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Coolant sensor is back...

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Old Sep 23, 2004 | 08:30 PM
  #1  
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durken
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Coolant sensor is back...

Some of you all might remember me, I have a 1989 B2 with the 2.9L v6 that had rich fuel mixture and stalling issues. I had tracked it down to a bad coolant sensor and well, the problem has reared its ugly head again. I am going to buy a new one, and replace it. I am here because I am wondering about possible causes for the coolant sensor to keep going bad other than the possibility that I got a defective one. I did the wiggle check the wire test to see if I can cause an intermitant short or something but I cannot find anything causing a short to ground or just plain opens on the circuit. Should I just chalk it up to bad luck or does anyone else have any ideas? The weird thing is, the coolant gauge looks like it is reading just fine or is that temp reading pulled from somewhere else? I have not seen the gauge go above normal this entire time that it has been running fine.

Any thoughts?

Thanks!
 
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Old Sep 23, 2004 | 09:06 PM
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The sensor for the gauge and the computer are different, for the gauge one wire, the computer two wires.
 
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Old Sep 24, 2004 | 10:12 AM
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durken
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Okay cool, I was worried they were the same and was starting to freak out a bit hehe. I will replace the sensor again hopefully tonight. I may also just replace the knock sensor as well since that code is coming up also. When replacing the knock sensor, does the hole it screws into on the block go all the way through? Like do I have to worry about fluids spewing out when I pull the knock sensor out?


Thanks Ken00!
 
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Old Sep 24, 2004 | 10:22 AM
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durken
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Oh my, I fat fingered the year, its a 1986 2.9L v6 sorry bout that. Not sure if that changes whether or not the temp gauge is tied into the two wire coolant temperature sensor or not...


Thanks
 
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Old Sep 24, 2004 | 11:41 AM
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No, that doesn't change anything.
I would check into why the ECT is failing. The ECT is a basic thermistor, and really doesn't seem to fail that frequently. Are you certain the ECT is at fault? Have you checked computer codes? Checked the ECT output? Maybe try a different supplier.
I don't think I would replace the knock sensor unless you have reason to suspect that it's bad. They don't go bad very often. The only code I'm aware of for the knock sensor is a KOER 25, and the usual reason for that code is when you don't "goose" the throttle enough during the dynamic response test.
 
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