Sometime during its abused life, the PO broke the bottom bolt housing that holds one of the three starter bolts on my 292. Seems to be part of the block casting. Is there any cure? I'd forgotton about it until my starter broke some teeth on the flywheel yesterday, but was rudely reminded when I took it out. My other question is that the same PO took out the engine, swapped it for a 302, then returned the 292 sometime prior to me buying it. I don't know what the front engine mount is supposed to look like, but I know it ain't supposed to be a square piece of half inch steel plate with a hole drilled in the back center. I think the original bolt is there; it holds the engine, but it's also sloppy. And lastly, for now, is it easier to pull the 4-speed tranny with the engine, or just the engine? I'm yanking it all out this winter to detail out the compartment, re-wire, etc. My dad used to chain up head bolts to pull engines out rather than using plates on the intake manifold. Is that preferrable? Thanks

 

If your front mount is exactlylike mine, it loks like a piece of channel steel with a rubber mount under it and a single bolt holding it to the frame.

Hope this helps

Bubba

 

the starter bolts are on the bell not the motor.its easier to pull the engine and leave the tranny in but in your case you will have to change the bell anyway so it might be easier to pull the whole thing.

 

drop the trans and then pull the engine. I believe that this is why they used to make the trucks this way: rear motor mounts on the engine were better for periodic clutch maintenance in the shop.

Taking off the top cover, dropping the trans on a floor jack, and then pulling the motor works best for me. Remember that the T98 is very heavy -- you won't wrestle it around by yourself like you would the 3sp.

I use a manifold bolt hole on each side with a grade 5 bolt. I don't reuse the bolts. A manifold puller is great stuff, tho.

 

[QUOTE=Daddywags]Sometime during its abused life, the PO broke the bottom bolt housing that holds one of the three starter bolts on my 292. Seems to be part of the block casting. Is there any cure? I'd forgotton about it until my starter broke some teeth on the flywheel yesterday, but was rudely reminded when I took it out. My other question is that the same PO took out the engine, swapped it for a 302, then returned the 292 sometime prior to me buying it. I don't know what the front engine mount is supposed to look like, but I know it ain't supposed to be a square piece of half inch steel plate with a hole drilled in the back center. I think the original bolt is there; it holds the engine, but it's also sloppy. And lastly, for now, is it easier to pull the 4-speed tranny with the engine, or just the engine? I'm yanking it all out this winter to detail out the compartment, re-wire, etc. My dad used to chain up head bolts to pull engines out rather than using plates on the intake manifold. Is that preferrable? Thanks[/QUOte


there is an easy fix, two ways realy,

Is a smller bolt and use use jb weld, or just use a bolt with white tape, o ue te strong blue hank lst forever......Janet

EdIT: I rememebeeed, it's the Locktipe ( and it will last forever)

 

Thanks for the responses - I'm still waiting for the starter. Looking forward to pulling the engine too. I thought of JB weld, but didn't hold much faith in it, although it is working pretty well for my turn signal switch.

 

Hi Daddywigs!, it's me janet. get you a bottle of the red locktight, and if you even can get a less than a i eight instertion, i guarantee you will hold!!! Trick is let it set for 30 hours, now if if were to use the blue locktight, they have to even weld those sickers off. That's your answer, i know i have worked around machine shops, and even big greaking wrenches to remove head bolts wont even get it to come to without the head of the bolt breaking off, so use the red type. It's called Locklite, and man oh man it works too!! and all y9u need is maybe 2 threads on a bolt to make it work...Janet

EDIT, by the way, a small half cup bottle of loctite will run from 25 dollars to 30 dollars, but it is a cure!!!!

 

I've used the blue locktite building orthotics & prosthetics. This was due to the blue being "breakable" for maintenance and repair. Red, I was told, was not used due to it being a permanent hold. Either way, it's a good call. But the problem is that the bottom bolt hole is completely broken off. So, I guess what you're saying is to patch it up with jb weld, tap a thread, and locktite a bolt in it? I can do that.

 

I just checked my toolbox, and I still have the blue tube. Thought I'd make sure I knew what I was talking about. Thanks!!!

 

[QUOTE=Daddywags]I've used the blue locktite building orthotics & prosthetics. This was due to the blue being "breakable" for maintenance and repair. Red, I was told, was not used due to it being a permanent hold. Either way, it's a good call. But the problem is that the bottom bolt hole is completely broken off. So, I guess what you're saying is to patch it up with jb weld, tap a thread, and locktite a bolt in it? I can do that.[/QUOTe

Yes you can do that, but it's the blue that locks forever, i would try the red instead, One time on a 1970 Buick with a 455 that has the bolts facing down for the starter, dont laugh but it worked, i got me a real good pair of vice grips and used a cheater on the end and that was good and never gave me no problem at all. Janet It diesnt come in a tube though, it comes in a bottle and is thin as water, and it cost at least 28 dollars, but it does the job. the plastic bottle will be oval in shape, and the real stuff wont be cheaper than 28 dollars, but it works!!!

Or heres another way, just put the two bolts on that are okay, drive it to a machine shop, they will pull hat starter off for you, and drill that hole out, and retap it for a slighly larger bolt, and no more than around 60 bucks, you dont need to pull that engine out like the other people are telling you, that's ridiculous....Janet

Even though my advice is right for you, i had forgotten your saying some flywhel teeth were damaged, if you dont want trouble with your starter bendix an gear, if those teeth are messed up on that flywheel, for your own good pull that tranny and change that flywheel....janet

 

Actually, the part about yanking out the engine was that I'm going to do it anyway to detail out the compartment. Just thought I'd get some comments on the best way to hook up the chain to engine. I'll be doing the bolt repair with your ideas, Janet, thanks for everyone's replies. Gotta go salmon fishin' for now - truck will have to wait a couple days.

 

[QUOTE=Daddywags]I just checked my toolbox, and I still have the blue tube. Thought I'd make sure I knew what I was talking about. Thanks!!![/QUOTe

Hey dadywags, i even know another way ypu can do the job, ( still though if your flywheel teeth ARE BAD, I WOULS CHANGE THAT FLYWHEEL)...If that outer metal that holds the bolt on is broke off..Just drill the hole out big without threads, then have a strong nut welded to the back side, Then just tighten a strong fine thread bolt through your nut tht is welded to the back of that bell housing. But where i missed the issue on this deal, is i didn't notice where you mentioned you had bad flywheel teeth, by golly, change that flywheel.....janet


EDIT, i still canot see a reason to pull your engine though, just use a floor jack and a board, to hold the oil pan up tp pull that tranny bell housing

 

Well, got my starter in today. Also put in a new solenoid, and cleaned all terminals. Starter wants to to run with the engine, as if the key was still on "start" position. So I tested the igniton switch from the switch to the solenoid. Found that after I release the key from "start" to "run" positions, my test light stays on until I jiggle the key; then it will go out. SO, assuming that means a bad ignition switch, I went to the local parts store to purchase a new one. I found out that my switch is a lot different than theirs. Theirs has a plug to for the wires to plug into. Mine has about 6 wires coming out of the plastic housing, and a couple from plugs, or mabye screws. PO also has terminals attatched to the long screw in the center back.

 

I would get with Ford motor company and order the original one, but i think your problem is that solenoid....Janet