This is killing me. 89 BII 2.9 5sp 4x4 EFI.
Radiator is loosing coolant. No signs in oil. Changed cap. Acts like it is overheating but temp gauge says no until significant coolant loss. Resivoir goes dry and rad is down a good bit. When run for 15 mins or so steady speed it backfires through the air cleaner and power dissapears. Oh and petcock doesn't do anything.
Have changed plugs, wires, rotor, cap, distributor, TFI and pick up, coil, oil pressure switch to oil pressure sending unit, thermostat, o2 sensor, gutted exhaust, cleaned throttle body, TPS, fuel pressure regulator, and have looked for leaks in vaccume lines and around the intake manifold. (doesn't mean I didn't miss something) Am going for a new coolant temp sensor tomorrow and will price a new water pump just in case.
This is what it is doing in detail. Starts great, pulls out fine, then after about 15-20 mins depending on how it is driven will loose all power, exhaust sound goes from a rumble to a very loud like humming sound. Changing positions on the gas pedal doesn't change the problem, will sometimes correct for a minute or two then does it all over again. Today when I took it out started out great could even get 3500 rpm stopped for about 1/2 hr. got back in decided to try it on the freeway, was ok for about 5 mins then rpms started dropping, got real loud, and wound up limping down the side of the road for 7 miles only able to pull about 25 mph and no more than 2500 rpm. Temp gauge read cool. Could hear sputtering in the engine with the occasional pop even over the exhaust noise. I pray that gutting the cat takes care of some of it. However after reading the overheating post I worry that something is wrong in the cooling system that the gauge isn't picking up. Have tried what was on there except getting the rad pressure tested. Is it maybe still the cap? I got the one that said it was for this vehicle, do I need a different one for higher pressure? If so please tell me in detail so I can make sure I get the right one. I don't trust the guys at the parts store any more than I do the mechanics in the shops. Like the ones that said the cats could not possibly be a culprit. Still having probs but getting rid of the cats made a HUGE diff. Sorry this is so long, its just like the list of probs with this truck.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 20-Sep-02 AT 05:28 PM (EST)]Okay Dawn,
I had the same deal....found out through a pressure test on my rad that i had a bad head gasket...it was blowing rad fluid back out of my radiator and into my res. tank then by the time it blew outta there from overflow and cooled back down and back into my rad it was then low. Took me three weeks to figure it out, including reman the rad, new hoses, and new waterpump. Shoulda went right to the gas station and had that check done, and saved all the other checks i wrote...lol. But anyway the best advice i can give is do a pressure check on that rad and pray it ain't them heads cause thats a bitch of a job, i know this already. But if they are not cracked or warped the whole job only costs about 300 bucks to redo them heads and replace gaskets and head bolts. GOOD LUCK

 

Dawn,
Just read your previous post with great dismay, that's exactly what my mini bronc did before i went through all the same. only dif was i cut my cats off all together and welded the exhaust together with my O2 sensor right before my new "test" pipe, i had that section cut off and welded back in then ran a single exhaust with a glass pack cherry bomb, and exited out just in front of rear wheel passenger side.(this keeps my exhaust from getting wet when slipping the boat in) but I think you'll find a head gasket problem is whats killin your power. Try that block seal it worked for me until i was able to get a set of heads from the wrecking yard and get them done Hope this helps.

 

Thank you Thank you Thank you,
Which sealer are you talking about, I have a jug of bars leak stuff that my husband picked up, not sure which one he got though. Its not the little cylindrical tube it comes in a jug. I would much rather be sure I am putting in what works. I don't normally like to put foreign materials in my vehicle if I can avoid it but will be a couple of weeks before I can get new heads.
Thanks for the "heads" up.

 

the stuff i used was silver colored and came from an Autozone about 6.99 a bottle make sure you get a prestone flush kit and flush out your rad really good, like 3 times, cause any anti-freeze will ruin this stuff. Follow the directions to the T and it will work, I waited an extra two weeks and probably could have gotton by without changing my gasket (had one leaking but the heads were fine) but went ahead and did a compression test and all was okay, rad test was good also.... well good luck finding the stuff and if i have to go to Autozone i'll look and see what it was and post it here for you...

Damquick

 

Thank you again, just got back from autozone got flush and K&W was the price you suggested and had the warning about the antifreeze. As the drain **** is stuck I will have to take the bottom rad hose off to drain it, hopefully after the flush goes through the drain **** will work, if you happen to read this tonight please tell me if you have to let the system dry out for a full 24 hours. I don't think I will have quite 24 hours from the time I finish tonight before I have to go pick up my kids, if I don't go anywhere tomorrow I can let it sit till about 6:30 and hopefully I can have this stuff in by 10pm or so, giving myself plenty of time to do the flushing. I will take it down next week sometime and have a pressure test run on it. I don't think I could have a totally blown head as it runs bad but not THAT bad. Wish me luck and if you pray please pray for me.
Thank you ever so much again.

 

Took me a little too long but finally got it done. Do you know that flushing a radiator without the air of the drain **** is a real pain in the toocas? Found there is definately a leak in the head gasket and it does run much better. I need to change the oil now because there is all kinds of this sealant stuff in the oil. Funny there was never anti-freeze in the oil. Have stopped loosing coolant. Still does the backfire thing through the air cleaner when I pounce on the gas pedle, so I don't. 0-50 in 4 mins or so isn't bad considering.
At least it will go 50 now. Tweaks it all to hades when I push it up to 3500 for shift as well. So... I don't do that either. Am going to adjust the timing and check the idle air control and recheck for leaks in the intake and hopefully come across what it takes to make it run right. It smells like gas sometimes now when it starts to act badly. Have appreciated all the help on here so far will appreciate any more I get as well. It gets lonely spending all your time alone under your truck. Thanks

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 25-Sep-02 AT 05:23 PM (EST)]Good for you Dawn, glad I could help. Now try replacing your TPS, or cleaning it up really good with some throttle body cleaner, and while your at it clean up your throttle body. Just make sure you use throttle body and intake cleaner and NOT carb cleaner as it will eat the seals up. Check the timing, dielectric grease all electrical contacts and plugs and check all vaccum lines. By the way, wait a couple days and flush her out again and maybe, just maybe that fuel smell will go away. I think it's caused by the sealer that stays in the system, I flushed mine about a week after and the smell went away....Good Luck
Damquick

 

Thanks again and update, Have replaced the TFI and gobs of other stuff am going to pull the plug on the TFI and throw some more grease in there as soon as I get home tomorrw. Am also going to give Chiltons a chance to prove its stuff with the vaccume lines and tracking them, if I get enough time this weekend I am going to pull the Throttle body off and maybe even the whole top of the intake thing and clean it really good. I think that the crud build up may be having a negative effect. Am going to test the idle air control etc.. It will run really well and then puke for a while so I don't think it is just the head gasket, as far as I have heard you can not seal one of those up by shutting the ignition off for a few seconds So far so good I still have a sense of humor, when that dies so will this truck....if I had a 12gauge....well I will post more when I get further on. Thanks again it really helps to have expert advice from someone who has gone through the same things.