Metal prep questions
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Metal prep questions
I am doing body work and some customizing on my 56 Effie. It is a rolling resto that I drive regularly. I am doing the work in my garage. I have a small compressor, MIG welder, body tools, etc.
What surface prep would you recommend to protect the bare metal and allow for final prep and paint later?
The only painting I have ever done is rattle can. Suggestions appreciated.
What surface prep would you recommend to protect the bare metal and allow for final prep and paint later?
The only painting I have ever done is rattle can. Suggestions appreciated.
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: winnipeg, manitoba
Randy Jack
I am using a epoxy primer (DP40lf), I am suprized how eazy it goes on.
It is my first exp with a spray gun. I painted the interior and fire wall with
base clear over the epoxy, and am getting a sore arm from patting myself on the back. it turned out excelent.
I am using a epoxy primer (DP40lf), I am suprized how eazy it goes on.
It is my first exp with a spray gun. I painted the interior and fire wall with
base clear over the epoxy, and am getting a sore arm from patting myself on the back. it turned out excelent.
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Oily - sounds good.
Can you tell me:
1. Who makes that primer and where did you get it?
2. What equipment do you have? (Compressor size?, Dryer?, Gun?)
3. What safety equipment do you need?
4. Do you do any surface prep before the paint? (laquer thinner, etc?)
5. What kind of overspray does it produce? How big a mess is it?
6. What kind of clean up?
7. What other tips would you give me?
Can you tell me:
1. Who makes that primer and where did you get it?
2. What equipment do you have? (Compressor size?, Dryer?, Gun?)
3. What safety equipment do you need?
4. Do you do any surface prep before the paint? (laquer thinner, etc?)
5. What kind of overspray does it produce? How big a mess is it?
6. What kind of clean up?
7. What other tips would you give me?
Junior User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 79
Likes: 0
From: winnipeg, manitoba
DP40lf is a ppg brand, i get at the body shop supply. ppg also makes a less expensive
line called omni, I used that for the base clear. I used a small single cyl compresser(but have recently upgraded to a 60gal twin), and a good quality gun. spraying pressure 50, recomended on paint fact sheet. I use a small water seperator.
It is verry important to use a good mask/resperater, fumes arn't bad but cant be good for u. Before priming i used metal prep/cleaner.The mess was not to bad, i sprayed in my garage with the door open. Because i have a lot of painting to do, I bought a 20 litre pail of gun wash for clean up.
As for other tips, I am just learning but i have found that the body shop supply places are a wealth of info. When you buy any paint they give you the info sheet, which is helpfull. I seem to remember there was a post about painting recently on this forrum.
Oily
line called omni, I used that for the base clear. I used a small single cyl compresser(but have recently upgraded to a 60gal twin), and a good quality gun. spraying pressure 50, recomended on paint fact sheet. I use a small water seperator.
It is verry important to use a good mask/resperater, fumes arn't bad but cant be good for u. Before priming i used metal prep/cleaner.The mess was not to bad, i sprayed in my garage with the door open. Because i have a lot of painting to do, I bought a 20 litre pail of gun wash for clean up.
As for other tips, I am just learning but i have found that the body shop supply places are a wealth of info. When you buy any paint they give you the info sheet, which is helpfull. I seem to remember there was a post about painting recently on this forrum.
Oily
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 27,300
Likes: 1,059
From: NM
Oily, not to rain on your parade but any of the epoxy paints (primer or catalyzed or "hardened" paints) are extremely dangerous. The hardeners are essentially SuperGlue (polycyanoacrylates) and any of it in your lungs is permanent and can be deadly. A respirator doesn't protect you. This is precisely why I chose not to paint my truck myself, a breathing air system and a downflow booth are required if you want to keep breathing. I have read testimonials from two guys on other forums who are now toting oxygen bottles around, one is in serious shape from painting with epoxies in his garage.... I'd think real hard about DIY on this stuff. At least read the MSDS sheets real closely...
Here's the MSDS on the primer mentioned: http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/msds/EODP40LF.TXT
-- Ross
Here's the MSDS on the primer mentioned: http://www.ppg.com/refinishftpsite/msds/EODP40LF.TXT
-- Ross
Last edited by ALBUQ F-1; Sep 28, 2004 at 01:09 PM.
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Any other metal prep ideas? Ross kinda squelched that one. The MSDS is pretty scary.
I was hoping someone had used a "self-etching" primer (or ?).
I also saw an add from Eastwood on their "Rust Encapsulator". They say it neutralizes rust and primes in one (expensive) step and that it is compatible with all topcoats over it, but I can't find out if it is sandable for final prep later. Anyone use that stuff?
I was hoping someone had used a "self-etching" primer (or ?).
I also saw an add from Eastwood on their "Rust Encapsulator". They say it neutralizes rust and primes in one (expensive) step and that it is compatible with all topcoats over it, but I can't find out if it is sandable for final prep later. Anyone use that stuff?
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Elder User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 825
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From: Michigan
I have used both Eastwoods self etching primer and rust encapsulator on my 55 resto. The rust enc is good for parts that all the rust cannot be removed from. Used it on bumper brackets, various frame parts, etc. For body work I would suggest using spray can self etching primer. You can prime over it again later with a regular spray gun or do body work and respray with the can.
Fred K.
Fred K.
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Elder User
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Posts: 825
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From: Michigan
Have not sanded it but have top coated with Eastwood's Chassis Black and Underhood Black. Some of the parts were painted a year ago and none have lifted and all adhered good. Suggest test painting a part if you want to sand and top coat with primer or color. Don't think you will have a problem.
Fred
Fred
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Unless things have changed from my days in the paint business, or I did not understand it then, most primers are by their nature porous sp? , and if you are restoring and driving, much care must be given to sealing the primer before bringing it ouside, we used to spray some clear on the primer after bodywork, if we were going to drive or park it outside, and sand it back off before final painting.
New User
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 9
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From: Crescent, Okla.
You might check out another PPG primer called NCP271 - CORROSION RESISTANT PRIMER, it is a two part primer also, but no isocyanates, chrome, or lead. Have'nt seen the MSDS sheet on it but, I think I will try it .I started out using dplf epoxy also, but became worried about the isocyanates in it. You can check PPG product sheets on their website here, http://www.ppg.com/cr-refinish/phase1/frmHome.asp.
Bruce
55 F-100
56 F-100
Bruce
55 F-100
56 F-100
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