I have a check engine light on, had the code checked and it is P0113, Air induction temp high. Based on previous questions about the same code I am pretty sure it is just the sensor. I am just wondering how hard it is to change, or if it would be worthwhile to change without getting a full diagnostic. Oh, and its a 2000 with a 2.5L engine, and 2x4. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Welcome to FTE. I looked in my 01 cd manual. The sensor is a thermistor that either plugs in or screws in. The resistence drops as the temperature increases. If you have an ohmeter, you could measure the resistence and see if it is changing. Also check the wire connection.

Found more specs: at 68* res= 37,300 ohms, 212* res= 2,070 ohms

 

Welcome to FTE!!

Should be real easy to change, does anyone with the 2.5 know the exact location???

 

Ok, so this almost seems to easy. Would this be the temp sensor located on the intake or is there another sensor I would have to change? It just seems to easy to change that little piece of plastic.

 

On my 3.0 it's in the tube running from the air cleaner/MAF to the throttle body.

 

Ok, so I checked out my Intake air temp sensor, it is ok, don't see any loose connections. I looked up my aircode and it is listed as a IAT or ECT intermitant fault, but so where like 5 other codes. Is there a way to tell specifically what 113 is? And how hard would it be to check my Engine coolant temp sensor? How do I know if something I do fixes the problem? I.e how do I reset the error code?

 

The P0113 code means your Intake Air Temperature (IAT) sensor is sending a voltage signal back to the PCM that is too high (over 4.6 volts)

As noted, the IAT is a thermistor device in which resistance changes with temperature. The electrical resistance of a thermistor decreases as the temperature increases, and increases as the temperature decreases, (proportionally in each case). This varying resistance affects the voltage drop across the sensor terminals, which allows for a voltage signal to be sent back to the PCM corresponding to temperature.

The voltage signal that is sent back to the PCM is equal to the Reference Voltage (VRef, 5 volts) minus the aforementioned voltage drop across the fixed resistor. That is why an open in the circuit between the PCM and the IAT will result in "too high" voltage signal at the PCM (i.e., 5 volts). In addition, corrosion in the circuit would tend to add resistance and hence result in higher-than-normal voltage at the PCM because of the signal being based on voltage drop.

In any case, if the circuit checks out OK, then it's either the IAT sensor at fault, or the PCM.

 

Hello,
I recently changed this sensor. I took it out of the air tube ane tested it with an ohm meter. It tested pretty good so I cleaned it up, and reinstalled it. Light was out, and I felt I had made a fix. A day or two later the light was back on. I figured if I was serious about fixing these OBDII codes, I should invest in a scan tool. tool showed same code PO113. I was about ready to pull the CPU, when I thought I would call Ford for a price on the sensor. I was quoted 37 bucks, so I went over to my Local Ford dealer, and picked one up. I swapped out the IAT sensor, and the CEL light has been out since. The question still haunts me about a sensor checking out good, but being bad anyway. Maybe, it takes a while for the resistance factors to go haywire. I don't know. Glad it's been good though.

 

Ok, so it has to be something with the IAT then, not the ECT right? So here is the deal, I had checked my IAT, thought it was reading a rather high resistance, so I ordered the part from Ford and it cost me about $35. I checked the resistance on the new one before I put it in and it was good. I took out the old one and checked it, that is when I noticed it was also reading fine. So I checked it several times and it always checked out ok. Anyways I disconnected my battery and then reconnected it, ran my engine for awhile and the light stayed off. The next time I started it the light came back in. The connection isn't corroded or loose. Anyways now in order to get my registration updated for this year I need to get an Ohio E-check, which means I can't have any CEL or they fail you automatically. As far as checking out the PCM, what would I do for that.

Thanks for all the help.

 

Hi Jer2000,
I'm not sure if you left the new one in, or cleaned the old one, and put that back in. Sorry, just couldn't tell from your post.
There are also several conditions that will set this code. One is too much voltage going into sensor, and one is too little.
The scan tool I bought gives you the code #, but it also tells you in english what the actual condition is.
You might have to go to where you got the code read, or buy the scan tool yourself. You would want to read the tool, and see what it says.
Also it could be another code all together.

It's a pain in the butt going back, and forth to Autozone. For me it's almost 45 minutes, that's why I broke down and bought one. They have sales at the zone all the time. I picked one up for 99 bucks...worth it to me.

Pick up a Hayne's manual, if you don't have one for you truck already. They have a pretty good section on emissions, and tell you how to check for codes. This section tells how to trouble shoot various components, and wires for volage and resistance.

First thing to do is pull the trouble code again. Then disconnect battery for half an hour. Run your truck, and if the CEL comes back on, check the code again.
It might not be the same code. If you took out the new sensor to return it, put it back in.

Mine tested ok, but actually was defective.

I know what you mean about inspections. They just started advanced inspection in Ma. You flunk, if you have cel on. If you flunk safety, you can't drive away. You have to have it towed to a registry repair facility. Takes the fun out of running a beater.

Try what I suggested, and let us know what's happening. It could be a bad connection or broken wire. Don't do anything rash, like getting into the computer just yet. Let us know if you did or didn't change the IAT sensor. Get some electric component cleaner. Even if it looks clean, it should be sprayed.

 

I put the old sensor back in, disconnected the battery and once the computer reset the CEL came back on. I did the same with the new sensor and the CEL came back in. Thanks for the advice, I haven't given up on this yet I'll let you know if I can figure it out.

 

If you want to try and test for an open or short, according to the '00 Ford Manual, the signal wire from the IAT to the PCM should be Gray (GY) and it uses pin 39 at the PCM.

 

Ok, hopefully this is the end of this topic for me. My CEL is off, and I ran my car for over an hour and it didn't come back on. What I figure is that when I first replaced the IAT I only unhooked the battery for a few minutes so maybe the code somehow stayed in memory, so this time I unhooked the battery for over half an hour to be safe. The only other thing that I can think is maybe I had/have a short in one of the wires and I might get the CEL again if it gets jiggled while driving. Anyways just wanted to say thanks for all the help.

 

hi guys

i have a 2004 f150 i also have the po113 code.

i do not know where the iat sensor is located to check it.

can you help.

 

Hi and welcome to FTE.

We have a forum just for you and your '04:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/f...splay.php?f=24

Those guys can help you out best.