im wondering what camshaft yall recomend for my 300 to get good low and mid power increase??

 

Crane Truck Cam i Belive it is a 260/272 grind

 

yeah thats the one i was thinking about .

thanks

 

i second that one =D

 

I belive it is actually under the Crane Energizer series
and it only costs about $110 Not bad

 

Crane PowerMax # 503905

Isky 331256 works, but better for only a lowend increase.

-J-R-

 

Mee too !

Part # 503905.


Summit:


Cam (Crane): CRN-503905, $110;

Lifters (Sealed Power): (12) SLP-HT-900, $30


Rockauto:

Timing gear set (Sealed Power whiny coarse-tooth metal gears, NO FIBER in this engine's diet---it's not yer reg'lar kind of engine, me likeum a little gear drive noise...): 2212764S, $51

Gaskets: Your choice. Might as well get 'em from where the timing gear set comes from for convenience's sake...


Some things to watch out for:

1) Make sure engine is at TDC of #1 before pulling distributor, and mark rotor position. Do not drop oil pump driveshaft into the motor when removing distributor. Please do not drop oil pump driveshaft into the motor when removing distributor. I repeat: be careful not to drop...

I put little spring steel press-clips (Tinnerman clips?) on the shafts about 1/4" below the block's shaft bore hole to keep the shaft happily married to the oil pump when pulling the distributor, when I'm in the bottom end. The factory did too...sometimes...

2) With flat-tappet cams, always use new lifters with new or used cam lobes (unless you keep the old lifters on the same used cam lobes they came from and they're not worn concave. Always use new lifters with new cam in any case. Roller cams don't necessarily apply to any of this...). Use the valvesprings the manufacturer recommends (why, their own, of course!), or ones with same or very similar specs. Set them to proper installed height, with shims as necessary. I use a hite-mike, but a dial caliper can be used carefully.

3) Always make sure that at the point of maximum valve lift, there is enough clearance between valvespring retainer and valveguide (stem seal, too). With hi-lift cams, and some retainers, this can be an issue. Always check that the rockers aren't hitting the ends of their slots. Ignoring these details can ruin your day.

4) Use cam break-in lube (moly paste) on the lobes, break in the cam for 20-30 min. by running it at 2000-2500 RPM, preferably varying RPM a little. Shut down, change oil and filter while letting it cool. You can use the cheapest oil and filter you can find for this: it'll only be there for the cam break-in period. Or do the cam right before an oil change (better to use fresh oil and filter...). Lube everything upon assembly. Motor honey is good, clingy assembly lube for timing gears, cam bearing journals, cam retainer plates, lifter bores, and rocker arms/pushrod ends, so is lithium moly wheel bearing grease. I use moly on the distributor gear.

5) Do not turn engine over manually by cam gear bolt. Always use crank bolt, and spin it in the direction of engine rotation (or y'all'll loosen the bolt...seriously, engines with timing belts and some with hydraulically-tensioned chains, this really matters...)

6) Check balancer to make sure she ain't spun. Now's the time while you're there. Don't beat it on. Pull it on with a puller, or the retaining bolt and washer if you can get enough threads for a good bite. Polish the crank seal area, and lube the (new) crank seal before balancer installation. A little film of Permatex in the balancer hole will keep oil from ever sneaking thru there.

I'm sure I forgot a few things...

 

one thing to say

get the cam from jegs because they stock it when i got mine about a month ago summit didnt

 

i got mine within 3 days from summit...they said it was in stock...

 

Summit doesn't show 503901 in stock, but 503905's there listed as being in stock right now. I ordered one Monday with some lifters 'n other stuff, and it'll be at my door prolly by Thursday, if not tomorrow...

 

IIRC its the same cam?

 

I looked into that awhile ago,
The spec sheets indicate them as the same cam,

But there is the possibility of the one of the two being advanced or retarted.
Thinking that the PowerMax 503905 would be advanced and the 503901 set to zero advance.
dunno?

I remember reading another cam manufacturer specifying one of their cam lines(type) all keyed 3 degrees advance.

-J-R-

 

yeh i get moist of my stuff from summit but they must have been out then

its great knowing if i place an order over the weekend it will be here by tuesday or if i order wednesday night it well be here friday

 

Scratch that, they are the same.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=techarticle&id=1

-J-R-

 

I seem to dimly remember both cams being listed as 4° advanced (108° intake LC), and both 112° centers. I dunno . Different part #'s maybe, same cam? Hold on one imaginary realtime second while I skim Crane's online cam literature...dumdedumdedum...definitely same cam. Ahh, me see something! The '905's listed for just the 240, and the '901 is listed for both on the data sheet. Me thinkum numbering confusion in Crane-ville, and they're the same cam. Could have a different lobe profile with the numbers being in the same place (different ramps, mebbe? Faster-closing intake?), but I think the prior explanation makes more sense to me. Me not knowing for sure...