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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 07:46 AM
  #1  
Yukon's Avatar
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2 questions for the Guru's

I want to change gear lube in my truck(2000 F250 w/373 gears), any brand recommendations? Also, in the future I am going to be installing a chip in my truck and was talking to a fellow PSD owner. He said that I should not tow with a chip unless I get my exhuast done because the turbo could get too hot(1200 degree's) and burn up. I tow a 6500# travel trailer right now, but will be into a 10,000# fifth wheel next year. Is this a true statement?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 08:29 AM
  #2  
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I am far from a Guru but I'll share what I know. As for your gear oil use a good synthetic like mobil 1, amsoil, redline and you should be fine.

As for chipping your truck, yes you should install a exhaust to lower the EGT's. Ultimately you should install an intake system, an exhaust system and a set of gauges. If you do some shopping on the web many sites are offering package deals where you get the exhaust, intake and tuner all for one price.

Hope this helps
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 08:31 AM
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As for the chip, yes your friend is correct. To be safe, you have to "prep" your truck for a chip. Replace your old air intake with something bigger, most commonly an open element filter, upgrade your exhaust, tranny upgrade (sonnax valve and tricumulator springs) and gauges (pyro, tranny temp and boost) to monitor your truck. Once all that is done, go ahead and get a chip. It sounds like a lot to do for a chip, but it is all worth it!
As to your oil question, I'm sure others will pitch in what they know, I don't remember what the shop put in my truck.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 08:36 AM
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If you do a search on the subject you will find 1000's of messages about it. All of them basically say that you need to get guages to monitor EGT, Boost and Transmission temperature. Then get big exhaust, and intake, and beef up the transmission if you have an automatic. Only then is it safe to add power. To do so otherwise makes for big $$$ repair bills.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 08:38 AM
  #5  
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Wow, you two got in before me as I was typing. Any more doubts Yukon? And welcome to FTE!
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 11:02 AM
  #6  
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Wow, I don't know that I want/need to go through all that. The truck is of course plenty strong, just would like it to be a little quicker. What kind of expense would I be looking at?
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 11:15 AM
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Here's an idea of what a package might cost you, shop around of course. You still need to add gauges and beef the trans.
http://www.shopdiesel.com/index.cfm/...uct_id/577.htm
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 11:48 AM
  #8  
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Yes you can do everythign that everyone is telling you. I'd agree and tell you to do the same things. Get the 4" downpipe and do the 4" all the way back. Do a new intake (K&N or whatever). However. They do make chips that come with stage settings. I know a few people that have these chips and haven't done anything else to their trucks including guages (which they should do!). Its said that you shouldn't make the chip boost your HP over 85-100 if you don't have the downpipe and stuff done for the exact reason you buddy said. However, if your only looking for a little now you should be able to get a chip like that, set it at the 65ish setting and run with it for a while. Now I wouldn't just stop there. I'd go ahead and do everythign else that everyone else says you should, you'll be VERY happy if you do. But that way you can get that extra HP out of your truck you want for now, and you can save for everything else... Just my 2 cents...



D
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 12:03 PM
  #9  
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No matter what get the gauges first,they are as good as free compared to the price of what you can/will brake with out them pulling a 10,000 lb trailer with a chipped truck.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 12:14 PM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by eckart
No matter what get the gauges first,they are as good as free compared to the price of what you can/will brake with out them pulling a 10,000 lb trailer with a chipped truck.
Oh, don't get me wrong. I'd agree 100%
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 02:41 PM
  #11  
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Yukon- if you do not plan on going to far in mods with the truck, just want some more safe performance without breaking the bank, look at my post of 15.2 1/4 for under 500. Figure another 300 for gages, which MUST be done first.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 08:36 PM
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I was just thinking, a real cheap and fairly easy mod is the 10k mod. Here is the link that gives good directions on how to do it. It'll cost less than $1.00, claims 30hp, I think maybe closer to 15-20hp. But you do notice a difference.

http://65.121.190.196/mods/index.html
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 10:23 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by farmb0y
I was just thinking, a real cheap and fairly easy mod is the 10k mod. Here is the link that gives good directions on how to do it. It'll cost less than $1.00, claims 30hp, I think maybe closer to 15-20hp. But you do notice a difference.

http://65.121.190.196/mods/index.html
I've got the dyno sheets. 193hp 380tq stock, and 234hp, 480tq with the 10k mod. thats a 40hp increase, but even Im not that optomistic. Drop that 10k down to about 3.9k, or do the modified diode-clamp 10k mod and you could prolly get into the 50hp increase range for less than 5 bucks. Tie into your Engine Oil Temp sensor and you can play with your timing too!

Lots of little tricks you can do to these 7.3 motors that just dont get talked about. everyone just buys the 200 dollar or more chip or tuner.

you get a pretty rough idle with the lower value resistors. the diode-clamp has a wicked EGT climb tho. dont run it without a pyro gauge.
 
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Old Sep 22, 2004 | 10:30 PM
  #14  
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Well that's good to hear that the 10K mod is at least what it claims to be. It doesn't feel like a huge improvement, and makes your idle a little rough, for for less than $1.00, you can't go wrong. I was able to feel that it was a little quicker, better throttle response I thought. And if you don't want to go through all the trouble of gauges and everything, the 10k is pretty safe to work with.
 
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Old Sep 23, 2004 | 06:21 AM
  #15  
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I think I might try the 10k mod. I like the idea of putting a switch in-line to turn it off if I wanted to when I am pulling the trailer-just to be safe. Does the turbo get as hot as with a chip or could I pull the trailer with no worries. Where do I get a resistor, Radio Shack???
 
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