to be used instead. So now I have to take the first opportunity to flush it out again.
You can be sure I will get it right the next time. I'll be exploring the Cat antifreeze myself and also Evans. Or I may just go with Motorcraft. I don't know yet.
I thought that the black bottle was just a pre-charged bottle of green anti-freeze, pretty much the same thing as just plain old green and the sca additive but I could be wrong. On mine I've flushed mine out real good and put the gold in and have had no problems at all. While I was at it I changed my upper radiator hose to go around the belt to prevent problems later.
I thought that the black bottle was just a pre-charged bottle of green anti-freeze, pretty much the same thing as just plain old green and the sca additive but I could be wrong. On mine I've flushed mine out real good and put the gold in and have had no problems at all. While I was at it I changed my upper radiator hose to go around the belt to prevent problems later.
refuse2
Can anyone back refuse2 up on this yellow/black bottle issue? Is that the only difference? No SCA additive. When I dip the test strip in they always come out good.
Hey Kwikkordead did you get your swisher wheel in yet and was it hard? I got one one coming but I was curious as to how hard it truely was to do?
refuse2
It wasn't that hard. I elected to not remove the turbo. I pulled the two charge air tubes, the "Y" piece and then the intake cover. There was the wheel. Surpising how small it is inside that great big housing. I dislodged the downpipe and pushed it aside. Wrapped a medium sized screwdriver with several layers of electrical tape. Work it down inside the exhaust outlet and catch one of the vanes of the exhaust wheel. Then you can R&R the intake wheel. They are not on there very tight. Put it all back together. Took me about 2+ hours using a combination of air and hand tools. The two bottom bolts were only accessable with a short 5/16 12 point socket and a 3/8 inch breaker bar. No room for a swivel extension or a ratchet head on the rear bottom bolt. But the breaker bar/socket combo fit in there just fine. All the rest was wide open access.
prestone makes antifreeze for diesels that comes pre chared with the SCA additives. I have used it in my truck for 5k miles with no problems, oh ea it is green in color and is for the 01 and older.
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