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Sounds like you need to adjust your vacuum advance unit only. Try inserting an allen wrench into the nipple of the vacuum advance (I forget what size it is, try a few). If one engages, turn it CCW one turn at a time and take it for a test drive with the vacuum reconnected. If it still pings only at part throttle, try another turn until it goes away.
now that is the kind of info I am looking for..simple and to the point. Will give it a shot ASAP. Thanks
Old Ford Trucker provided the links - I posted the one I liked the best, but he posted others. See this post -https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=287870
Besides that.......... When I had the intake off of my truck 2 weeks ago, the tops of the intake valves indeed were cruddy...Maybe I will try the seafoam.
Water injection uses a VERY small amount to reduce cylinder temperatures to allow more timing and a leaner mixture to be run. Similar to EGR. The amount is so small, that most if not all of it is evaporated before it ever reaches the cylinder. It can work good when used correctly. However, spraying it into the carburetor puts in way too much at a time.
I can't imagine "spraying" water into the carb. I have done the water in the carb thing, as have others, but every time I have seen it done/done it, it has been by "dribbling" water off the end of my fingers or a screwdriver or something similar. The amount of water used is not excessive, and as such shouldn't wash the lubrication off of the cylinder walls to a harmful degree, or cause a hydraulic lock or anything destructive. I am not sure, however, whether it is effective or not, as I have never used it then pulled a head to check for cleanliness.
When I say SPRAY...i mean just that, with a bottle intended for cleaning agents...that sprays a very fine mist into the intake..I am not using a garden hose or anything. A very very very fine mist ONLY...Like Rusty said, The majority of moisture has evaporated. When I have done this in the past, the amount of water I have used hardly changed the idle.
The way I would do it, if I were to use water, would be to hold the throttle part way open such that then engine is up around 2500rpm. Then slowly spray in the water. This way you're not getting as much in per revolution.
I reset my timing to 8deg, played with the vacuum advance adjustment and got some improvement. When the engine is cold, it runs like a champ. Once it's warmed up to operating temp the pinging is about the same as before. I filled up with super and dumped in a bottle of octane boost but that didn't really help. Not sure what else to check. Is it strange that when it's cold it doesn't ping bad like it does once warm?
Not strange, as part of the emission system the vacuum advance only works when the engine is warmed up.
Just to verify it's an advance problem, after the engine is warmed up try driving around with the vacuum advance hose disconnected and plugged, see if the ping is gone.
Could be carbon too, takes a while to get it glowing.
Probably carbon. On an engine this old it's definately had time to accumulate. Try the seafoam in the carb trick. If you dont get a huge smoke cloud you're not doing it right. Dump it in until it kills the motor. Let it set for 5 minutes, and then restart. Then take a drive and drive until it stops smoking. Then test for pinging.
If it still pings after that, you may need to increase your carb jets a couple sizes.
Finally figured it out. Disconnected the vac adv and all was well. The difference here in town between a rebuilt distributor and the vac adv unit by itself was only $20, so I went complete. Truck runs way better now. When I compared the stiffness of the stocker and the rebuild, the stocker would advance way easier.