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I'm in the process of rebuilding 3 Holley 2 barrels Ford #C1AE-9510-AU,Holley list # 2436 on center and 2437 on outboards.All 3 have idle speed adjust screws and idle mix screws.I'm told the setup idles on the center carb.Does anyone know what to do about the outboard carb adjustments for idle speed and mix?I've run this setup and have never really known the correct way to adjust the outboards at idle.I've tried shuting them down completely B/4 and the butterflies stuck when I tried to stomp it to the floor.
have you tried setting the outer carbs at the lowest idle flow possible, that still allows for smooth butteryfly action, then backing off the center carb. Maybe you can get a decent idle that way.
I've always liked the 6-pack look, but it was this tuning that scares me. I can't even tune one carb :-)
It's my understanding that the outboard ones should not have a choke..acc pump system or metering block but instead a metering plate therefore no idle circuits either. Are you sure those outboard ones are correct or did you just buy 3 2 barrels? Just a thought your setup could be different and I could be wrong but that's what I've always seen/read on any brand of tri power including holley. Good luck
Mark
If the 3X2 setup is a Ford system from a 390 or a 406 the best way to set the carbs is make sure all the mixture screws are set the same. On the 406 920cfm setup( the same carbs were rated at 860cfm on the 390HP) I had on both a 390, 427 4V low riser and a 428CJ I had all 6 screws set a 1/2 turn. This made the mixture very even through out the engine and gave good brisk throttle response. Make sure the throotle valve are completely closed on the end carbs and use the center one to adjust idle speed. With the short advance curves and high initial timing on my engines I also ran the center throttle valve close. All three carbs have power valves, accel pumps, metering blocks and mechancial throttle linkage, this ain't no damn MOPAR. The center carb has the choke. I picked up the manifold, all three carbs, linkage, fuel block and air cleaner, brand new assembled but never installed in 1971 in the trunk of a 1962 Ford with a 406 4V on it(the six pack was dealer installed but shipped in the trunk). Paid a $100 for it and in the next 10 years had it on 6 different engines and it was a remarkable preformance boost on all of them. Sold it in 1986 for $1000 (stupid greedy move).
Last edited by Bear 45/70; Sep 29, 2004 at 01:52 AM.
Thanks for the advice from all. I finished 2 of them yesterday and I'll get the 3rd today.They all 3 have idle speed and mix adjustments.There ain't nothing better sounding than stomping it to the floor and hearing those 3 dueces kick in and hoping the hood don't get sucked thru the carbs. I've got them on a 67 GT,TRW pistons,Comp Cams 292 Mag-560/292/244,CJ sized SS valves,Hookers and a 4.11
Russrobbins; That combo should run real well. My '66 Mercury Cyclone, 390GT stock, 4 speed and 3.73 ran major league better with the 3X2's. The 428CJ Ram air(that was fun making the air systen work with the 3X2's) in the "69 Cobra Fastback with C-6 and 4.30's also responed well. The '69 Cobra 428SCJ Notchback at 3400lbs with 4.30's really came alive, picked up almost half a second in the quater mile and 5 miles an hour.
Got the carbs done and on late yesterday afternoon and set them 1/2 turn.That works out real good.I just had to take it for a spin.I believe this is about as good as that Ford has ever run.The only trouble I had was all 3 fuel inlets leaked even with the new seals.I ended up wraping them with teflon tape and that cured it.