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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

302FI to carb, will it work?

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Old Sep 27, 2004 | 06:36 AM
  #1  
kij2004's Avatar
kij2004
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From: Michigan
302FI to carb, will it work?

I have a 87 f-150 302FI. Most of the electronics, fuel and injection system are shot. Since this will only be a winter beater I do not want to put too much into it. Will a carbed manifold fit this motor for a quick fix? I know that I will have to regulate the fuel pressure (high pump already dead). A friend of mine has a manifold from a 351w, will that fit? Is there anything else that anyone can add.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2004 | 08:00 AM
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I'm thinking the 351 manifold WON'T work, but I'm not positive. A friend of mine had the same trouble, didn't know what the previous owner had done to the wiring, most of it was shot, etc. He rigged it up, and it worked fairly well. I seem to recall a somewhat redneck-rigged accelerator cable spring...
 
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Old Sep 27, 2004 | 08:09 AM
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Some of them fit, some of them do not fit, I don't know offhand what years crossover and which ones do not, but I would guess the later the intake, and the earlier the engine, the more likely they will fit.

Putting on a carb is more work than you think... you'd need to change the fueling system and remove the EFI pump in the tank, because if its not working right, its essentially a large cork in your fuel system. Using a low pressure pump whether mechanical or electric in series with a dead EFI pump isn't going to give you enough fuel to adjust your carb properly for consistant operation in the winter. I've been down this road before and it was rather unpleasant (mustang, not a F-series).

How bad does the EFI run? Does the truck run at all? Depending what is hacked up wiring wise, it might be easier to acquire an EFI harness out of a junkyard from the ECM forward. Take you an hour or two to yank it out, another two to slap it on, that might be all you need. Again, that depends as to exactly what is wrong with the truck. Sometimes poor performance is a bad sensor or two, sometimes the injectors are clogged, sometimes the fuel pumps (in tank) are marginal, etc.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2004 | 08:10 AM
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Oh, my fault, I thought you stated you were converting an EFI 351 to carb efi 351. The 302 and the 351 do not share intakes, carbed to EFI that I'm aware of. My apologies, I misread your post.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2004 | 10:04 AM
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kij2004
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Thanks for the info. The truck is not currently running (don't know the exact state of the motor either). It had sat for a couple of years beofer I got it. The wiring is somewhat corroded in many places. I have replaced the intank pump but found that the high pressure pump is gone. Also the fuel line from the filter to the rail is shot. I am trying to avoid spending too much to just find out that the motor is shot.
 
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Old Sep 27, 2004 | 11:50 AM
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From: Still under the hood in O
I suggest checking the compression before going any farther to find out the health of the motor.

If you want to convert to carb, check this article. The site gets shut down during high bandwidth, just try it at a later time.
http://www.jason.fletcher.net/tech/e...b/efi-carb.htm
 
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Old Sep 27, 2004 | 03:01 PM
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FI is easy to work on - compared to a carb...

Before you make the truck impossible to ever pass emissions inspection (coming soon to a city near you) try to fix the EFI.

There are only 3 major components of EFI

1. Actuators and Sensors

2. Wiring harness and Connectors

3. Computer

The computer rarely fails, despite what shade-tree mechanics will tell you. A big source of problems is just in the connectors - they corrode and get dirty and fail to connect properly. Clean each electrical connector in the system and apply a slather of dielectric grease to it.

I met a fellow who went through 3 engine computers on his F250. Every time the mechanic changed the computer, the act of unpluggging it and plugging in a new one would remove JUST ENOUGH corrosion from the connector to make it work for another year or so. It was "fixed" but it never needed a new computer to begin with.

We unplugged the computer, cleaned the connector and put dielectric grease on it, and its worked fine ever since. Cost: FREE.

As for various sensors, you can test these with a simple volt-ohm meter and replace as necessary. It really is simpler than a carb. No analog adjusttments, emulsion tubes, diaphrams, needle jets, etc.

And let's face it, you are going to HAVE to learn how to fix Fuel Injection sometime, it might as well be now. Carburated cars are going the way of the Dinosaur.

Read some books on the subject and don't be afraid to give it a try. The offical FORD service manuals are helpful, but appear to be written in sanskrit.

Good Luck!
 
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