Speaker wiring question
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Speaker wiring question
In the interest of keeping all of the speakers in phase when I replace them, I'd like to know the pin outs for the door speakers and sub.
I have a 2002 'Gator w/ Premium Sound. None of the wiring diagrams I have seem to indicate + / - relationships.
So for each door and the sub, in terms of color designation, which pin is + and which is - ?
Many thanks!
JAMES.
I have a 2002 'Gator w/ Premium Sound. None of the wiring diagrams I have seem to indicate + / - relationships.
So for each door and the sub, in terms of color designation, which pin is + and which is - ?
Many thanks!
JAMES.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 118
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From: Tacoma, WA.
Originally Posted by snoVVman
In the interest of keeping all of the speakers in phase when I replace them, I'd like to know the pin outs for the door speakers and sub.
I have a 2002 'Gator w/ Premium Sound. None of the wiring diagrams I have seem to indicate + / - relationships.
So for each door and the sub, in terms of color designation, which pin is + and which is - ?
Many thanks!
JAMES.
I have a 2002 'Gator w/ Premium Sound. None of the wiring diagrams I have seem to indicate + / - relationships.
So for each door and the sub, in terms of color designation, which pin is + and which is - ?
Many thanks!
JAMES.
Now, 1 of 2 things will happen. The CONE will flex AWAY from the magnet or the CONE will flex towards the magnet. If it flex's away from the magnet Then the wire that is touching the positive end of the battery is the POSITIVE terminal. Obviously the other terminal is negative. Now if it flex's towards the magnet then it is not hooked up correctly. Switch the wires for the correct Positive/Negative set up.
Once you've established the + and - of the speaker plug it back into the stock plug and you'll be able to see which wire is positive and which one is negative because you've already figured out which is which on the speaker itself.
Did I just confuse the crap out of you?
Last edited by T0DD; Sep 25, 2004 at 10:49 PM.
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Thanks for your response. I understand what you wrote, but my premium speakers have enclosures and grills that make the cone excursion difficult to observe. The whole assembly seems to be glued together.
I will keep this method as a last resort.
JAMES.
I will keep this method as a last resort.
JAMES.
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From: Tacoma, WA.
Originally Posted by snoVVman
Thanks for your response. I understand what you wrote, but my premium speakers have enclosures and grills that make the cone excursion difficult to observe. The whole assembly seems to be glued together.
I will keep this method as a last resort.
JAMES.
I will keep this method as a last resort.
JAMES.
If you have a digital volt/ohm meter, the ohm symbol looks like an upside down horseshoe with little tabs sticking out on either side. The symbol just to the left of the 32K is the OHM symbol.
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I have several DMVs for different purposes, even a digital oscilloscope. Ohm meters are used to measure resistance, not voltage. The resistance is measured in the scale of ohms, and there is no positive or negative.
If I understand you correctly, you're suggesting that I take the reading while the speaker is on and look for positive/negative readings. While I haven't tried this, I don't believe this would work.
When a speaker is "driven", its impedence changes based on the frequencies it's asked to produce, even though most automotive speakers are nominally rated at 4 ohms. With a high impedence DVM, one might be able to read the voltage coming from the amp using a volt meter.
I've seen several people on this forum changing their speakers, how are they getting the information? The only place I can think of is Crutchfield, assuming you bought something from them.
JAMES.
If I understand you correctly, you're suggesting that I take the reading while the speaker is on and look for positive/negative readings. While I haven't tried this, I don't believe this would work.
When a speaker is "driven", its impedence changes based on the frequencies it's asked to produce, even though most automotive speakers are nominally rated at 4 ohms. With a high impedence DVM, one might be able to read the voltage coming from the amp using a volt meter.
I've seen several people on this forum changing their speakers, how are they getting the information? The only place I can think of is Crutchfield, assuming you bought something from them.
JAMES.
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Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 118
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From: Tacoma, WA.
Originally Posted by snoVVman
I have several DMVs for different purposes, even a digital oscilloscope. Ohm meters are used to measure resistance, not voltage. The resistance is measured in the scale of ohms, and there is no positive or negative.
If I understand you correctly, you're suggesting that I take the reading while the speaker is on and look for positive/negative readings. While I haven't tried this, I don't believe this would work.
When a speaker is "driven", its impedence changes based on the frequencies it's asked to produce, even though most automotive speakers are nominally rated at 4 ohms. With a high impedence DVM, one might be able to read the voltage coming from the amp using a volt meter.
I've seen several people on this forum changing their speakers, how are they getting the information? The only place I can think of is Crutchfield, assuming you bought something from them.
JAMES.
If I understand you correctly, you're suggesting that I take the reading while the speaker is on and look for positive/negative readings. While I haven't tried this, I don't believe this would work.
When a speaker is "driven", its impedence changes based on the frequencies it's asked to produce, even though most automotive speakers are nominally rated at 4 ohms. With a high impedence DVM, one might be able to read the voltage coming from the amp using a volt meter.
I've seen several people on this forum changing their speakers, how are they getting the information? The only place I can think of is Crutchfield, assuming you bought something from them.
JAMES.
Ok, then I moved the METER to the OHM setting 200. I just chose that one cause it makes a little noise when connected.
I put the POSTIVE from the METER to the POSITIVE on the Speaker line. And Negative to NEGATIVE. As you can see it the picture below it will give you a positive reading confirming it is hooked up correctly. The numbers will fluctuate but it never goes into the negative.
Now in the picture below, I hooked it up the WRONG way to show you that it will give you a NEGATIVE reading if hooked up incorrectly.
I don't know anything about electronics but I know that doing it this way it never failed when showing me which line was positive and which was negative. Hopefully this will help you out.
Back to watching FOOTBALL !!
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SnoVVman,
Hope you got a chance to see this. It will help you out when you replace you stock speakers. I know it helped me out.
Hope you got a chance to see this. It will help you out when you replace you stock speakers. I know it helped me out.
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Fleet Owner
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From: Blue Hill Township
If you end up buying from crutchfield, they usually send you little adapters to plug right into the factory harness.
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Todd, there is something funny about that meter or yours...there is NO SUCH thing as a -ohm reading (you can NOT have less than zero resistance) and for that matter...resistance would read the SAME reading...4ohms on a speaker...no matter which way you hook it on the terminals. I would suggest getting a Fluke multimeter. I also notice in your pictures that the OHM indicator (lower right hand corner of your LCD display) is not on...if you were reading OHMS the Omega symbol would be on...you may need a new battery for that.
Last edited by blwilli; Oct 16, 2004 at 10:30 AM.
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